Ford Escape Questions
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I smell the burning smell through my vents when i stop my car. And now the engine is idleing slightly high and rough.
when starting my car in the morning it tahes about 5 time to start and it has to warm up.i had the airflow meter change at the ford dear and it still takes time to start was told to change the ega
My 2007 Ford Escape is hard to start when humidity is high. Cranks for a long while. I turn it off then on, starts OK. Once started, starts fine the rest of the day. No problem in dry weather, hot or cold. Battery has been tested and it's strong.
My vehicle went to a car shop last week and received an installation of two replacement calipers with two new front disc brakes, as well as resurfaced front discs. Days later, I began to have brake failure when applying the brake along with dash lights intermittently and spontaneous flashing 'ABS' and 'traction control' warning lights. When I brought it back to the car shop, they told me that it's due to a broken ABS module. I asked if this is related to their previous brake work and they said it absolutely did not. Is this true?
Car was running great prior to this. Now it's spitting and sputtering and acts like it's not getting gas. This happened once before in March 2011 and after driving for a couple of days car ran perfect again and check engine light went off. Weather was cold while car sat at airport. What could this be?
The radiator fan turns on as soon as the car is turned on and the battery light flashes about once every 15 to 20 minutes.
Approx. 1qt every 500 miles.
My 05 ford escape has been running really high rpms while in park. If I sit in park the rpms will go up over 4 and it makes a loud humming sound like when you accelerate quickly while driving. Yesterday was the first time it did this while driving rather than parked; it was like driving with cruise control on that kept getting faster. I did not even have to touch the accelerator because the rpms were running so high that it was just going. I had to be on the brake the entire time, and when I had to come to a complete stop it was hard to do so. This past spring I had new plugs and wires put in because I had a cylinder misfire. I asked my mechanic back home and he said possibly the idle air controls or a vacuum leak, but I don't hear a hissing sound like a vacuum leak would have? I'm worried mainly because I don't know if this is safe to drive or not. I can't get into my regular mechanic for a while, and I know going to the local Ford dealer will be much more expensive. Any ideas?
Items replaced to date, manifold cover, 3rd cat by muffler, spark plugs, injectors, down streem O2 sensor, fuel filter, air filter. Last code was 0136 the DS O2 sensor and 0 since install. Car continues to stumble at 30 mph. Can the 2 cats on the exshaust manifold be causing this. 2 mechanics have tried to fix I'm a friend, guess I must be last resort.
have 2 week old battery car will not stay on in low idle only when you push gas to go faster
The front door is loose and drops a little when opening. I can't find access to the bolts to tighten it. Do you actually have to remove the front fender to access the bolts?
AAMCO did a diagnosis and says the whole transmission needs rebuilt. They say without know the parts that need replaced they couldn't give me an exact estimate. Was told approximately $1600-$2100. What do you guys think?
02 escape 6cyc 2wheel Dr egr keeps blowing a hole in it they say its they BAck converter by back they mean behind engine or very back
Has begun dripping small amount of oil every other day about the size of a dime. Looks like coming from oil pan grate but can't fully tell. Mechanic had up on lift a month ago during oil change and states he cannot find any drip whatsoever. Drip still there. Any advice on what to do to identify what it is based on other people's experiences? Ford dealership thinks rear main seal. Car has 90K now. Thanks!
I'm thinking there is a single problem causing the two codes
While changing gears, I notied the shift was very loose, then tring to get it back in park it locked up in reverse and won't budge.
My care shuts off when I'm slowing down or if I give gas, and maybe not drive as fast, like maybe I hit the gas peddle too hard for the speed that I'm driving...I don't know.
we've changed the spark plugs, the fuel filter, air filter, oil filter. I know the O2 sensors and cat could be a problem but what is the next thing that is likely to be the problem? I have 2 wks to get this fixed to get through DEQ.
it has 101000 miles.
we changed the alternator and the tensioner pully and it still does it we are stumped on what it could be......
my belt broke so i dont know the routing diagram
Today August 22nd three windows suddenly stopped working The drivers window is still operational.
The problem is the radio stays on even with the keys out of the ignition, the batter drains but if I remove the fuse for the radio the car is fine.
Light came on suddenly and the vehicle seems to not shift properly
i taken the to advance auto parts and put the comp on it he told me is the oxgen sesor is bad need to replace all four do the car has four or one
do i need to bleed the system where i start to bleed from the rear right or from the left rear
Very noisy, like the muffler has a hole in it. Engine light is on.
My person who changed my oil said it wasn't a fuse, relay or freon problem so it must be an electrical problem. Could this be because I recently had a new battery installed? What type of money are we talking to fix an electrical problem associated with the air conditioner?
Problem started a year ago with an intermittent check engine light. Rough idle after being run for a while and then restarted, also lacks power at times.
Light gets brighter during acceleration. Voltage on battery while running is 14.2 volts, even with all accesories on, so assume regulator is working.Belt tension seems ok, no loose connections, battery cables good. Last few days, gauges will drop out, at night cluster lights go out, engine will hesitate slightly day or night. This alternator was new NAPA brand and took 2 days for me to install, could it have a bad diode? I don't trust the auto store checks because last year it recorded no problems with altenator even when regulator was bad and voltage would drop with each accessory turned on. I have read quite a few threads on this and everyone had a different answer. NAPA part has lifetime warranty, but dread the change again.