Ford Explorer Sport Trac QuestionsRefine by vehicle
I removed the bulb at the rear and back fed 12v power to check all the wiring to the N/S switch and the same color wire at the switch gets hot however thats the only wire showing 12v at the N/S switch , there is none bringing power to the switch from the fuse / Power distrib.relay box, every thing else works as it should
happen in november 2014,march 2015 took it to the dealer he they find anything cause the wrenchlight was not on.put it in gear jerk forword,
My brights are stuck on. If I turn the light switch to on I can see the regular lights come on. When I turn the switch to off the brights stay on. And the bright indicator on the dash shows also.
I disconnected the headlight switch assembly and the lights stayed on.
66k miles. Outside temp 50-60 degrees.
any solution for that
Checked/swapped the fuses/relays but didn't fix the problem
When I turn on the ignition the interior light stays on until you wiggle the key in the ignition
This issue started about 3 aka. ago. I thought it was the brakes due to the sound no squeal just rubbing like the old drums so I did the front pads and rear shoes and hardware kit. Three yrs. ago I put rotors, calipers, ball joins, tie rods inner and outer. I put a new center link and and hardware kit in. I also toke it over the very next day and had a set of 4 BF Good Wrench all terrains $900.00 and had a four wheel alignment done the caliphers went in smooth so I don't think bad already I hook my snap on comp. up and no codes. Th
Truck quit driving down the road. Unhooked fuel line and ran off a 6 gallon boat can. Pumped the primer ball and truck started right up. Changed the fuel pump and now truck wont start. Electrical issues?
Hade to replaced 4 bearoings
Everything is locked up
Engine light flashing and burning oil
got this vehicle as a abandoned job from a friend. will turn over on a jump from a dodge piuckup (battery toast and haven't replaced it yet). i have spark, new plugs, correct gap, fuel on the rail, starter fluid in the intake and get an occasional back fire but nothing. Exhaust is disconnected at the first knuckle before the cat con so no clog issues. any thoughts
2001 Sport Trac is turning 200K. While getting the tires rotated at American/Discount Tire they showed me the right rear wheel play in and out (not up and down) while it was on the lift and all lug nuts secure. not other wheel did this, and if I had to estimate it was about an inch of play. (no noise whil driving). is this a bearing problem?
Also, other than a Transmission rebuild, oil and air filter changes, and the occasional fuel filter changes; we have not done anything else. However we are looking at doing the below, are these services needed?
Differential Flush Service
Fuel injector cleaner service
Spark plug change (last done at 100K)
Transfer Case fluid change if recommended (never done).
Any recomendations on the list and wheel?
took off all the tires and checked hubs tire does not move and hubs are tight filled all the fluids underneath the care
My gauge cluster turns off and on by itself. Sometimes I have no power in my power windows radio sunroof. And then all of a sudden they'll turn on as I'm driving down the road.then if I hit a bump they will turn off and won't come back on. If I slap the top of my dashboard every once in a while I get power back to all those items.is this just a gauge cluster problem or is it faulty wiring problem
locks keep locking while driving also, door ajar light stays on even though doors all closed
I Replaced my cruse control buttons and had to completely disconnect my battery. When we started it up again every thing worked fine. I'm now having an issue with my dash lights not staying lit. They flash on and off every 20 sec or so. Turn signal lights work. We hooked it up to check the computer and nothing shows up. Its been doing this for 150 miles with about 15 start ups
I have checked all doors & tailgate, they r closed, locks keep locking while driving, door ajar light comes on & off while driving, dome light won't shut off when lights on. Is there some kind of sensor for all these problems that need to b replaced? HELP Please!
No leaking when in park, or neutral, only when in gear. Still functions correctly, as long as fluid lasts. No associated noise
Thermostat housing cracked, causing overheat. Replaced housing, but still have antifreeze pushed into overflow tank, until antifreeze level in engine too low, then just air bubbling into tank. Antifreeze low in engine, but not causing over heat. Could this be caused by a cracked manifold as indicated as a problem by others?
Truck runs fine. except no interior heat unless at faster speed to cause increased circulation.
Is it computer I checked wires all tight and good
replaced motor nothing all fuses and relays are good got 12 volts at motor any help greatly appreciated thanks