1,780
questions

The problem always occurs upon Start-up but goes away once the engine warms up. If I turn on the AC it is noticeable when I come to a stop or idling, even when the engine is warm. One friend commented that it sounds like "loose Valve lifters" & could throw a rod...but I read here that it might be Carbon buildup on the Pistons. How do I know/find out what the problem is???

Computer said AVG,AVR ?? Its the part that mixes oil,gas and sits next to the alternator. Sometimes it make a weird noise Average cost 180.00 for part

Trac off light stays on .

I have to press the passenger door locks down manually.

Got a diagnostic test on the car and was told it was the hydraulic pump. I have no idea what that is. The car doesn't start after it sits for a long period (over night) jump starts easily and will usually restart after a short period of time.

just replace my fuel pump and filter van ran for six hours got home turn it off and got up in the moring to go some where and it won't start it acted like it's not getting any fuel.

Anything requiring electrical power is not working; power windows, doors, radio, a/c, liftgait, etc. Can turn the car on and drive but no electrical. First time this happened.

When I started my van, it started steaming from under front. Smelled like coolant. There was also a hissing sound. I drove it the 2 blocks back to work. Parked it and the hissing kept going. I sat there for about10 minutes and was still hissing when I went back in work. After work I looked for a leak but couldn't find it. I even drove to a more lite up parking spot and is not leaking. The only thing is, the ac was off when I moved it.

T&C ran hot yesterday & died. Sat for hours added water was able to drive 10 miles to home then died again. Smoking really bad?? Which way do I start trying to fix it.

It will start but not off to release key.

My friend has no power steering what so ever out of no wherr, fluid is full and in good condition, has no noise prior or shudder in steering wheel, very hard to turn.and appears to be no leaks.could you please give me some insight or information regarding this issue please? Thank you very kindly :).

Or could you tell me what to do next

Installed a "Hopkins Towing Solution Taillight Converter" on my 2002 Chrysler Town & Country, it connects to the existing wires using quick splices. After installing per included instructions, most trailer lights did not work, but van lights worked except for left rear turn signal. Rechecked all connections ensuring correct wires were connected and that everything was grounded. Went to check lights again...rear wiper started going, washer fluid sprayed on front windshield, right turn signal is on if lever is up or down, left turn signal is on if lever is in neutral position, locks/windows don't work, no radio/fan, cannot start vehicle.

Goes into neutral every time driving hwy.stop restart drives then shifts back to neutral again.please help

Went in for an oil change, air filter and clean fuel intake. When I tried to leave the radiator emptied itself on to the ground.
They say coincident. There was no leak prior

It doesn't turn on but if we let rest for a while I'll turn back on do you have any suggestions

One of my low beam headlights is out. Changed the bulb but that's not the problem. I checked and there is no power going to the one light. The other low beam and high beams all work. Can anyone help? Thanks so much

I noticed over the winter when I had the heat on
that if the fan was on the lower settings it was
making a hissing noise. Now that it's nice the AC is
doing the same thing. The AC also seems to only
get cold when I'm accelerating, if I come to a stop
light or something, it's not as cold. Wondering what
this is and roughly how much it costs to repair?

Replaced charcoal (or whatever) canister. All pulleys, belt alternator battery, plugs coil, plug wires.

The oil is only sprayed on the passenger side of the engie, hood and other things.

Started van, smoke came out from under the hood and check engine light came on

My 1997 Town and Country has many issues but this constant stalling is unacceptable and unsolvable. It had the typical stalling issue due to instrument cluster solder joints and that has been fixed. It was inspected last year and the EGR and cam sensor were replaced. The stalling began again in ernest. It starts cold and runs fine for 10 seconds to 2 minutes and dies. It restarts runs a few seconds and dies....starts dies, starts dies (harder to start as it gets warm) until the engine gets hot. Then it has to sit and think, I guess for 5-10 minutes then starts and runs fairly well, but stalls at lights. Have to keep "heel and toeing" it to keep it running.
Replaced crank sensor, coil pack, plugs and wires, as suggested by scan numbers read by parts store. (Forget that) re-sealed intake manifold and injectors, checked vacuum lines and cleaned the throttle body, and tps. Separated the melted wires to the upper O2 sensor. (makes me wonder about the rest of the wiring)
Map sensor seems fine but the signal voltages seem upside down at 1.3 not running and 4.8 in idle. Recent fuel pump and filter, and swapped out fuel pump and asd relays. Also replaced the battery, worn out by restarting.
All this and there has been no major change for the good or bad.
I've learned from this that codes only point at a condition affecting a part, not necessarily at a bad part and a condition may not throw any codes at all leaving us in the same place we were 40 years ago, but worse.
Before I spend another cent or lose all my hair, does anyone have any other suggestions?

My car will start bt for a cple seconds n thn it shuts off bcz of the anti theft what do i do