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Has a 3.0 V6 motor have changed spark plugs and coil packs
Starter was replaced with a new one and the same issue exist. Could this be the battery or a relay of some type? Thank you!
i replaced the belt and the tension wheel it is still making the noise. the noise is coming from around the alternator and smog pump area. could it be a bearing going out on one of them. how do i determine which one it is
The timing is off and I need to know how to get it back in time.
could my belt tensioner make loud knocking noises coming from the engine
It has done this several times and now it won't start at all.
When accelerating while driving in overdrive shifted very hits into drive very hard . An also won't ideal down after warmed up
Shift hard down from overdrive to drive while driving when accelerating , won't ideal down after driving an warmed up
how to install
what causes sparks to show on engine when running an car not to start four five minutes an or longer not even turn over an then just start also what problems does it cause when the fan is wired straight to the battery an head lights are the same way an none of the gauges or blinkers or speed odometer works an the template gauge to show over heated knowing plenty water oil engine coolant an everything is proper an there has also been several blown fuses
what causes sparks to show on outside of engine when running make small sparking noises template gauge to show over heated at all times even though there's plenty of engine coolant an way water an oil also what causes a car to not start four five to ten minutes when shut off an not even turn over an what causes speed odometer an oil light blinckers or any other sensor not to work accept template gauge showing over heated an have blowedseveral fourth watt dudes that control the ignition an other main thangs
I do pull over right away when overheating and turn off. When cooled down, I slowly take off cap and then antifreeze comes out and I replace it. Can usually drive all day with nothing else happening! Service Engine Soon light stays ON. Battery light is flickering on and off (not all the time).
I am looking for some advice on our 2 family cars. One is a 2009 Ford Focus with 68,000 miles, it is completely paid off! The other is a 2012 Subaru Outback with less than 40,000 miles but we have 4-5 years of payments left on it.
I run my own business so I work from home and commute to a local office- 4 minute drive away. I also run the errands like grocery shopping etc but everything is very close to us.
My husband works for a hospital 40 minutes away and goes to school 30 minutes away.
Who should use which car? And what is smartest financially? My husband WANTS to use the Outback because he likes it better. I want to use the Outback because of the easier to use trunk space for errand running plus my thought is the newer car should be used less? My husband drives a lot more miles than me so is it smarter for him to use the Focus that is paid off? Or should he be driving the newer car? Any advice is greatly appreciated!
not getting any voltage on #1 pin on electrical connector on coil pack on right side of motor
Is there a recall in subframes on a 2003 ford windstar???
I put my charger on and it works, but the car lights or anything doesn't come on
The gauge that tells you how fast you are going stops working?
Well yup I have to fix it. What. Is best have the tranny shop rebuild it and 1 year warranty or one from ford with a 3 year warranty. Difference in price is $800.
i first started it. it backfired so i tried it again . it started but now it has a loud knocking noise coming from the engine. what could this be. its not the upper intake runner.
started running rough like when idleing and when driving didnt have as much power. then a little white smoke from engine . then few days later started smelling like gas. and is losing even more power now.
Can't shift out of park have to pump the brake pedal to shift into a gear
fuse box under steering wheel was kicked accidently and activated the device and it shut down everything.
I have water damage on my dashboard and half the buttons do not work. Ex. Tune, Volume, A/C. What needs to be replaced and what would it generally cost me.
Started out going dead but would crank right up. Then I had to switch from rear to front tank and it would fire right up and go dead when I put it into gear but when I switched back to the rear tank it ran fine for a while. Replaced fuel tank and pump. No change. Kept getting worse having to turn it over and over and over before it would crank. Finally died and had towed to mechanic. Replaced distributor and ran fine for about three weeks and started again. Replaced distributor again. Immediately went dead. Then it bucks as if though losing fire. Fuel pressure remains constant when it dies. After it has a bucking fit and I make it home, it cranks and runs fine for about 70 miles and starts bucking. Sometimes I can disconnect the positive cable for a minute then put it back on and it cranks up and runs fine for a while. Things that I have replaced, battery cable ends, fuel tank selector switch, ignition control module, computer, idle air control valve, batter cable ends. Still intermittently and violently bucks and dies. I have the dash board completely torn apart looking for a short in the wiring on the firewall. I would appreciate any suggestions as I the truck has spent more than ten weeks several different shops and I simply cannot get it figured out. I have only managed to get it to act up in front of a mechanic one time who said he was going to run some tests in the morning but again, it cranks right up and drives fine when it is cold so no dice. The truck is not throwing any codes either. Thanks in advance.
All the sudden it wouldn't start so we thought it was the alternator we replace the alternator we replace the battery now we think it's the solenoid starter for the car and I just needed to know if it was a single overhead or a dual overhead engine so I know what type of starter solenoid to get
I have replaced my catylitic converter all the spark plugs had a melted coil on primary a code reads out secondary system was miss diagnosed twice spent almost $2000 on it already trying to fix the problem replaced saved myself $1000 by doing the upper intake gasket myself and replacing the coil and plugs only to find out that the violent shake is actually due to pcm or ecm unit which has cause the number 1 coil to (melt) the faulty unit may catch car on fire burn all 6 coils and leave you stranded but enough ppl haven't actually reported the problem correct and some have not even gotten this far to solve it due to the code that was popping up of P0351 was miss diagnosed and solution was found through process of elimination this being said it's an awful amount of $ to be putting into a car with only 100,000 miles on it and is not due to wear and tear
I have a 1993 ford probe gt with a mazda setup it stopped running but will turn over. I replaced the fuel pump and the injectors are getting power. It still would not start. I replaced the crankshaft position sensor and it started on the first try and stayed running for 3 or 4 minutes and turned off again and all it will do now is turnover. The fuel pressure is good. What is wrong with it
Repair shop ran a diagnoatics and found seat belt problem..replaced that but still has the warning signal.
I have the door. The problem a/c and heater was coming out the defroster vents. and windstar are good for doors braking. Sub-model is GL. / 3.8L
What do you think New motor ? And how much will it cost?