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when I bought the truck in Jan. 2010 it got 21 - 22 mpg on the highway. In March or April they callad and said to bring it in for a recall. They re-flashed the computer and immeadiatly it went to 16 or 17 mpg and I don't know what to do to offset the reprograming.
car starts every time but stalls unless i play with the throttle by moving it up and down very fast
put in a new battery . but still went dead in a few days
Just started hearing this, like a metal clacking sound while turning tight turns
fan belt started skueaking yesterday belt is new
I've owned enough Dodge's to know when a ball joint is about to go out and I'm getting to old to change them myself. What would it cost to replace both the upper ball joints?
my car constantly idles rough and occasionally stalls while in reverse or when first place it in drive to go. today it stalled at an intersection
switching out motors in the durango 5.2 liter for 5.9 liter. will i have any problems with the computer?
replacement with used engine labor only?
how do you change out the water pump and where is it at? please help if you can
What do the head bolts have to be torqued to on a 96 dodge RAM 1500 5.2L v8?
I had my serp belt work its way off and got tangled around fan-i replaced and immediately after installing new, and starting, i noticed it made noise began to come off again...I looked at pulley it is not turning at all while car not started...can you help please.
I am looking for an illustration of the water pump replacement. Anybody have one?
I have a 02 Durango/RT 5.9 I consider it to be a high performance vehicle should I use premium gas for better performance
After warming up sometimes idles at 600rpms and is ok, then sometimes drops down to 500rpms. only seems to do this in drive, 1st and 2nd. In reverse and neutral idles ok. Also when I'm coming to a stop at about 7-8 mph the engine rpms rev about 200. does this everytime i come to a stop no matter how fast or slow i'm going. Have replaced tps, iac, pcv and taken throttle body off and cleaned.
my vehicle shifts fine into all gears but when I put it in park it rolls
My truck starts but when i press on the gas the engine acts like it want to bog out i changed the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap I also changed the Throttle Position Sensor and air flow sensor on the Throttle body but i am still having the same problem could it be me fuel pump that causing by not giving the engine enough gas it idols just fine
itray the pass DEQ my carfail dont pass the inspector give to my the paper and the results say Diagnostic Trouble Code P0456 andExhaust 1N/A Exhaust 2 N/A Evaporative System Lines leaks
pass. side window needs to come out. help!!!!
2000 dakota 4.7l. When started after sitting it makes noise like there is no oil in top of motor. sounds like valves chattering. last about a second. Motor never idles high when first started up no matter how cold it is. After warming up sometimes idles at 600rpms and is ok, then sometimes drops down to 500rpms. Also when I'm coming to a stop at about 7-8 mph the engine rpms rev about 200. does this everytime i come to a stop no matter how fast or slow i'm going. Have replaced tps, iac, pcv and taken throttle body off and cleaned.
The Tire Label is Gone, Just Wondering What is the proper pressure
Motor stalls at all stop signs unless its put in nuetral
1- its a 91 dodge dynasty Le 3.3L/v6: I just picked something.It starts great 1st thing in am, but after 2 mins. of sitting--i have to prime the gas(fuel) like a race car to stablize the fuel in motor then go/ its a fuel-injected motor, whats wrong-how to correct it???, ive changed the fuel filter and checked for vacuum leaks....no change.> some tells me the fuel pump is going and yet others say no its not. I want the straight answer to correct this now.
When I am driving down the road, either with the cruise on or not, the engine will simply stop (as in it is not getting fuel)and the fuel peddle will not work. After I pump it a time or two the engine again comes to life and I am on my way. The check engine light stays on for a day or two and then goes out until it happens again. If I am on cruise control the peddle drops to the floorboard and will not reengage until I have put the transmission into neutral. Help
Had to go on a short road trip yesterday, 127 miles. Got home with no problems and son took van to store and back. When wife went out later van would not start. Tried to jump start with no result. We do not get gas smell like it is flooded or even getting gas and it sounds like it is not firing right or possibly not getting gas. Any ideas what we can check before calling a repair shop?
when brake engaged the vehicle stops but pedal goes down towards floor (as if losing air out of brake system). The master cyl has been replaced, brakes have been bled, valve around master cyl replaced, not losing brake fluid. Thanks for your help
Every time I try to start it it dies unless I push the gas pedal then it Idle sometimes The air filter housing has oil in it and the PVC hose that goes from the air filter housing to where the hose goes to is clogged with gunk
Drove van to work and back today, no problems. Later, went to store, left vehicle idling with A/C running(approx. 10 min.). Left to go to parents house. Upon putting vehicle in gear, alarm sounded and message displayed saying to check gauges. Looked down and the only problem was that the temp was pegged out. Started driving and the temp rapidly cooled according to the gauge. After being off about 45 minutes. Started again and temp climbed to just below mid point fairly quickly. Stopped for about two minutes at idle and temp climbed to just above mid but, began to decrease again when driving resumed. I had noticed recently a different sound from the engine. Thought maybe an idler pulley bearing going bad. Wondering now if it was the water pump and tonight it finally crapped out.
On 1996 15 passenger Ran van 3500 with 3600 lb front axle, I bought new front rotors (the one piece hub/rotor combo), and all parts catalogs agree that I have the right one, but while the studs and size of the rotor match the original, the outer bearing hole on the new one is smaller and I can't find anyone anywhere who carries one that looks exactly like the old one. Part dept at dealer didn't have specific knowledge but said sometimes they go with redesigned ones to replace the originals. The outer hole on the old rotor is about 2.5 inches and the new one more like 1.5 inches. Can I go with the new rotor with new bearings in the same spindle or is a new version of my original rotor out there somewhere?
spin engine over trys to hit but wont start,can continue to spin engine and it will crank, can also cycle key off,then engine will crank