Dodge Dakota QuestionsRefine by vehicle
automatic transmission leaks, have tightened bolts around pan
EVERY THING I SEE ABOUT THESE REVIEWS
has people always complaining about the brakes
last week i loaned my truck to a neighbor an she said i took her a couple stops to get use to the non power brakes.it says i paid fo power brakes but i had one of my kids say almost the same thing.so they don,t have them or they are just crummy brakes?
can I drop the oil pan in the truck to do the rods & main bearings & oil pump with out removing the motor? is there a way to do that? did I say it is a 4x4? I looked under the truck, it looks realy tight. so can it be done?
My 2006 Dakota began to sound like the battery needed to be replaced a few days before when I first started it now all I hear is a clicking noise when I turn the key. There is still lots of juice going to the dashboard and headlights so it is not the battery. Is it really the starter or solenoid?
2000 dakota 4.7L. When first started after sitting sounds like no oil in top motor. Sounds like valves chattering. Only last for about a second. Then starts up fine as long as it doesn't sit for awhile. Also inside filler tube is milky oil (water). Check dipstick and oil is fine. Is only in filler tube. Clean filler tube and drive, milky oils starts building up again.
1997 Dodge Dakota pickup standard transmission has intermitent starting problem. Doesn't seem to make any difference if in nuetral, cluths pushed in, foot on brake or emergencyy brake on or any combination. Thanks
does not idle high no matter how cold it is. starts up and idles at around 700. then after driving a little idle drops to 500 rpms. put in park idles fine. turn on defrost and idles fine. also when started after sitting, sounds like valves chattering or no oil in top of engine. only last about a second then sounds fine. after that starts up fine unless it sits for awhile.
can I drop the oil pan in the truck to do the rods & main bearings & oil pump with out removing the motor? is there a way to do that?
I got stuck in a snow bank earlier this week, and as i was trying to get out of it, I was turning my steering wheel from side to side as I would back up and drive forward. Then my steering wheel became very stiff and hard to turn, not gradually, very suddenly. I ended up out of the ditch, and now it seems that my power steering isn't working at all. The fluid is full, no leaks, and the fan is tight with all pulleys turning. There are no whining sounds when I turn the wheel either. When the wheel is straight, there is a small area that it turns with no resistance, but as soon as I turn past that, I have to use both arms to turn at all. When the truck's tires are off the ground, they turn fine. I appreciate any help you can give me, and if you need more info, let me know.
I don't have a problem I just want to upgrade the Dodge Dakota exhaust/muffler to make it sound and look better. Where does a person go to have this done?
Also, can you add side running boards to this year vehicle if the dealer says they aren't available for this model year?
I have a 1990 Dodge Dakota with a 3.9 engine what do i set the Timing on it with a Timing light what Degree?
Truck stalls when I'm backing up. It doesn't stall when going straight back but if I'm turning in reverse it will stall. It starts right back up and drives in all other gears just fine. Transmission is automatic and the check engine light does not stay on. I have replaced the Throttle Position Sensor because I seen that as a possible cause in another forum but it did not fix the problem. Anyone have any thoughts?
When the truck is first started in the mornings, the rpm's initially go up to 2000 rpm's then slowly decreases.
Also, sometimes when I stop for a red light, the engine rpm's increase to approx. 1200 and then decreases slowly.
tire leans outward creating pull to the left and excessive tire wear
the oil pressure guage started fluxulating from 0 to 40-50 then the motor stalled out got hot pulled oil dipstick out no water in the oil but dipstick wont go back in the tube & truck wont start
when driving at 35 and 45 mph. and you come to a hill theres a strong vibration and the rpm. drops to around 1500 and lower this just started why?
How much should it cost to change/replace the spark plugs? Is their placement so difficult, that lots of effort is put into getting to their location?
Rear seat belt latch caught in the door breaking the plastic cover,is there anyway to repair so to stop it from falling to the bottom of the belt every time
Does this engine have a belt or chain and when (mileage) should it be changed?
Check Engine light comes on sometimes. When it comes on vehicle idles rough. When not on vehicle runs fine. Brake and intilock light always on. Help. Pulled the codes and I think it read code 27. What is that? TPS?
I replace the theromostat, theres no leak from the heater core, but i dont have any heat unless its engine heat?
I replaced the pump with rebuilt pump replaced the rack and pinion with a rebuilt rack. Replaced the high pressure line. The vechile has 96,000 miles. It has warmed up weather wise and the whining noise has got better.
I have a recently acquired 1997 Dodge Dakota Sport, 3.9L V6, 5-speed AX15 manual transmission, with 160,000 miles on the odometer; not sure how many miles on the transmission.
Here is a summary of the symptoms that it is manifesting:
The majority of the time it is hard to shift into 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears, although occasionally shifting into all 3 gears is perfectly smooth (what I would consider normal). I would estimate that it shifts normally around 10% of the time.
When it does shift normally, ALL 3 gears engage normally (after shifting into 3rd normally).
When it does not shift normally, ALL 3 gears are hard to engage, but each has a different relative level of difficulty, with 1st being extremely hard to engage, 2nd moderately hard and 3rd the easiest (but still not normal)
Once 1st gear has been successfully engaged 2nd and 3rd engage normally when up shifting.
At a dead stop, all 3 gears are hard to engage as described above.
Since 1st is basically impossible to engage the majority of the time when I try to shift directly from neutral or any other gear, here is my workaround when coming to a stop (with each gear engaging with the level of difficulty summarized above):
1. Shift into 3rd
2. Shift into 2nd
3. Shift into 1st
On the rare occasions when it slips smoothly into 3rd it also slides like butter into 2nd and/or 1st.
Double clutching does not appear to have any effect.
Does anyone have an idea what the problem might be given these symptoms?
I have a '88 Dodge Dakota 6cyl pickup with 65,000 miles. It's started surging when idling and has a dead spot in the accelerator where it wants almost bog out and die but won't quite. Seems to run fine down the highway, but a bit rougher in town. Any ideas?
I am trying to find a drive shaft for my dodge truck can I have it fixed or can you find me a new or rebuilt one?
The dealership said the bearings in the water pump is not tight and needs to be replaced.
had smog test done thats what the fault code reads p1756
fault code p1756 gov pressure switch
Just replace brake pads, rotors, sway bar, and ball joints and there is a vibration on driver side when accelerating and when i brake the vibration goes away.
The one head is cracked. How much should it cost to replace the head and the mechanic work.