232
questions

It has manual locking hubs. Just replaced auto locking hubs.

When accelerating while driving in overdrive shifted very hits into drive very hard . An also won't ideal down after warmed up

Shift hard down from overdrive to drive while driving when accelerating , won't ideal down after driving an warmed up

The engine cranks over as normal with a new battery. There is gas flow and a dark blue spark. After setting for 4-5 hours, then it will start and run. What causes this? The transmission will not shift into drive. It stays in second gear. This started yesterday(7-31-16)

Just started after replacing thermostat and gasket drove next day got out of car came back noticed temperature high checked reservoir full

When i started my truck my abs light was on. When i drove it, my speedometer went crazy, the truck wouldn't shift past 2nd, and would downshift back into first. My rear window (witch i had no problems with) suddenly would not work either.

Just bought a bronco last week and the ignition started to lock up and I have to wiggle the key to get it started,do I need to replace the ignition coil?

will start first time then no start! replaced ECM Ignition coil & ignition cylinder, cap,button,starter relay & starter.As soon as it warms up the same problem occurs at varying intervals. its getting very old is there a real world solution always been a ford man please help.

I seen on this site that the actuator might be broken. where is this actuator located & can I do this myself how much does this actuator cost?

Think it is either Transfer case wear, Replacement PS Pump Pulley pressed on wrong or Trans filter needs changing. Accelerating under bridge hear some sort of exhaust leak reflecting on wall when Accelerating. Changed PS Fluid to Mercon V and it is a little less. Thought it was tire related but it is smooth when cold

1994 ford bronco5.0 engine

I have a 1990 5.0l bronco five speed, sometimes when I start it shell fucking fly like a mustang and make it to 6000 rpm with ease and and then others she's slow as shit and doesn't like to go beyond 4000 rpm, any ideas why it does this? I'd really like her to run fast always otherwise she has no power.

When I first got it;it ran fine then I noticed the timing went out of whack it runs hot and when you drive it maybe 9 miles after it hears it will not start after you shut it off. Looks to be rebuilt? Suggestions?

It drove fine on the way home, idle was a bit lower than normal. Didn't drive it the rest of the weekend and problem happened this morning.

You have to manually shift my tranny cuz somebody put a new one in and they rigged up a metal wire that is going inside the pan and it is loose and means no gasket is on the pan. Now I drive thru water and all it does is bogg down and has no power at all. The o/d light keeps blinking now since I got the water in it. What do I do to fix it?

Was trying to pull a friends chevy out of some severe rutted mud environment today and all of a sudden a huge amount of smoke started coming from under the truck....briefly....I thought it was a tire smoking as the front of the truck was on pavement.. It didn't keep me from continuing to drive on up on the road and continued to pull him out with another truck helping by pulling me too. Afterward I looked back to where I was stopped and it started smoking and look like about a half a gallon of transmission fluid had dumped below the truck. Checking under the hood...the was no sign of leakage but no fluid showed on the stick. Looking under the truck show signs of a small amount of leakage where I had parked....coming from a circular seal of some sort under the truck. I can't find it on any schematic. My friend then went to buy fluid....took about 20 minutes....I never turned off the engine.....we added about half a quart first....saw no leakage...so almost 1 1/2 quarts more to to show full n the stick. Drove about a mile at between 20 and 30 mph...stopped...saw no leakage....hit the highway at 60 mph for abut 4 miles and parked it.

The circular plug looking thing is about the size of a half dollar...appears to have a rubber oring or gasket above the metal....can spin with my finger and can press in and out slightly. I was thinking it might be missing a snap ring retainer but I couldn't find one at the site. I was definitely overworking the truck and it no doubt overheated. Is this just some safety mechanism that engaged of have I possibly really harmed the truck in some way. It appears to be working fine but I'd really hate to break dowm somewhere where the wreckers can't go.

It continued to run. It did not do it all the time but third time is it just stopped.Now when I turn ignition it just clicks. Was this a bad starter all along or was there another issue that caused this and will do same thing when I replace my starter?

applied electret grease to the pcm and bulkhead connector, replaced the distributor electronics,r&r crank sensor,ignition mod on the driver fender, new plugs, all started when rain crank no start, replaced plugs ,crank sensor and distributer electronics no start next day started drove till next rain ,after rain no start, greased the pcm , bulkhead connectors started drove Two days washed and again no start, with air gun dried pcm n bulkhead connectors started 2 days driving engine started popping,loss power stalling with restart than died crank no start, has 40 psi fuel psi pump runs please help if can thank you