1997 crown Victoria ford

How do you fix the leak from the sael connecting transmission to the engine and what exactly would be wrong?

Its an '84 (not '90) F150. OK on short drives but beyond 20 mi. it begins pulling very hard to the left, shudders hard & won't go above 35-40mph; very hard to keep it steering straight. After stopping the front left wheel is very hot to the touch, a metallic smell from the wheel well and a loud, fast metallic 'tinging' sound that slows down as it cools. After a 1-2 hour stop its usually OK, not pulling left or shuddering for short drives home but comes back if needing to drive another +20 miles. The problem might be brought on by having to brake hard at higher speeds, but lately its happening even when I drive slower, downshift into stop lights, stay off freeways etc.

Worked earlier then tried another key and CPU put back how it was now will not read key

Car is currently making a loud 'go-kart' like noise all of a sudden from the front of the car. It sounds like a muffler issue but looking underneath I can't see any rust or disconnection from the muffler.

Runs good over drive light blinks then stops blinking runs great happens sometime

seems maybe a short somewhere.Radio stopped working and we have to take battery cable off when sits to keep from draining battery. Changed oil and screen.no shavings Please help.

F350 Super Duty 7.3 Diesel that sat for a while and now will not start. Used a little extra starter fluid, it cranked but then died out. I have already checked the fuel pump.

What could be wrong.it want stay started and has very little power

They have been rotated approx. every 7000 miles. Good Year Destination

Why would the Idol fluctuate ?

Either replace the motor, or sell the car as is. I have a mechanic friend that is going to replace it with a crate motor for $3,500-$4,000 its a new motor so it comes with a 100,000 mile/3-year warranty. Is this worth it? I'm $7k deep into this money pit due to unneeded suspension replacement trying to chase down a squeak that I never found, and also from rebuilding the transmission...

Engine tick, thought it was timing chain tensioners. Then the tick jumped to the opposite side of the engine(it was on passenger front, now it's on driver rear, yes I can feel the tick with my hand). I did an oil change, and it has tons of metal flake in the oil.
The motor only has 110,000 miles which is aggravating because these motors are supposed to be bulletproof.

SO! idk what the tick is, but the metal in the oil shows that I need a new motor... or a whole rebuild.... Is this car worth another $4,000? (just to repeat, I've already replaced the transmission. So almost all of the major components of the car have been replaced.) I know I'll never even break even at this point with this car, but I don't know if it is worth keeping this car alive.

A few weeks ago the left turn signal start blinking more rapidly than usual. Visual inspection revealed what appear to be a faulty front bulb. However, the next day it was working again. Then I noticed the driver’s door lock was lagging behind the others. Now, it’s stopped working completely and my battery charge light comes on a minute or so after start. The battery test at 12.55v off and 13.86v running. Should I tear into the door and suspect the lock actuator? Or, is there other tests I should do first?


I believe my convertible top is sagging down more than it is suppose to be. When I shut the doors, both windows end up on the outosde of the convertible top. I have to row them down and back up for them to go in right. And even after thay, when it rains water leaks in from the top and side(there's a gap in the side sepreating the front and back windows which is suppose to be connected and have no gap). How should I go about getting this fixed and about how much will it cost including labor and everything?

ive had my car for almost a year now,im having problems with my battery.something keeps draining my battery and I have to get a jump almost every day.some days it will crank right up then some days it wont causing me to get a jump,its not my alternator nor the battery its self I got both check.the lights and everything comes on but it wont start.i can get a jump and as long as im not letting it sit for a long period of time it will crank right up but if it sits like over night then ill have to get a jump but then again some days it sits over night and the next day it cranks right up so I really don't know what the problem is.i do make sure everything is off before I exit my car sometimes that work and sometimes it dont

Plugs and plug wires
EGR valve
Fuel filter and fuel pump
Ignition coils
MAF sensor cleaned and diagnostics says ok
O2 sensors - Banks 1+2, sensor(s) 1

Have had codes p0133, p0171, and p0174 appear in the past. As they appear, mechanics clear codes and replace parts

Still lacks power and high gas consumption (9-10mpg). Conditions are daily - day & night

When new fuel pump was installed, saw a decrease in gas consumption.