Dodge QuestionsRefine by vehicle
When first started loss of power for about 4min.
Will startup but issue if sat more than 2 hrs I think it could be in fuel sending unit ? Has 133,000 kms
It's a 3.3. It has to come out of the bottom. Plus that's replacing the water pump, thermostat and wiring harness. I'm supplying the engine and all the parts. They're saying $2500 labor. I think they're trying to rip me off.
I bought 3 pcm's in less then 3m for my 2002 dodge ram van 2500. I replaced my alternator 2x n my battery 3x but my Mechanic keeps saying I need a new pcm. Another guy said my pcm wires get hot n cuts my whole engine off while driving. Is there a cover for my pcm?
ON 09/22/2016 my 2013 Dodge RAM (the Model would not give me a truck option on this web site) 1500 Longhorn Laramie 4x4 (45,000 miles) would NOT SHUT OFF! I know that's different! It eventually shut itself off after running for over 20 mins. I called on my ASSIST button on my mirror and they told me I had to take it to the dealer. I had just had my 45,000 mile service done on it and had no other issues (ever) with this truck. I disconnected my travel trailer (I was starting my vacation to the mountains) and drove to the dealer after calling them to tell them I was on my way. Upon arrival the truck shut down immediately (amazing right). The service advisor wanted to charge me just to look at it. I flatly refused and informed him that I just had the truck in for service and they must had broken something. He got the Service Manager who came out with his tablet and did a quick diagnostic and said it was the PCM (Power Control Module). He told me if there were no other problems to drive it to the mountains and continue to monitor it. He did not know how to stop it from running. I went on vacation and eventually had to take to a dealer up there who also said it was the PCM and they ordered the part (its under warranty) that would come in AFTER I got back home. I went home and while there the truck developed OTHER problems like not going above 12MPH and taking off in reverse. I had it towed to my hometown dealer who later said it was the PDC (Power Distribution Center) and that it was not under warranty. They have now gotten a new PDC ($700.00) installed and they now say the truck is still running "somewhat" but it needs the PCM...STILL. So what came 1st, the chicken or the egg? If the PCM was the initial culprit and caused the PDC to go bad...then I may get my dealer/warranty to cover the entire cost of this repair.
My van is a 1988 i had my automatic transmission rebuilt and now when im on the freeway it seems like its in 2nd instead of drive. its revving high and putting out alot more heat. They said its a three speed transmission and its fine. what else can cause it to rev like its in 2nd? it shifts 2 times. something is not right cause it never sounded like that before. also how can you go 65 miles an hour in 3rd gear?
Heated seats, alarm key, interior lights when car is off and doors won't lock when pressing button on door when car is off.
Symptoms of a bad wheel bearing.
Driver side tire starting to shudder .
I don't know if it's a ball joint something else.
Any 1 here has dealt w/ this b4
All the segments light up on the gearshift indicator and transmission will not shift until gearshift is put back in park and then back to drive.
change plugs, wires , air filter , change injector , clean coborator . code p0303 still shows .
I replaced a belt 2 weeks ago. today it broke again. I can replace it but I want to know why its breaking.
The windows on the pass side don't work. The power outlets dont work, I had the fuses checked out and they look good. I was told it's probably an electrical box. Where is it? What is it called?? Is it expensive to get? Thank you so much!!
My friend had a garage put an alternator on and they replaced the belt too, altough they did not replace the idler or tensionor. A week to the day the belt flew off and some how broke the earlets for the a.c.. Can I just downsize the belt and have it safe? I've been trying to fix it for 5 days and even jbweld didn't stick. So I can't mount the bypass pully. Need more thoughts!!!!! Please help!!
I have 120000 miles on my diesel truck and had to replace the water pump this year. Then 6 months later it went out again. Now after only 2 months its going out again.why? I used a part from oReilys and I am getting suck of going through this. What could it be?
Ac working fine heater working fine vbelt very loose ultimately coming off
V belt made noises when fan was turned on had no problems with cooling 2 to 3 weeks since then belt has come off was told need compressor without inspection
How can ibfind th problem without throwimg a bunch of parts on?
I have replaced the battery and the terminal ends, idle air control valve, tested the TPS (tested good), fuel pump, ignition coil, and cleaned the TB. Scanner is popping the code P0315 (Primary/Secondary Ignition Malfunction). Any idea on how to proceed?
When u start the van it runs smooth but within few min of warming up it it it started surging lacks power under loud have changed map sensor,spark plugs rotor and fuel filter and PVC and it still is running bad what is causing this
when it turns over the speed ometer bounces . I pulled the instrument cluster and pluged in different bulb , it would flash on then off but wouldnot stay on with key on. tried obd and it would not flash. pluged in obd under dash and it failed to connect.
ok I'm a 26 year auto technician but got a head scratcher here. Got this truck from an auction and upon inspecting why the driver rear window wouldn't roll down (its a quad cab) realized someone had gutted the door, took window motor and regulator assy. got all new componenets and installed them and all windows work except the drivers rear, if you use the rear door switch it will roll the window down but will not roll up and I get no action at all from the NEW master switch. All the little green lamps in the top of the switches are lit and using a power probe, I'm able to watch the voltages swap from one pin to the other at the window motor but it seems like its not applying a ground to complete the circuit when you attempt tp roll the window back up. I cannot find any broken wires and even checked the TIPM for a bad connection and none were found. the problem I'm running into is finding a good diagram, I have all data but the diagram is pretty vague. any help would be greatly appreciated.
The vehicle check engine light is on. The vehicle frequently hesitates when you push on the gas. I want to know how do you check a governor solenoid, governor pressure sensor or the Throttle Position Sensor?
No-one can diagnose my car properly help please
dodge nitro 2011 2wd 4.0 ,where is the thermostat location
My automatic(motion) door lock on my driver side quit working years ago. Recently, the passenger side clicks for no reason, intermittently, even when just sitting in the garage. I just wish to unhook it so that it doesn't run my battery down this winter...
Appreciate a suggested solution...
replaced fuel lift pump and started without either 20 times or so but each start cranking took longer. Now back to using either. replaced fuel rail pressure sensor did not help
replaced fuel lift pump and started fine for twenty time but cranking longer progressed till no start. back to either
6.7lt EGR permanent defect. Chrysler never acknowledged the problem
Its a friends car she drove it to her moms after that it just Wong turn over never had problems but it was a quart of oil over i drained 1 quart
I packed the truck this morning with no problems. When I went back to start it it can not start.