Replaced the fuel pump in the front tank. replaced the ECM computer. Pulled the code 542 and the tank switch is reading fine. Truck still isn't getting fuel

It turns over like it's trying, sprayed a little engine starter and that didn't work

Van sat for some years then was driven ok then died pepboys checked fuel pumps found fuses blowing tried new ecm or pcm still blowing fuses plesse help if possible

when starting fine,starts to tick a short time after lasts about 2-3min. than stops and runs fine and norml.upper end tick slow at idle faster with rpms.like sm block chevy out of adj. tried some snake oils,better for few days.sticky lifter.thank for input.

For the whole abs system on a 94 Ford E 150 conversation with tow system

I have had problems with shuddering from 30-45 mph all the time. Occasionally I will experience slippage. The slippage seems to happen when weather is cooler and takes awhile for the gear to switch out of 1st into 2nd. A mechanic told me it felt like torque converter issue. I was hoping to take care of the problem by replacing accessible sensors before delving into complete transmission repair. There doesn't appear to be any codes thrown...at least I wasn't informed of any. Is there a sensor or set of sensors that may remedy this problem. Tranny fluid is nice and red, not sure if it was flushed before I purchased about a year ago. If there is a sensor or set of sensors that might take care of the problem, what are they and where are they located? I have a 4R70W transmission in a Ford e150 5.4L Econoline Club Wagon.

just replace the harness it was in bad shape can't find a fuse or relay to reset please help

drove fine,next morning wont start.tested coil,ignition control module,replaced cap,rotor,replaced and gapped spark plugs,getting gas,pulled rear plug and grounded to make sure its sparking,made sure rotor is turning when u hit the key.Im stumped,dealer said it does not have a crank position sensor,if it does i cant find anyone who sells it incl local ford dealer,help !!!

Runs great, 129,000 miles. I want to travel with it. Is this a big problem as long as I add oil? Is there a fix?

v6 4.2 lt.changed egr vale and senser coilpack wiers plugs air filter gas filter stil runs the same.any help

Replaced tie rod. Ball joint seems stable, but won't take grease.

changed coil wires, coil pack, plugs, air filter....problem was happening before these repairs and after the repairs had been made...happens every time I drive

Thing runs decent but kills a battery while goin down the road lights flicker but it runs at an idle with positive cablw off of battery so that tells me the alternator is workn or it would die rite?

the speedometer doesn't go beyond 30 mph

My vehicle will not start,no fuel pump pressure. No power to the #7 fuse,anyone know what to do?

After freezing night started up easily, drove to station (10 min.), Temp. gage shot from cold to overheat just as I pulled to pump. Shut off, pumped gas, tried to start, turned over easily but no fire. Towed home, drained water and oil - no water in oil or oil in water. Removed plugs and found moisture on 3. Changed plugs & oil, tried to start - no fire again??

Van won't start only clicks new battery already.

Had high idle 37mph down the road! I replaced the throttle position sensor and idles properly now, sounds great, installed new battery that night. Ran for 3 days sat for 2 days in below freezing weather. Finally started by pushing on and off the gas pedal and a continuous forward on the key. Made an awful noise trying to start as I kept forward on the key. I know everything I didn't want to do but at least it started. I let it run in the drive for 20 minutes. Drove in and out of the driveway and I turned of with the key. Immediately I tried to start it back up and only a click at the solenoid. I next replaced the starter at the flywheel just clicks at the solenoid by battery. Replaced the solenoid behind the grill still just clicks at the solenoid and I also heard another click from somewhere on the passenger side, not sure if it slicked prior to replacing the starter? Maybe it is the starter solenoid on the starter itself or is there a relay or something I need to look at on the passenger side? I read 12 volts through my analog test meter. Did I do something to harm an electrical connection? I need help getting the starter to spin I believe I have a good butt joint connection to the new starter from my ignition cable. The wire with a butt joint connector came with the new starter and I made a fresh cut to join it to the car wiring.