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Losing coolant at COP Assembly engine runs good

First time . I already had battery replaced. Lights comes on but vehicle will not start.

Losing Coolant at COP assemply, engine runs fine

Difficulty getting into first gear, clutch has been replaced but situation getting worse, sometimes I have to push it hard to get into gear.

I have a whistle noise at 1750 rpms while driving i cold weather. Goes away when decelerating. Cannot hear in warm weather

when i turn the truck on and it stays on skid control-

first time

no matter what direction i put the control switch in the air always blows through the dash vents.

repeat misfire after replacing coil packs and spark plug

Recently this has gotten worse but when driving at lower speeds every once in a while I hear a loud Grinding squeeling gear sounding noise out of the Driver Sid Wheel. At first I thought it maybe Ice built up or debris between rim and rotor, after I checked it out the noise went away. Scare Tactic in my book however today it rose it's ugly face again and probably did this 10 times todays and suprisingly the only solution to make it shut up was to turn the 4 Wheel Drive on and off in the same motion. I can't help but wonder if this has to do with my Drive shaft. What do you think and what pricing are we looking at? Hopefully my Warranty is still valid. Thanks.

Truck runs fine on the rear tank. Is there a fuel pump in each tank? I can hear the pump when the ignition switch is switched on and the rear tank is selected. I can't hear it when the front tank is selected. The front tank has fuel and the engine will die if I select the front tank with the engine running.

Truck runs fine on the rear tank. Is there a fuel pump in each tank? I can hear the pump when the ignition switch is switched on and the rear tank is selected. I can't hear it when the front tank is selected. The front tank has fuel and the engine will die if I select the front tank with the engine running.

My 1990 Ford F150 rear differential locks up in drive and reverse and is leaking fluid. Does anyone know what is causing this and how to fix it?

I have a vibration in my steering wheel and NTB said it is the lower ball joints. 4x4 has 105,000 miles. The tires are fine, no wear.
If this is so should I replace all ball joints upper & lower and tie rods. What else while I have the front axle off?

again, why is the ford escape not an option for model

The heater on my truck will only blow air when on high, and then not even as much as should be. On all other settings it will not blow. The air is warm but just not blowing.

light around radio come on every 30 seconds even when the truck and radio is shut off

Where is the cabin air filter located and how do I change it?

is there a shutdown speed built into the ecm

my 1988 f-150 PU. failed inspection due to an exhaust leak at the manifold pipe connection. would it be right to cut the pipe get a new piece and add a donut gasket,or squeeze in epoxy to seal the leak. this is the only thing stopping me from a valid inspection. ( nothing else wrong ) granted in the future the manifold will have to be changed. thank you.

always while engine is running constant rythum.

i have changed the fuel filter and plugwires and still is the same

I first noticed my temp guage going nnear the high and remaining there, Then it woud come down and fluate depending on my speed. One the the built broke. I replaced the belt and the tension wheel because it also looked damage and the whole thing over heated. two weks later the same thing happened again, only this time the belt broke, the 10.5.1 grade 8 bolt broke that bolts/holds the casing that houses the alternator up against the block. I again replaced everything and bought a new idle pully wheel as well. along with a new thermostat and radiator cap and the darn truck seems to be over heating ( the guage needle is near the hot line after the truck is on and running a few moments over 50 miles an hour) I dont know what else could be the problem and im afraid of a major break down or accident as i use this to commute to work, please help. Thanks.

recently my truck has begun to shudder hard then shut off when slowing coming to a stop. in my mind it has to be a brake problem, until a friend told me i have no back=up lights when backing.it shifts fine while driving, but sometimes shifts extremely hard. also will always shut off when put in reverse. i have not gotten any diagnostic test done yet, my friends tell me it"s either a bad tourqe converter, or a bad neutral saftey switch. all i know how to do is change the oil! please help!

my oil pressure bottoms out after the engine reaches operating temperature. no one thinks the pump is bad, and i changed the oil and filter. what could be causing this?

1984 ford pickup... headlights and inside dome lights flicker and blink when truck is running. When I turn off truck and try to crank it again truck will not crank up. When i wait 2 minutes it cranks right up. had battery, starter and alternator checked all ok. gauge needle shakes at midway point and will not move down when switch is turned off.

is there a way to clear

heater is on and starts blowing cold and temp gauge goes hot,turn off control to heat/air,temp goes back normal.can turn back on and works fine untill next time

I have a bad wiring harness connector to the alternator,and need a new connector kit, what kit do i get? and where can i find it? this is a known problem with this year of ford f150.. and i dont want to install another one that is bad. already had 1 fire and is now trying to start a second ....help!

I am getting my PCV Hose replaced in my 2003 F-150 and being charged $100. They said it is really hard to get to and would take them about an hour and a half to get it done. Since I am a returning customer he said he would just charge me $100 if I paid in cash. Is the hose, in fact, that hard to get to? Does this sounds reasonable?