1,531
questions

If my car sits over night I will attempt to start but it takes sometimes 3 tries so during the day if it sits for more than an hour it does the same.

Sometimes it idles out of control I have to turn off. Sometimes it will stop doing it sometimes it is worse. No one can figure it out. To me it seems like the gas pedal sticks. But was told it is not it.

Was driving down road and just died. Cranked over and started. Dove 1 mile and died. Bought new battery started, got it home. Replaced fuel pump, checked fuses, new plugs and wires and fuel shut off switch. New serpentine belt few months ago. Is there a relay somewhere I didn't check? How do I check power to fuel pump? Any suggestions would be helpful, thanks.

BTN shows parasitic draw, what is it and what does it power

it won't pass inspection. They clear the error and have to drive it 40 to 50 miles to clear other three monitors then message comes back

My clutch pedal has to go very close to the floor to shift

were are relays???

Manual transmission...Number 2 cylinder isn't firing. Timing belt was replaced prior to the problem with the #2 cylinder. It idles horribly and dies if foot isn't on gas. It happens everytime I drive it. Doesn't run very fast even with gas petal to the floor.
It improved once when I cleaned the engine....it ran fine for 15 minutes but that's it. The other two times were random and lasted for about 5 minutes.

Its important I get it done in time to get an test so I can get my plates

Radiator fluids been changed couple months ago and the fluids up to the full line. But my check coolant light keeps going on?

Took my car in cuz there no acceleration/stalling. Cadilidic converter and fuel coil where both replaced. Week later fuel coil craps out. Replaced a third time. 3 hours later that coil is a bust as well?? What is causing the coil to keep going bust. Or is it actually possible I gotten three new faulty parts in a row??

Switching motor

I engine light flashing indicating two cyclinders are not firing. Raw fuel being pushed through caddilidic converter. Destroying the converter. Had converter replaced along with fuel ignition coil. Week later after driving for 10 hours delivering pizza. Car engine light flashing again. Car won't run when giving it gas. Fuel ignition coil replaced again. Mechicanics said they other new one was bad. Once another new one put in. After 3 hours driving it engine light flashes again and car won't run right again. What would be causing the fuel ignition coil to keep getting fried??

Was driving and car lost power and came to a stop. I changed spark plugs, coil pack, starter. Checked alternator and have a brand new battery. Still no start. Also sprayed eather into the throttle body to see if it was the fuel pump

Cigarette Lighter doesn't work. If it's a fuse, could you tell me what number ??

Transmission started refusing to shift into High gear most of the time and it blew 2 quarts fluid out under the hood, but yesterday it shifted into high
Just fine.

So my ford escort will not turn over, I really don't know at this point what it could be I've checked the timing that's good✔ then I replace all 4 sparkplugs since 1 was looking pretty damaged I replaced them all and the coil pack, still not starting...yup so I figured I replace the ICM (ignition control module ) still no start,new battery was installed still not a complete start, what could it be??? This problem occurred when I drove my car home to (R.I) from Massachusetts...mind you I needed a oil change but drove it anyway as I got back I parked my car for a hour then at start it was running roughly and my friend decided to add a quart of oil after shutting down the vehicle for 10 minutes I tried starting it and that's when it didn't ever start again

My transmission suddenly started refusing to go into high gear. Automatic. When I stopped, it had lost 2 quarts of fluid, blown out under the hood, no leaks visible. The check engine light is always on since I bought it 4 months ago. 197,000 miles.
With a quick drive, dealer said tranny was shot. Should it be checked for something else before buying a new transmission? I have read about stopped up filters, etc. When it is supposed to shift to high gear, the engine rpm just revs, but it doesn't shift. This has all happened within a week. The fluid was clear before the loss of fluid, and full.

I've replaced the thermostat and checked the fan but it's still getting hot. What should I check ? It's not really losing any coolant and the coolant is clean . Could it be the water pump or my radiator ? I just got the car so I'm at a loss . The air does not work either

All the sudden it wouldn't start so we thought it was the alternator we replace the alternator we replace the battery now we think it's the solenoid starter for the car and I just needed to know if it was a single overhead or a dual overhead engine so I know what type of starter solenoid to get

I pulled over to park ,went to start it the next morning ,it started,I drove across the street but when I tried again to start it would not,the day before it was needing alot of water and overheating ,so we now have replaced the coil,has power but will not turn over ,please help

radiator fan not working

I had gotten my car looked at recently, and was told that the problem was my alternator. I bought a new one, put it in, and it's still taking a while to turn over. Sometimes, it will take so long to turnover, it turns on for a second and dies, but starts right up after I turn it over again. It's only done that a few times though. I don't know if any of this is linked but, my left blinker also randomly flashes quickly, but sometimes it doesn't.

The car runs well , everything works except the ac clutch. When I tun on the ac control the idle goes up and the fan starts. I have no other electrical problems. The ac worked fine one day and not at all the next day.

I have a 2000 Ford Escort ZX2. Recently, I noticed the car temp was
running a bit high. As I watched it while driving, the temp was slowly
climbing, especially during stop and go traffic. I figured out the fan wasn't
coming on, and replaced the Temp Gauge Sensor and the ECT Sensor.
After doing this, the fan comes on, but the car still runs hotter than normal.
When I start my car, the temp is at about 45% of the temperature gauge;
however, when I start driving, the temp climbs to about 65-75% of the temp
gauge but no higher. When I stop at a light or something, the temp drops
back down to about 50% (depending on how long I stop), and when I drive
again, it climbs back up to 65-75% of the way.

After switching one or both sensors, the check engine light came on with a
code of P0117...dealing with the ECT sensor having low voltage due to high
temperatures. I am unsure of what the problem is at this point. I can not
imagine why the car is running hot, but not increasing forever. It only
increases to about 65-75% of thew way. When I first turn on my car, it
jumps immediately to about halfway too, shouldn't it slowly be warming up
to that?

Any thoughts?

its getting gas and fire and it turns over reely good

its geting spark and gas and it turns over good

Car has set for a while put new battery in making humming noise won't start

Like I put a new head lights,park lights,tail lights, and brake lights in it after putting a new battery in it n it blew all the light n it still won't hold charge or nothing..What can be causing all of this?