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van runs great except sometimes it will stall in traffic like at a light then it will not start back up. Most of the time it runs great. Please Help someone said it was the computer behind the transmission
started my van this am and I hear a ticking noise coming from the engine. what could this be??? help
Engine light came on about three days ago car began to run rough went to start car yesterday had trouble starting when it did start was running very rough like back firing then kept steady feed on gas and car smooth out once warmed up was OK today went to start car and it will not start. keeps cranking seems to want to kick but nothing.
trouble starting car yesterday ran ough kept steady feed on gas then ran smooth. today went to start car cant get it started.
i just replaced the front parking brake cable because the old cable pulled thru the ferrule on the end. the replacement cable is an exact replacement part purchased from a mopar dealer. i cannot connect the front cable end to the rear cable bracket. there doesn't seem to be sufficient cable length even if i pull the cable taut. it seems to be almost 2 inches short of making the connection. is there some adjustment that i have to make to close the gap?
On this T&C I replaced the resistor and blower motor for the fromt of a twl zone system. It works fine, and on all speeds. It still doesn't blow air of any kind, hot or cold, from any orifice in the dash; neither defrost, vent or cabin floor. Somehow all ducting and plenums are blocked. How do I fix this on this car?
Where is it?
came up to a light and it shut down. makes no noice when i try to start it. when it died i heard a static sound. will not restart
If the cabin air filter is installed backwards or I'm not sure if it fanned out all the way when I put it in will that cause any problems?
We are going through some extreme cold temperatures like 3 and 5 degrees with wind chill of minus 13 the last few days and for Oklahoma this is extremely unusual. We could not get my van into the garage because of the blizzard we were having. It set out 36 hours with out being started. When we were able to get out of our driveway the check engine light came on and has stayed on. It is running fine otherwise.
Engine runs rough and stalls when cold (25 degrees) outside. After running about 4 minutes the engine runs fine. Recently had a plugs, wires and fuel filter changed at 230,000 miles. 3.8 L
Poor oil maintenance so engine tore up got new engine but it wont crank
replaced ignition cylinder no keyless entry alarm still wont crank does this mean i have to do a VIN specific reprogramming of the Engine Control Module? Mechanic cannt fix it and too costly to do a dealer repair
trany will shift rough or jerky
lookin for location of pressure regulator
were is it lovcated
this happens off and on if dash lites and gauges quit working then then it runs greay
my fuel econamy went down at 69000 miles i was getting highway 26 and it dropped to 22 is there something that needs to be replaced.
Need information on installing a master cylendar
Its 10 deg. outside. I let the van warm up take it for a drive and the engine temp. barely rises above "C". It was doing this even when it was 35 deg. out. I have replaced the thermostat topped off the engine coolant. There are times the engine temp will come close to middle but as soon as you start driving it returns to "C". I have read it could be an air pocket or the heater core. Im lost.
No heat or little heat is coming from the heater. Don't smell coolant, although we've had to add more as of late. No obvious leaks (puddles under car). I replaced the thermostat over the summer and hoses seemed to be OK. Is it the heater core? How can I tell if it is the heater core?
i have no heat
i replaced water pump, radiator and radiator cap and still the van takes about a 1/2 hour of running before the heat comes out properly - starts out cold, then luke warm to hot for seconds, then back to cold, but stays ho after about 1/2 hour of running
heater core replacement / front
Heater only blows warm air. This started a week ago, seemed to get better one day then stopped blowing hot air again. Temp gauge indicates motor is operating at normal temp. I have been adding approx. a pint of coolant every 250 miles for the past year. 6 months ago I had the water pump and thermostat replaced. Van has 153,000 miles. Please help.
My mechanic Fitted 2 Cases and the vehicle keeps breaking then them Why ?is he doing something wrong? These Cases are used. Before it breaks I smell that awful smell and the vehicle shakes and vibrate at spped of 45mph
The front blower fan only works on high. I just bought the vehicle used with about 109,000 miles on it.
Changed fuel pump 2 days ago car will still not start. When the key is turned forward fuel will squirt out. When you turn key to on position it will not start and no fuel is coming out. The fuel shut off switch has been reset.
window windshield washer only works on the right side the left side just a dribble.how can i unplug the left side
When turning car off the engine (I think) has a grrrrr noise that lasts a sec or two while the engine shuts down. Was just a minor nuisance and kind of funny, but is getting worse now. Car has 110K on it and I've not had any engine trouble, well maintained. Any ideas? Thanks everyone for your help!!!!
When activate the washer pump switch the fluid is not coming bat the windshield blade's start working properly. Tested the power on washer pump connector when activated for normal work bat indicated no power. Thanks.