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We have had nothing but problems with this money pit.. we have replace the transmission twice, the engine once, the radiator twice, water pump once and now the brake lights will not come on. the third brake light comes on but the others do not. we have replaced lights and fuses but nothing. we have been told that there is no abs sensor, we're stumped...

i still have over heating problem's on this car. water pump is good.

If these problems could be fixed affordably this could be the best car I've ever owned. Yesterday on the highway it got between 38-42 MPG which is extremely excellent fuel mileage for such a big car. So if I can get it fixed it's worth keeping. It has 127,XXX miles on it.
The biggest problem is that it runs absolutely fine on cool days below 73 degrees F. But any warmer than that and/or when the car is driven more than 20 minutes non stop then the car stalls and sometimes when I go to start it the engine knocks like crazy and is stuck at 500 RPM. Then 30 seconds or so it usually comes out of it and runs and sounds normal again. If I continue to drive in stop and go traffic on a hot day it may continue to stall and may or may not knock loudly. This happens when the temp gauge is reaching is in between the ¼ mark and the ½ mark. I have noticed if I turn on the heat full blast that reduces the engine temp which temporarily relieves the problem.
The other problem is my A/C. When I bought the car 2 years ago it worked really well. Now it doesn't work at all. I've tried adding R-134A and then sometimes it would work temporally but now that doesn't seem to do the job.
Does anybody know what could be causing these problems or have had these problems with there LHS and had them fixed? Any good information would be very much appreciated.

Seems like it only goes out during warm temperatures. Sometimes I can put on my headlights and the gauge light will come on.

need to know what is the best way to go about fixing this & how much it might cost?

i replaced thermostat and the water outlet bleeder vavle and i still have air trap in the system and still over heating check engine light for temperature circiut high input on could it be the water pump or im i bleeding it properly ive replaced the water pump year ago the engine overheats and the temp is at N O T only steam come out of the bleeder valve no coolant im bleeding it by the book its looks like its not circulating upper hose has pressure and resvior is full of coolant

if i take to a mechanic, how much would that be? with labor included of course. thanx

I drove about a 1/4 mile with my emergency brake on by accident, I noticed released the ER brake a coarse right away. My back rear tire was smoking really bad, dropped off my husband off at home, ran to the grocery store, & it seemed like it was still smoking, now I'm very worried that the back rear brake is locked up or something. What do I do? Is it going to be OK or do you think something is wrong with my back rear brake???

The abs and traction control lights started lighting up on our 207 Chrysler Town and Country touring. We were traveling along and the abs light went on. After parking for several hours and restarting the vehicle all was well for about 20 miles then the abs came on again. It did this for a couple of days but being the holiday weekend we can't get it in for service for several more days. Now last night the traction control light came on as well as the abs light. Today both came on immediately on start up. What might be the problem?

just need driver side head gasket replaced

While driving last night my speedometer was working, suddenly it went to 0 and then shortly after my car wouldn't shift.( i was in drive) this is a automatic 1999 3.8 liter engine. Is there some kind of fuse that would cause this?? Thanks Linda

l in it it would not restart.

a brand bew battery will go dead in amatter of 6 or 7 hours some shops say it might be a module but they want a lot money to fix it but wont give any kind guarancee thats the cause can you help please

The coil in my air conditioning condensor has gone out. How much does it cost to replace?

The charge light comes on normally after travelling for more than twenty miles. The check engine light flash pattern was 12 46 55. After restarting the car, the light would normally stay off for rest of the day. Voltage of battery was 12.4 when car not running and 14.0 when car is running.

if the heater moter is plugged ? would that make it over heat ? and where is it located ? or is it just a bad water pump.

air stopped blowing cold so put refrigerant in it and noticed a 1/2 inch gash in metal hose that comes off ac compressor. has this happened to amyone else or does amyone know why this would happen? also how do u get that hose off it goes into the carragie that houses the fan in the front bumper.

Hi, over the last few months my car stereo keeps shutting down down while playing the radio but mostly when I'm using the CD player, I have to shut the car off for it to restart. I am not sure if I have a short or need something replaced but my remote key chain stopped too. one last thing I have noticed that my clock is always been reset but my battery is good?
Any Ideas of what i need looked at would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks a Lot for your time.

1995 Chrysler LHS....My engine shows a 21 which is o2 sensor, a 23 which is intake air sensor and a 24 which is throttle position sensor. I have replace the TPS and have had o2 sensors replaced several times. I have reset codes several times. The car will run great when I leave for work in the morning. On the way home end of day I can barely make it home. Engine light comes on care barely runs very jerky as i am trying to keep going. Battery light will come on, temperature gauge will go crazy from cold to hot and back..smells very rich. If I make it home its a blessing. Start over next morning I can drive 40 minutes to work and it will run like a new car. I have had it happen in the middle of the day for a few miles then engine light goes off and car runs like new. Don't know where to go. The sensor codes it is showing cant seem to be the problem. Any ideas from abroad......?

my floor shifter was very stiff but after trying a few times i got it to go into reverse then into drove.than after a couple of days of not driving the car i went to drive it again i had the same problem this time the shifter went to low (L) and never went back to park. so after fighting with it i managed to get it to drive but the shifter was moving back and forth easliy what is wrong?

I have to reploace one inner and one outer tie rods. Should I also replace the other inner tie rod at the smae time?

I didn't see a catagory for Sebring convertibles and there are a lot of them on the road. I need to replace the motor that raises and lowers the convertible top. Can you help me with an estimate to do that? Thank You

just had engine replaced ac blows out defrost vents only fault code =mode door actuator feedback failure ???how to fix

car just didn't start one day. replaced starter (it was rough inside anyway) when i hooked a new battery up i noticed a strong spark off the negative. the panel says "no bus" after several tries. had a few transmision codes 740 and 700 after a few hundred miles from reseting at a trans shop, but no stored codes in now. left battery un hooked until i can figure out whats stoping the starter from turning over.

blower fan stays on high when you turn it off

how much should I pay for labor to install a water pump

replace water pump, timebelt,cranksensor,ECT, coil pack, fuelpump,sparkplugs,sparkplugwire,battery,mapsensor, coolingfan,EGRvalve,IAEmotor,

My key has turned off a couple times when driving. I had to put in nutral and start it again. I called the dealer and he says tha my model van is not on the recall list for this problem. He says do not put any other keys with me starter key. May be to heavy.
Well hopefully this does not hurt me and my family.

I have a 2002 sebring with thw dreaded 2.7l engine. I have had it for a year and a half and have gotten routine maintenance done on it . I went for my 60,000 mile check and evreything looked great. They replaced two belts and did the brake s. Everything checked out fine. Just about a month or two layter i suddenly had a knocking noise. I took it in they listend to it with the hood up and adjusted the throttle to hear it and said it is my rod bearing. I have had threee other mechanics tell me the sam e thing. I stopped driving it as soo n as the first mechanic told me it was rod bearing. The other day i had a compression test done on it and was told it was good . So that means no piston damage? Not sure what it means . I noticed a plug that was coated with a white residue and looked like a hook at the tip. Now I do not know a lot about cars but I was reading the book and did research online and it seems like maybe it is not my rod bearing? or at least could be something else? spark knocking or another cause...not sure ?? I was first told to replace the engine then saw how expensive it would be . then I was going to have mine rebuilt but if it is only the rod then it can be replaced with the engine still in the car. At this point is there more I can test that will not cost me much or do further damage to the engine?? This engine is prone to oil sludge even with regular maintenance .

we already scanned it but no codes show up.