Dodge Dakota Questions

Get answers to questions about your Dodge Dakota at RepairPal. Find solutions, diagnose problems and get back on the road.

Refine by vehicle
Choose your vehicle
No car image 94a1663db56199c5353592009e34aaa51078a2469bed068bb8d6f0ba43accf97
Get a Repair Estimate
Guaranteed by certified locations nationwide. Learn more
RepairPal estimates are guaranteed at over 1,700 quality certified locations nationwide. Learn more

why smoke comes out my exorce pipe every time i start the truck

My 1990 Dodge Dakota is hard to start i hav to try at least 6 or 7 times before it will actually start and then it sounds like it has a miss.i eve sprayed carb cleaner in it then it starts right up.

where is the power steering pressure located on a 2000 dodge dakota 4.7lv8

where is the voltage regulator on the 91 dakota is it in the alternator or in the computer?

What causes the output tube of the AC compressor to be so hot you cannot hold hand on it??? even when the AC seems to be cooling Ok it is still too hot to touch...

I checked oil. o.k. have cleaned the pcv and it is all clear. the engine makes no noises and runs perfectly fine. Do not know where to look next

Rear Brake line corroded and needs to be replaced.

cost of replaceing timing cover gasket

bought the truck used. Service dept told me to use 5-20 synth blend. I have called 4 Dodge dealers and they all told me something different. One said 5w30, one said 10w20 2 told me 5w20???which is correct???

The rpm guage goes up and down, while sitting still and while driving down the road. And sometimes acts like it doesn't want to shift from one gear to the next. the code on diagnostic i think was EVA.

all the time like the brakes are sticking but i checked all of them no problems how an where can i get a used or repair kit for my dodge is my rear end bad bang an loud noise bumpping

where are the exhaust manifold bolts located on passeger side and what has to be removed to get to them

my front springs squeaks, have replaced it quit for awhile
then started again

we changed the cam sensor and crank sensor new distributor cap, ignition switch is good. getting low voltage reading from coil. gets no spark and sometimes it does get spark.HELP

as i'm driving at 60+mph, it seems like the tranny down shifts and the tach revs up to about 3000rpm, then goes back down, then back up and so on. What could be causing this? Tranny was recently rebuilt

please let me know how long it takes to repair it and whatim getting charged an hour how do i find that out

Purchased a replacement crank kit. The pilot needle bearing is too large for the bore in the back of the crankshaft and I can't find a smaller one to install. Is there a bearing or bushing available for the smaller hole?

The replacement crank kit has the exact same markings / casting numbers as the the one coming out of the vehicle.

car Rpm when first start in the morning is around 950rpm and drop to 750 rpm after driving and shut off for about 30minute,start engine put in drive and the engine rpm drop very low like about 450 then engine start idle bad push on gas pedal engine start back fire shut off car or put into nutral push gas pedal rpm goes up engine run fine after, sometime i stop the car shut engine off and restart it will run fine after it will run fine with the ac off

Problem first occured when rear differential seiezed. Replaced rear, and no problems till oneday I noticed a noise and vibration from right below my feet at 60+mph. Then it started shifting weird. 1-2 shift fine but it would almost immediatly shift into 3rd and slip while doing so. So I replaced the transmission and the noise and vibration above 60mph is gone, but it still shifts weird. Same exact shift problems. Like it building up line pressure too quick in 2nd. When I hold it in 2nd with te shifter, and shift into 3rd(drive) at normal shift point it shifts fine, no slip or anything. So I'm lead to believe its not the trans. My truck has the chyrsler A-500 auto and last I knew it was all hydraulically controlled. The only elctronics on it were for O/D. But would a plugged cooler cause this shifting issue? Other than that transmission is great all gears work perfectly except the way short slippage into 3rd. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advanced. Chris

I got the maintenance required light that just came on and did an oil change, spark plugs and wires, O2 sensor distributor cap and exciter. Still the light turns on. I have tried disconnecting the battery, took my dash apart and looked for anything that had a reset, disconnected the battery and touched both positive and negative wires together but still no luck. I have taken it to Advance Auto and Autozone no one can give me an idea of what is going on the truck has 170,684 miles on it. It runs great but that light is driving me nuts. Please help.

transmission works fine on first gears. up shifts and downshifts without a problem, the only thing is that i can't get to go on o/d gear. i tried the overdrive switched on the dash, and changed fluid and filter. no luck.

does the dash have to be removed to replace the heater core

has anyone replaced the metal fuel line in between the tank and the motor? mine has rusted thru, and needs replaced/repaired. 96 dak 318 fuel injected.

Mine is a 5speed manual. This started sporadically and deteriorated rapidly- by day 3 (today 4/30/11) it stalls 99% of the time when coming to a stop (for example coming up to a redlight). As soon as I put the clutch in to take it out of gear-- whether I'm stopping or coasting down a hill, rpm falls and it doesnt stop at the normal idle speed of approx 800, it just keeps right on going past down to zero and dies, but I can save it if I'm quick enough at revving it once or twice and it'll revive and then idle normally when I'm fully stopped. No problems starting in 1st- I dont have to rev it at all, and if it does die while stopping I just turn the key off and recrank it and it starts instantly and runs perfectly, even if engine is still cold and hasnt warmed up yet. No acceleration issues, although rpms drop faster than usual while changing gears. Havent noticed decreased gas mileage (this is only day 3). From reading other sites thinking maybe Idle speed motor? Possibly Throttle position sensor? Also speedometer died too (stuck on zero) right when this started 3 days ago, not sure if odometer/tripometer still working (havent paid attention) which I also read can happen at the same time as the speedometer, but no idea if the 2 issues are related. Constantly recranking at every red light is more of an inconvenience than a serious problem since it restarts instantly, and I know my speed ranges in each gear so dead speedometer isnt really important but if its a cheap fix I'll do it. Any thoughts?

would like to know about the distributer drive gear.

the truck kip dranning the batery change the altanator still have the problem new battery check all grouns good n i still have the problem what can it be

I have a code for that but I dont know the number

how to remove rear hub and rear stud

where is the crankshaft position sensor located

every time i drive my 1998 dodge dakota sport when taking a right hand turn, i get a rubbing sound/feeling on the right front side of the truck.