Chrysler Town & Country Questions
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One of my low beam headlights is out. Changed the bulb but that's not the problem. I checked and there is no power going to the one light. The other low beam and high beams all work. Can anyone help? Thanks so much
I noticed over the winter when I had the heat on
that if the fan was on the lower settings it was
making a hissing noise. Now that it's nice the AC is
doing the same thing. The AC also seems to only
get cold when I'm accelerating, if I come to a stop
light or something, it's not as cold. Wondering what
this is and roughly how much it costs to repair?
Replaced charcoal (or whatever) canister. All pulleys, belt alternator battery, plugs coil, plug wires.
The oil is only sprayed on the passenger side of the engie, hood and other things.
Started van, smoke came out from under the hood and check engine light came on
My 1997 Town and Country has many issues but this constant stalling is unacceptable and unsolvable. It had the typical stalling issue due to instrument cluster solder joints and that has been fixed. It was inspected last year and the EGR and cam sensor were replaced. The stalling began again in ernest. It starts cold and runs fine for 10 seconds to 2 minutes and dies. It restarts runs a few seconds and dies....starts dies, starts dies (harder to start as it gets warm) until the engine gets hot. Then it has to sit and think, I guess for 5-10 minutes then starts and runs fairly well, but stalls at lights. Have to keep "heel and toeing" it to keep it running.
Replaced crank sensor, coil pack, plugs and wires, as suggested by scan numbers read by parts store. (Forget that) re-sealed intake manifold and injectors, checked vacuum lines and cleaned the throttle body, and tps. Separated the melted wires to the upper O2 sensor. (makes me wonder about the rest of the wiring)
Map sensor seems fine but the signal voltages seem upside down at 1.3 not running and 4.8 in idle. Recent fuel pump and filter, and swapped out fuel pump and asd relays. Also replaced the battery, worn out by restarting.
All this and there has been no major change for the good or bad.
I've learned from this that codes only point at a condition affecting a part, not necessarily at a bad part and a condition may not throw any codes at all leaving us in the same place we were 40 years ago, but worse.
Before I spend another cent or lose all my hair, does anyone have any other suggestions?
My car will start bt for a cple seconds n thn it shuts off bcz of the anti theft what do i do
Rear air, hot or cold will not blow anything. Nothing comes out at all, you can't hear anything running when the controls are on.
Help! What is it?! Blower motor? Blower motor resistor? Rear evaporator?
It worked when we got the vehicle just fine!
My car seems to run just fine when started however after shifting into gear easily it will drive fine until it gets warm then it starts to stall as if it no longer wants to go any faster than 30 or 40 miles an hour, though it will make it home 5miles away but rather slowly. There is also a whining noise coming from the left front fender area. What could that be? Also my windows works when they want to, the dash light is off and the gages works when they want to. There has to be some form of logical explanation for these issues. Can anyone suggest any fixes?
I just want to know why my car won't start back up.
Recently purchased 1996 T&C LXi from original owner. Garage kept well maintained only 77,000 miles. Car had not been driven for 6 months before I bought it. Installed new battery when purchased. When driving the chime goes off randomly for different lengths of time and will happen several times in a few minutes or maybe not again for several minutes. No other indicators, no lights flashing, instrument panel works fine. I have tried turning things on and off while the chime is on but can't get a relationship to the problem. Occasionally the chime will stop when I turn something on but I think it is coincidence. Instrument cluster was replaced about 4 years ago. I have replaced the C pillar light switches, the battery terminals even tried a different battery, no improvement. Does no power to the BCM for 6 months cause it to go bad? I am down to the BCM or seat belt module as the possible cause. I have only driven the van about 100 miles in 5 weeks. The longest drive was about 18 miles total. Thanks for any you can give.
I just got an oil change added new transmission fluid to the old fluid got a new air filter new battery new alternator and my car was on e and when I was getting off the i it cut off i filled up drove around for about 45 got back off the and at the light when I stopped it cut off. What could it be. Oh it instantly. Starts back up.
The gate is closed, but the dome lights remain on and the word "gate" is displayed in the dash. After parked the lights eventually go off.
Changed plugs, coil,ads relay. Had in shop, will not show codes, Will not stay running, unless stepping on the gas. They think maybe computer?
IT HAS DONE THI S SEVERAL TIMES. I
SPRAYED WD40 BUT IT ATILL WON'T TURN OVER
When driving car tends to feel like it is pulling to the right and its vibrating hard to keep in the road
I smell antifreeze after car has been running and stops or gets shut off. The smell is inside and out around hood. I can smell it standing by each front tire well. There are no visible leaks anywhere inside or out and we have changed the thermostat. The temperature gauge also stays at half way as it always has when warmed up. Thank you!
So my van won't start at all, manually or by remote sometimes. Sometimes it cranks but takes a minute to start. Sometimes it won't start at all unless I charge the battery. I also have to leave my key in the ignition in order for the remote start to work when the battery is charged. It's becoming a huge pain!