Dodge Ram 1500 Questions
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the engine fails, but the fault is not constant, it comes off fluctuations and recovers and has burst on the engine when it fails, and was changed spark plugs, oxygen sensor, cap distruibuidor cables, high sensor crankshaft, the IAC, fuel pump, and continues to fail, the computer does not throw fault codes. thanks for the help
I had a new transmission speed sensor installed because the "engine light" was on and the reading indicated "P0720 output speed sensor malfunction". But now, I can't get smog certified because the technician says the reading is "incomplete" meaning I haven't driven enough miles for the new sensor to make a reading.
How do I find them and test them?
I had it dianosed they said,fuel cap,charcoal canister or vacuum leak.I need help fast,what should i do.
the electric plunger valve on the back of the throtle body opens creating a massive vacum leak. this happens until normal operating temp is acheived. also on hot start up. I have replaced every sensor on the engine that sends signals back to the pcm,,,,,, Do you have any suggestions ,,,, I think the pcm is TOAST.
how do i change it
van is still heating up. replaced water pump and top radiator hose and removed the thermostat. what could be the reason it is still heating up?
It seems to be coming from behind the passenger front tire. Of course, I can't see up in there because of the wheel well/firewall. What hose might be up there that could be leaking and how can I get to it??
after i drive it for a few miles it does it more after i turn it of for a few minuts
looking for full paint work
occurs upon shifting from start into drive or from park into reverse. it is not low on fluid. has approximatrly 152,000. truck was purchased used and not known when last trans flush occured.
ago. Has been running fine until last night. At speeds between 35-45, the engine starts to "buck" like it is misfiring. Press on the gas and the vibrations go away. Then the check engine light came on. Ideas? Help?
light will go off after disconnect battery, re-connect; drive about 1 mile, and light comes back on. Crazy.
above a/c blower and resistor.
i have a 1995 dodgr ram 1500 v6 ,it run fine with out ththe pvc valve ,but i dont want to continue like this
I installed a new ingnition lock & cylinder following the given directions and the directions in the Haynes manual. Now I can't get it to turn over. Best I can tell I'm lining everything up right when I put the cylinder/switch contraption back on. Any advice is appreciated.
will not shift down
driver's side a/c vents blowing cold air. passenger side vents blowing warm air. freon full. no dual control.
When I accelerate my blower keeps running but it does not blow thru the vents.
overheated while driving on the freeway
I had a differential service done. Replaced front and rear brakes. Still the noise is there. Brake serviceman said I would have to take to a transmission place to find noise and repair. It is something in drivetrain.
If I have two different sized tires on the front and back wil that effect my abs braking system?
1998 1500 with a 5.9
My fan will only work radomly. Mostly now it does not work. I can push the AC button and the compressor works. I have proven that the fan is good and the resistor is good. I am pretty sure that the control module is bad or i have a loose connection. How do i remove the module from the dash. There is a Plastic(wood grain) cover that i think needs to come off to get the module out. I don't want to break the cover.
is it the first plug or the sedond one on the throttle body one plug is black and one is white one is in front of the throttle body and under the air intake and the other is in the center of the throttle body which is it.
while driving lost power and engine shutdown. was able to restart and get 5 miles home with reduced power and higher than normal rpm's during the drive.
2003 Dodge Ram w/5.9 eng. runs hot w/a/c on and really runs hot when towing my race car trailer.Has new waterpump,radiator,theromostat and extra aftermarket cooling fan on radiator any ideas? Thought mite try to see if a 5.7 radiator maybe bigger not sure
abs and break litr on new rear sensor
after the front calibers were replaced
upper radiator hose hot; bottom hose cold; we have replaced radiator; new water pump; new thermastat and radiator cap - after driving to town and back no pressure; gage reads 200degrees