Chrysler Concorde Questions
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Oil light flickers on and off when u stopped nowbut goes off when u start going but now stays on when ur stopped help please
It will start on 2nd try, but seems to be running on 3 cylinders. Once it's shut off, it won't start again, even after an hour of trying (with batt charger). Tried heating engine compartment, no effect on start issue. Later on, after it warms up outside, I know it will crank right up. This is the third time it's done this, and all 3 times it did the same thing. Only 60,000mi on vehicle. Dealership is waiting on parts for fuel rail recall and fuel pump recall.
1) May 2014:
Check engine light would come on and randomly self reset.
2) August/Sept 2014:
a. All power windows quit working*
b. No heat*
*Possibly sametime but not sure*
3) December 2014:
a. Lose transponder key and have
locksmith make replacement.
b. Replaced battery, drive belt, a/c belt and tensioner pulley
4) January 2015:
a. Ign cylinder bad. I can pull key
out while engine remains running
b. Driver side power door lock grinding noise
5) Febuary 2015:
a. **Main dash lights stop**
b. **all gauges(fuel,speedometer, . tachometer & eng temp)
c. **Tail lights**
**all quit same time**
I'm ok with the cylinder being bad as long as its not causing other issues. Please steal it. Lol.
The fuses and relays both on the drivers side panel & the box under the hood are all good. Unless there's another box other than those 2 locations they've all been checked.
Oddly theres also always been a random definately not constant static come through my radio speakers as well. Even when at very low volume. Relevant Idfk.
Usually when slowing down the check engine light will come on and there will be a clunking sound. Then the transmission will not shift to a higher gear. If you turn the engine off and back on, the transmission will shift okay. The transmission never slips when the problem is not present. A transmission repair shop replaced the solenoid and valve body in the transmission and said the transmission looked great but the problem still exists.
My concord has 190,000 miles on it, and it is running fine, but I am curious about the additive I read about in Popular Mechanics. Xado ceramic metal treatment, has anyone tried it? What were the results?
not quite sure where it is located and im looking for detals
Transmission will not release out of 2nd gear until i shut the car off and let it sit for a while, this happens once a day. when the car dose shift there is no issue, feels fluid.
a passer by mentioned it sounds like my bearing is going out and if i didnt get it fixed id need another car. it starts out steady squeak. then once ur accelerating it becomes a whistle until u slow down enough or stop. then back to a squeak.its only been doing this for less than a month now
It will not you can not control temp. max hot only
When you try and crank it, it just spins, never actually turns over. It's like it's not
getting fire, or either the timing is off.
sometimes I cant shift out of park
engine turns over and over but does not fire. wait a minute or keep letting engine turn over and it starts. it logs the cam sensor code after starting. A couple of times it has starting bucking and engine tried to quit while driving but let up on the pedal and and it drives normal with check engine light on. I have replaced both cam and crank sensors and the PCm but still does it sometimes. could it be a fuel pressure problem? I want to fix it not pay someone else. this issue is all over the internet on these cars.
Why did my concorde loose spark all together
This car has been well maintained, regular oil changes @every 3000 miles. Has always had 10-30 or 10-40 Pennsoil used in it. I am a fan of Castroil and would like to use it. Question is will changing to Castroil from Pennzoil cause any problems on this high milage engine? I have over hauled engines that have used Pennzoil, so I know that there is a lot of "varnish" and sludge. Will Castroil be a viable option? Also what about synthetic oil??
I got off the freeway today and my car wouldn't go passed 10 mph, but my rpms were hitting 3?
I have power to everything else but when I try to start it theres nothing...won't turn over, no clicking, nothing. Its very cold today, I dont know if that has anything to do with it. I had a friend give me a jump just to make sure it wasnt the battery.
I bought this car about a month ago it worked just fine tell a week ago when it started to snow and wouldnt start. I thought it was a frozen fuel line so I addeed some heet to the gas but didnt work so I changed the fuel punp and filter and still the same will crank but not start every now and then itll start but not stay on long. so I changed the crank position sensor and the throdle body sensor and still the same what is the problem?
Two mths ago my radiator split on the fan side of it. So naturally it was replace also replace fan (just in case) that was the problem n did thermostat water pump n belt an temp sensor an first time driven it ,within 10min it ran hot an then I didn't know I had to open bleeder screw ,, so drain out all antifreeze an open bleeder screw with engine running an now I can drive 30min an its slowly getting hot (wth) did I miss