My family and I made a trip to the lake and on our way home the ac would stop blowing when i accelerated, also noticed the rpm gauge reading was unusually high and my gas milage went from 17.6 to 16.5.

Hi, I have a problem with my passenger door. The problem first started several weeks ago. (and yes I wish I had fixed it then) My son was having a hard time opening it from the outside, so I would open it from the inside, and apparently I pulled a bit too hard, and it came off from whatever mechanism holds it in place. It was hard to open. Now the handle on the inside is dangling, and of course it won't open. Is it possible to do the repair myself? Is there someplace online I can learn to do this type of repair? Thank you very much.


I am wanting to install newer updated headlight and corner light assembly. Anyone know how to do this?

About a month ago, I started to get a shaking in this vehicle while under braking. While driving, the car is OK, and the steering wheel doesn't shake while braking, we feel it more in the pedal (no, not ABS feel). Without having taken the wheels off, I assumed it was front rotors (have owned the car for 5 years and never done brake work on it, figured it was time...) so got those and replaced them along with the pads and while the problem seems a little better, we still feel it. I haven't taken the wheels off the back yet but looking through the spokes, the pads look like they have decent material left and I don't see any abnormal scoring on the discs (though there's some non-uniform rust).

Again, we mostly feel it in the pedal, a kind of thumpa-thummpa-thumpa, and neither my wife nor I can come to a conclusion as to whether we feel it coming from the front or the back, though we both initially felt it was the front before those discs were replaced.

Since I'm not sure my visual inspection will be sufficient, are there any other causes for something like this (wheel bearings, worn suspension) or should I just go ahead and replace the rear discs and pads?

How can I fix my driver side third row seat? The motor runs when I press the button but the threaded screw does not turn.

The a/c will work then stops blowing cold for a while and then may start again. I noticed yesterday that the fan belt suddenly stopped spinning but the pullys continued turning. I wonder if the compressor is starting to fail. The fan belt is not loose. The idel pully still has strong tension

how many gallons does gas tank hold

My seatbelt indicator will continually chime every couple of minutes even thoug I am buckled up as well as every other passenger in the car. Is there a "safe" way to disable it without taking the dash apart? Or is there a way to clean the sensor inside the seatbelt connector so it reads that the belt is buckled?

i was driving every thing was good but when i stop for about 15mins she would not start again..i put a new battery,an starter but still nothing.its makes a clicking but its one "click" some help plz

This only happened for the first time today. Previously, a couple fo times I found it difficult to switch from Park to Reverse, I let it idle for a few seconds, then it went into reverse fine. Now, it simply slips when I put it into reverse. I saw there is an open investigation into this problem, which sounds like it could be the first issue, but not necessarily the second. http://www.carcomplaints.com/Ford/Explorer/2005/investigations.shtml
Any advice would be most appreciated. I know I need to take it in, but if I have an idea of what to expect before I get there, it will save me the surprise of being told I need to rebuild my transmission. I just lost my job so the timing isn't great. Thank You in advance!!!! Just saw this one, too.
Sry, I'm a mechanically challenged girl so I apologize in advance for any irrelevant info I gave or if I didn't give enough relevant info. Thanks again!

Where is the 2002 Ford Explorer orifice tube for the Air Conditioner?

Both the front and back door (Drivers side)on my 1992 Ford Explorer will only open from the inside of the vehicle. If you pull on the outside handles of either door nothing happens. It doesn't feel as though its locked and I did try using the door key but that didn't work. What things or steps should I try to find what might be causing this?

He said he heard noise in the back and put the car on a lift. The car has over 75,000 and he needs to replace rear wheel bearings on one wheel. The other three are not bad enough to need repalcement. Is this legit or am I being taken for a ride?

This problem causes the vehicle to drive at 35-40 mph without using the gas peddle, Also the brakes kick back upon applyiny the brake. Is there any fixes for these problems?

all i know is they put a trany in and it started up and iddled out , thin it stalled and wouldnt start, there is no spark ,enen after changing the crank sensor, and coil pack,the ecm is next unless some body out there has a good idea for me

heard big bang 2 years ago now trans has only reverse

1998 ford explorer 4.0 sohc Woke up this am and went to start the car. turns over real quick but won't start. Checked for spark and it's there. Checked fuel pressure off the rail and fuel pressure and it is at 44 psi. Hooked up computer and all is ok except one O2 sensor is starting to go bad. Is it my fuel pressure? or coil pack going?

Has been making this noise for some time

My wife recently took our explorer on a 600 mile trip one way. The truck has about 180,000 miles now. Radiator has always had a slow leak but we kept it full. Halfway to her destination she ran it hot and it shut off, after it cooled it would run but missfire. I think it would be a blown head gasket, that engine's heads i've been told are gt40 heads, am i barking up the wrong tree or am i on the right track?

My 2002 Explorer has approx. 160k miles and in general is in good running condition. Very recently the "Hi Temp / Low Oil" warning light has come on. This has happened 2 times. Only when driving after the car is warm. Each time the "Hi Temp / Low Oil" ligt came on, the Oil Pressure Gauge needle also dropped. The warning light and gauge fluctuation were only momentary, lasting only 1-2 seconds, but at that time the engine seem to stall a bit. The first time, I checked the oil level which was low, and I added oil to the proper level. The second time was very soon after an oil change had been done. I checked the oil level, but the level was correct. I have not talked to a mechanic about this yet.

The Explorer is making a loud noise when running, louder when you press the accelerator. The coolant/anti freeze needs to be topped up but there is no obvious leak.


Is this estimate for replacing one or two lower ball joints?


When blinker was on it went off and smoke came out of the emergency blinker switch on the steering column. What's wrong, how much should it cost. Thanks.

When my blinker was on, all of a sudden it went off and smoke came out of the emergency blinker switch on the steering column. What to do and how much should it cost.

we were having major jack-hammer noise with my explorer and we removed the front driveshaft. now no more noise but i am concerned about the safety and damage it is going to do if i drive it as a two wheel drive, untill i can fix issue with driveshaft

thanks for your help,


When i turn the a/c on it makes a noise and keeps making it until I turn the a/c off.

How to get a transmission pan out of a 1999 ford explorer.

Looking for the location of the fuel filter.