Ford Explorer Sport Trac QuestionsRefine by vehicle
replaced motor nothing all fuses and relays are good got 12 volts at motor any help greatly appreciated thanks
The engine runs great and no engine codes.
It will stall when you step on the brakes but not all the time .seems to do it more when you step on the brakes hard.
And did it once when I stepped on the brakes to shift out of park. Could this be a vacuum leak?
I can drive about 50 miles in the city and burn a 1/4 of a tank of gas. Great power and speed. Sometimes I think I have a ges leak(no smell), or it is evaporating from the fuel tank. What do you think?
I replace the spark plugs, a injector, I put a noid light to the injector and is firing and the spark plug wire Is firing and I run a compression test and is over 120 psi.i don't know what else to do. I need help thanks.
car just stopped running at a red light. tried to crank it back up but nothing happened. but i still had power for the radio and lights. the shop its at is saying its a main computer problem and wants to charge me 600-750$ for it. i just wanted to make sure that was the problem and there not just trying to hassle me or anything. all the help would be great thanks.
Occasionally when I start my 2003 Sport Trac 4x4 , it misses and shudders and sometime dies. It does not do this all the time though. It just started this recently and it has been Cold out. After it is warmed up , it does not do it.
How do I stop crooks from taking off with my car using the lost keys? How do I change the key code, ignition, locks so the crooks can't use the lost keys?
This problem just started this evening. The engine light flashes and the engine shakes hard while in drive.
I had it checked by auto parts store. guy said it was charging fine.
Also when on lift the front right wheel moves top to bottom and side to side while the others do not!
When I hit a bump they go off
I had the AC Condenser & Dryer replaced after a rock was thrown up and hit the condenser. Two weeks after the repair I turn on the defroster and notice white smoke billowing out of my tail pipe. Turned defroster off - smoke stopped. Turned AC on smoke started. Turned AC off and put heat on - smoke stopped. Vehicle does not heat up and the engine runs fine.
My OD / OFF light had been flashing for a couple weeks, I noticed hard shifting when it was. I had to be towed home. The next morning all seemed ok, good torque reverse and forward, then it slipped away after warming up. I wound up pulling transmission fuse under the hood and reinstalling it, I had forward and reverse again but it shortly slipped away. Could this be an electronic problem?
Repeated trys on-off, and inserting/removing key quickly many times. Original key. Not a battery issue. Eventually will crank over and start immediately. No warning lights on when running. Drives fine. Suspect ignition switch as car starts immediately sometimes and sometimes not.
Earlier this week it started after a number of tries and kind of shook when it started then settled down. I started it this afternoon pretty easily , but it wouldn't start this evening. Turns over' but no ignition. I'm thinking the fuel pump may be the issue. Your thoughts please.
Cranks but refuses to start. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, 02 sensors, new plugs & wires, crank position sensor and computer. Driving down the road and it just stops and refuses to restart. Prior to computer replacement it would stall and restart an hour or so later. This time it stalled and refuses to start.
vehicle did not come with that item, is the parts or after market item available for purchase..... From whom
The heater is on and blows cold air at different times.
first, your sign-up does not accept Guam Zip Codes. check on that, please.
The local Ford dealer says the PCM needs replaced because it does not hold programming. They quoted us $1400. When I Googled the part I found O'Reilly's has a refurbished one for about $300. Am I being duped?
When I first brought it to the repair shop (it wouldn't start, and jumping the started solenoid didn't do it), they reprogrammed the PCM because it didn't recognize my key. $323 later, I drove it home, but the next morning same problem. A call to the dealer got them to pay for towing, but I was warned that I would have to reimburse them if the fault wasn't theirs. So prior to having it towed,I replaced the battery, which was needed. Now they are saying that the PCM is bad.
Is there a way that a backyard mechanic can r & r the PCM, and then program it? Or is the programming proprietary? Should I go ahead and purchase a refurbished PCM and have them do it? Lastly, is the PCM a high-fail item? Any advice would be appreciated.
The smoke is thick white smoke and it smells like gas.
I have installed a new fuel pump, an IAV, a hose of some sort, and still not working properly. I now suggested to the mechanic to change the MAfS..the sensor..Someone suggested the ignition switch may be going bad.