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Ford E-150 Questions

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408
questions

changed coil wires, coil pack, plugs, air filter....problem was happening before these repairs and after the repairs had been made...happens every time I drive

Thing runs decent but kills a battery while goin down the road lights flicker but it runs at an idle with positive cablw off of battery so that tells me the alternator is workn or it would die rite?

the speedometer doesn't go beyond 30 mph

My vehicle will not start,no fuel pump pressure. No power to the #7 fuse,anyone know what to do?





After freezing night started up easily, drove to station (10 min.), Temp. gage shot from cold to overheat just as I pulled to pump. Shut off, pumped gas, tried to start, turned over easily but no fire. Towed home, drained water and oil - no water in oil or oil in water. Removed plugs and found moisture on 3. Changed plugs & oil, tried to start - no fire again??

Van won't start only clicks new battery already.

Had high idle 37mph down the road! I replaced the throttle position sensor and idles properly now, sounds great, installed new battery that night. Ran for 3 days sat for 2 days in below freezing weather. Finally started by pushing on and off the gas pedal and a continuous forward on the key. Made an awful noise trying to start as I kept forward on the key. I know everything I didn't want to do but at least it started. I let it run in the drive for 20 minutes. Drove in and out of the driveway and I turned of with the key. Immediately I tried to start it back up and only a click at the solenoid. I next replaced the starter at the flywheel just clicks at the solenoid by battery. Replaced the solenoid behind the grill still just clicks at the solenoid and I also heard another click from somewhere on the passenger side, not sure if it slicked prior to replacing the starter? Maybe it is the starter solenoid on the starter itself or is there a relay or something I need to look at on the passenger side? I read 12 volts through my analog test meter. Did I do something to harm an electrical connection? I need help getting the starter to spin I believe I have a good butt joint connection to the new starter from my ignition cable. The wire with a butt joint connector came with the new starter and I made a fresh cut to join it to the car wiring.

Van has front and rear heat. Need to replace all of the hoses. Parts store says it takes 5/8 and 3/4 inch hoses.Need to know how long each one is (does one go to the back and the other from back to front?)Also, I can't remember the name of it, but it's the metal tubing that is part of the hose. Do you know what it is called and if possible what size is it? Dealer doesn't carry this part anymore, and I need to make one ( or two). Thanks

we replaced the coil twice,sparkplugs,rotary bug and cap. Was running great, turned it off now wont start again

When I brake the pedal goes to the floor. Puddle of brake fluid under steering. Need ballpark cost to fix.

The steering is hard to control because the vehicle wanders from left to right. It's worse at higher speeds. I'm constantly having to correct it and it's much worse when passing a semi or in strong winds. What is causing this problem? Could it be low air pressure? Could it be damaged control arms and/or bushings? I've read about steering gearbox failure and that scares me! Any ideas? Thanks. Mo

to start with it was slipping so fluids was changed n filter there was shavings found in oil pan. now im looking 4 another transmission cheap im on SSI and thats the only way to dr and pay bills. also if u guys did fix it how much?????????? and would have to be towed.

The heater core is not clogged, I flushed the radiator and installed a thermostat. The hoses to and from.the heater core still won't get hot. What could be the problem? It had heat before the repair

van running fine , I changed valve covers, now will not start AT ALL. I've replaced coil, ICM, Starter solenoid/relay. Still nothing I am with out a vehicle for last 3 days ready to go NUTS.... HELPPPPPP

Service Engine Light is ON, I Clear the code and it come back. How to fix it

Engine did not over heat. But when I parked there was a hissing of coolant under the van at the driver side rear wheel area-like the classic "pop the hood radiator leak". Why at the rear and what am I looking for to repair?

I changed the distributor cap and rotor,spark plugs and wires. Before I did all that it was running

Fluids are full

A/C fan stops on acceleration and starts up on deceleration, just fan not compressor. Changed fan resistor in air blower, and air mass sensor. HELP!!!

Is there any diagram for the transmission i know that probably sounds weird but i want to know what it suppose to look like after i take the pan off!!! Any help or advise would be much appreciated!
Karmell0

is there anyplace online to find a video that shows how to get to the blend door I've seen lots for the F-150's but can't find anything for the vans mine is a 98 need to open the door for the winter