Ford Excursion Questions
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I am fueling the vehicle and my miles to empty reading fluctuates by many miles in only a few hundred yards of actual driving. Can I reset by disconnecting battery or do I actually need service?
Engine looses power at any speed. Generally happens at a cruise but has happend durning acceleration. If you hold the accelerator at the same position the vehical will slow to almost a stop. engine RPM will almost be at idile. To recover simply release the accelerator re-apply power. The problem may reappear in a few seconds to months. It seems to be aggravated by heavy tow loads. Also the instant this power loss happens the glow plug indicater lamp comes on for just a second. all other guages and indicators are normal.
When I put A/C-Heat selector in "off" or "Max A/C" position, within a few minutes of running, the overheat gauge and light come on, indicating overheating. It is not overheating. Has been doing this since new. Original dealer (in Fla) removed thermostat to solve problem (unbeknownst to me). When I moved to colder climate, 3 yrs later I discovered thermo was missing and replaced...since then, problem is back. Two dealers have not found problem.
The truck will start but will turn off as soon as i release the pedal.
The Radio starts changing channels, AM/FM by itself and even goes to CD and back to radio without touching the display - I have replaced the radio and have the same issue. Seems like there is some sort of electrical disturbace - could it be a bad alternator, shorted wire? I have also had the enitre AC display go dark and be unrepsonsive at times as well - not bery often though.
What is the best way to replace the power steering pump on a Ford Excursion 2000 V 10? From the bottom? Any diagrams or instructions I can find? Thanks
where is the egr valve located on the engine?
I am considering buying a 2000 excursion. I've heard horror stories about the spark plugs blowing out of the 5.4 v-8.I'm a mechanic what can I do to prevent this from happening?
wont start!! jumped the post and battery is good. Running board lights work and no juice anywhere else except two little red lights on dash that are comming on when you open the drivers door. Also there is a humming noise comming from the dash as well. checked grounds and seem ok Any help?
the water in fuel light keeps coming on and i drained the fuel filter housing to replace the drain valve that was leaking. is there an external water/fuel seperator
at first it started off light now there is a heavy knocking.it all starteed when i put a low grade of gas in it. i ran all that gas out and put premium in it with some lucas octane booster and it still knock bad can any one help me
HAD THE HUB REPLACED AND NOW HAVE THE abs LIGHT COMING ON AND MALFUNSION
when applying the brakes going over 35mph the front end starts to shake
sometimes i can turn my truck off but the radio continues to play,Even when i open the door,Then it don't come on when i start the truck,this has happen maybe two to three times a mouth.
Had 2 front calipers replaced and brakes bled manually on vehicle with 189000k so I'm trying to figure out whether manually bleeding brakes could cause brake failure after
an emergency hard stop.Vehicle was driven over 200 miles since repairs and 6 days later. Could the master cylinder have been too old to handle an emergency stop after new calipers were replaced?
I have a 2001 Ford Excursion with a Triton V-10 engine. Runs great with the following exception. When the engine is warm, it becomes very hard to start. Starts great when cold, runs great all the time. I have replaced the plugs, the injectors, the fuel pressure regulator, the fuel pump (this was the start of the problem). It shows no codes when hooked to the reader. It doesn't like to start until the engine is COLD. Even after 2 hours of sitting, it is still hard to start. Any help would be appreciated.
I'm old school and when I looked for the sparks plugs I chould only find what appeared to be some kind electronic device close to the fuel rail. so the question is where and how do you change out the sprak plugs
Engine runs rough, doesn't seem to have full power, exhaust smells funny, and tail pipe is black.
Any way to check regulator?
Any other thoughts?
is it ok to drive with the selector in lock for the ford-excursion automatic hub locks
KNOCKIG SOUNDS LIKE LOOSE SHOCK ON RIGHTS SIDE WHEN I GO OVER BUMPS
will not accelerate
I hear the fan running and get air from the defrost vents but not the dash vents
crankshaft sensor location also camshaft sensor location
After pain stakingly tearing my excursion apart, it has come to my attention that there is a filter inside the line coming from the compressor. This thing gets clogged pretty easily and collects trash from the compressor letting you know that its almost time for a new compressor. You have to have a special tool to get to it, but it finally solved my problem and I wanted to share my results... Good luck and thanks to all who helped.
Where is the expansion valve located.. if it even has one?
what is the normal fuel pressure sometimes at 70 mph it hesitates it has 30 psi
When accelerating the car seems to skip/stutter. It used to only do it on the freeway once in a while. It is more frequent now. The check engine light is on constantly. My husband thinks it's fuel injectors. How can we know for sure? How many are there? By researching on-line, it looks like it's something he could do with little knowledge car repairs?
After narrowing down my A/C problem it has come to this: Either my accumulator or my evaporator. I replaced the accumulator, evacuated and recharged the system and still have the same issue. The evaporator the blower blows on is NOT getting cold. Does this thing clog or something? AM I MISSING SOMETHING??? God bless all of those who help... It will be returned ten fold...:)
If the rear A/C coil is getting freon (cold lines) but the front A/C coil does not get cold, does this mean my accumulator is bad? while the truck is running, I run the air and it blows ice cold from the rear, but not from the front. I have checked the blend door and it is fine (electronic servo and pleasantly easy to access). I removed the blower motor and squirrel cage and stuck my hand in and touched the coil and it was not cold. I am assuming the reason the rear is cold is because the split off is before the accumulator. I feel like I am really close....Any help???