1,020
questions

Replaced Throttle sensor but light is still on. What next?

I have a flickering oil light on the dash panel. It is not on always but flickers randomly. I suspect a bad sensor...

it just started and i really need some assistance asap.

bulbs, fuses, ok. changed switch on transmission, still no lights. is there a relay or another switch???

No warning no rough idle no bucking or hesitation. It will restart when I shift to neutral than it will do it again. The car will run fine for a couple weeks than do it again. What do you think. No codes or service engine light.
Thanks

I need to know if that is true.

preesure hose is leaking bad

the pressure line is leaking

Also, Ford refers to them as BULBs. Are we talking about the entire unit?

I have no problems getting my car to crank, but once I let off the gas it dies. The engine light is on but I'm not sure what the problem is.

Can I swap the COPs from a 01 Escape 3.0 and replace them with the COPs from a 01 Mustang 4.6?

After blowing out 2 EGR valves and following recommendations that it was a plugged Cat (Catalytic Converter) I finally after much ado got the Cat right behind the flex pipe off and a bunch of gray matter (not like the stuff inside your skull) came out of the Cat. looked like honeycmb but was in small chunks and some of the chunks looked like they were melted so I guess I found my back pressure/blown EGR valve problem. Looks to me like there's another (much larger) Cat about 2 feet behind that one between the 1st Cat and the muffler (which is way back at the rear of the car). Guess I'll pull that one to to see of more gray junk falls out. Have a good picture of the gray stuff but don't know how to post it here.

how much will that cost approx?

how much will that cost approx?

I believe it's a plugged CAT but my question...is there a way to know which CAT is plugged?

Replacing sensor on the power steering pump. Could use diagram of the pump. Can not find sensor.It is a 4 cylinder, 2 wheel drive, manual transmission.

valves rattle & no power to pass

I have everything off but the driveaxle. Im not sure how to break it loose. In the manual it says to carefully pry it off with a pry bar or large screwdriver, but it seems like there is something else holding it to the intermediate shaft.

The reason for this is someone spilled some coke over it. How do i take the cover off to clean the shiftier?

Air conditioner stopped blowing cold air; only bows warm air. Car has 125,000 miles. Air conditioner has never had any problems until now.

I smell the burning smell through my vents when i stop my car. And now the engine is idleing slightly high and rough.

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when starting my car in the morning it tahes about 5 time to start and it has to warm up.i had the airflow meter change at the ford dear and it still takes time to start was told to change the ega

My 2007 Ford Escape is hard to start when humidity is high. Cranks for a long while. I turn it off then on, starts OK. Once started, starts fine the rest of the day. No problem in dry weather, hot or cold. Battery has been tested and it's strong.

My vehicle went to a car shop last week and received an installation of two replacement calipers with two new front disc brakes, as well as resurfaced front discs. Days later, I began to have brake failure when applying the brake along with dash lights intermittently and spontaneous flashing 'ABS' and 'traction control' warning lights. When I brought it back to the car shop, they told me that it's due to a broken ABS module. I asked if this is related to their previous brake work and they said it absolutely did not. Is this true?

Car was running great prior to this. Now it's spitting and sputtering and acts like it's not getting gas. This happened once before in March 2011 and after driving for a couple of days car ran perfect again and check engine light went off. Weather was cold while car sat at airport. What could this be?

The radiator fan turns on as soon as the car is turned on and the battery light flashes about once every 15 to 20 minutes.

Approx. 1qt every 500 miles.

My 05 ford escape has been running really high rpms while in park. If I sit in park the rpms will go up over 4 and it makes a loud humming sound like when you accelerate quickly while driving. Yesterday was the first time it did this while driving rather than parked; it was like driving with cruise control on that kept getting faster. I did not even have to touch the accelerator because the rpms were running so high that it was just going. I had to be on the brake the entire time, and when I had to come to a complete stop it was hard to do so. This past spring I had new plugs and wires put in because I had a cylinder misfire. I asked my mechanic back home and he said possibly the idle air controls or a vacuum leak, but I don't hear a hissing sound like a vacuum leak would have? I'm worried mainly because I don't know if this is safe to drive or not. I can't get into my regular mechanic for a while, and I know going to the local Ford dealer will be much more expensive. Any ideas?

Items replaced to date, manifold cover, 3rd cat by muffler, spark plugs, injectors, down streem O2 sensor, fuel filter, air filter. Last code was 0136 the DS O2 sensor and 0 since install. Car continues to stumble at 30 mph. Can the 2 cats on the exshaust manifold be causing this. 2 mechanics have tried to fix I'm a friend, guess I must be last resort.