Will drive ("D") in 4 high. If shift out, nothing. Acts like Trans in in neutral. If try to put it in park, gears grind. Shut car off. Go back to 2h, restart, and okay in 2H. Problem repeats when back to 4h. Seems as if I could keep driving in 4h, just can't change gear???

ok basically what my truck does is, if the check engine light is on..truck runs fine wont idle high nothing just runs good, but once that light goes off, its a whole other story, it will idle all the way up 2000 then bounce between 1500 and 2000 and will not come down..if you put it in gear it will slow to 1000 and no lower, it has become hard to hold it back at a stop light, i have bought a new upper intake gasket and a tps sensor, have not installed yet, just want to know is there anything else i should try while im at it? the codes it throws are a tps, too much voltage to the tps and trans slippage, but i believe that is from the idle running so high. the truck dont know what to do when its running like that.

I just put brand new tires on the rear of my Bronco and now i'm having problems with the front end. The problem is when driving down a straight roadway my bronco wants to go left or right on its own without me turning the steering wheel.But when i try to correct the problem it pulls hard in the direction in try to correct, say it pulls right when i correct it by easing to the left, it jerks left.
I have put brand new bushings and and front end components in it within the last 6 months and now this starts.
If you have an answer please help.

i have good fuel pressure well with in the specs. ive replaced the coil, plugs and wires new dist. cap and rotor, batterie and ig mod on the side of the dist. timing has been reset. ive been told that its a fuel volume issue even though i have good fuel pressure. any ideas would be greatly apreaciated.

I have changed the icm an feul pump relay an still does the same thing

It just happened recently and I dont know what it could be i changed the fuel filter but that doesnt seem to be the problem

One of the tailgate cables is broken and I am going to replace both. But I can't figure out where to start.

After it warms up the oil pressure drops , and the knocking gets louder . The oil pump in going , but what can the knock be , and what can I do to fix it ? This always happens , it seems fine when cold , though when giving gas at idle the knock will get a little louder , but faint still

new fuel pump/filter kinda diesels while dying

I was told to test for spark to take one of the plugs out
and when I turn it over see if it sparks was none ,is this
a way of testing?

every time i step on the gas it rattles pretty hard from im guessing under the motor. then whn i release the gas it runs smooth.

When I start the engine first thing it idles at the proper rpm, but as it warms up the engine goes up about 400 rpm and never comes down till it cools off.

It seems to stop ok but the light is on all the time. I have had the diff cover off and found chunks of metal in the bottom of the housing. There are no strange noises coming from the diff.

after sitting all night and starting engine in morning if below 40 degrees it runs great on high choke for 1 min. than than comes off high choke and stalls and won,t idle on restart.

max horse power

need to check cylinder head pressure and need to know PSI for 1993 ford bronco 5.8

when turning the key to start check engine light will come on as it should but if it does not go out while cranking it will not start. if it goes out after a second or two it will start.this only happens first start of the day after that it will start all day long

It is like a hick-up and you came feel it down shifting too

When shifting it jerks the whole truck, especially to reverse, makes a huge clunking but still works. New engine, when slowing down below 10 mph it sometimes shifts to early or acts as if gas is not getting through, I give it gas and it barely goes but in a couple of seconds it gets the right gas flow and surges forward. Changed fuel filter, changed the battery, not sure what to do.

The truck is lifted an it looks like my lift blocks on the rear axle arnt sitting on the axle mounts right ther is a gap in the rear of them

loses power. Around town everything seems fine but can't drive any distance without this happening. Has been in shop Most everything that has been done has been electrical, Plug wires,rebuild distributor......I'm starting to think it must be fuel related, but not sure. Any ideas??????????

it does it whe i put it in gear.what could it be?is there an easy way to check the transfercase? its a borg/warner 1356

we adjusted all screws,checked for vacuum leaks and checked the distributor

of course the belt is tight and its 1 long belt,in my experience I have had to loosen the Altenator do I do
the same here? what is the easy route.Ruthi

wondering if it won't start without interlock switch on
clutch peddle hooked up?

It always happens first thing in the morning, but sometimes in the afternoon also. The idle goes up and back down to almost dying to back up to 1500rpm and back down. When I put it in gear, no problem at all. It will idle just fine in gear with foot on brake and drive off without fail.

My Bronco idles at 1,300 RPM for 60 seconds after first starting cold then drops to 750 RPM in neutral. I then place the vehicle in drive & the engine goes to 1,100 RPM. If I turn the AC on in drive the idle drops back to 750 RPM. If I place the vehicle in neutral the vehicle drops back to 750 RPM also. If I put it back in drive it goes back to 1,100 RPM. There is no check engine light. I have not checked for codes. Could the Idle Air Control Valve be the problem?

fuel pump is working but not the fuel gauge

96 ford bronco

After i drive my truck 20 or so miles if you open the fuel cap gas will spray out of the full hole for a few minutes after you open it (not seconds but at lest a minute) the truck will also stop running or run really badly