Chevrolet Trailblazer QuestionsRefine by vehicle
When I stop and my ac or heater is on my engine will idel down or cut off completely. No codes are coming up and I have had the throttle body cleaned since replacing my battery and alternator. What else can I do?
The radio works great only sometimes. When it doesnt only the driver side front speaker works. Does anybody know what may be causing that?
replaced actuator motor and did relearn procedure and they still will not opperate, getting power at connector they motors seem to move out of range when turned on.
I have had this issue checked 3 times so far and again the check engine light came back on after having the issue "fixed" by the dealership. They said it was a faulty part at first. What the heck is going on here. I just purchased the truck 3 weeks ago?
wiggle floor shifter and push button on shift handle and then lock will turn little more and key will release.I am thinking the park lock actuator located in the center console is bad.
what do i need to do to remove an ignition lock cylinder on a chevy trailblazer 02
im having troube removin it...
have over 10 characters in exp. why can't I get through?
Our trailblazer has a constant ticking noise under hood that is very loud and shakes and vibrates when start up car and at stoplights...been told a couple thousand to repair the lifter.
I believe it is my front right wheel bearing
Can the passenger side through off seven codes?
I tried bleeding my breaks in the rear but i am not getting and fluid back there. i did run the resivor dry could that be the problem?
6 cyl, two wheel drive, positive traction. I have owned it from the beginning. This Blazer has been garage kept.
Here is the problem. In this past year, there are many times that the breaking behavior on this Blazer is unexplainable.
Most of the time the braking works perfectly. Depresses down about half way to the floor, breaking is gentle, smooth and feels right. Other times it begins to pulsate as if I have a compromised rotor. The brake pedal is hard and doesn’t travel down as normal. Sometimes the pulsating just starts while I just driving. A bumping or pulsations which I can feel in the steering wheel, brake pedal and just overall in the vehicle. There have been times when I have to “punch” the break pedal, even when I am driving at speeds of 55 miles an hour to get the pulsating to stop. It is as if something in the brakes system is not releasing and/or just starts the breaking pulsating unexplainable. The only correction has been to stop the car and restart and the pulsating problem goes away and it seems right again.
I have had the brake calipers checked. They are well lubed and move freely, boots are in good condition. The behavior seemed like the ABS is trying to work for no reason at all. I was thinking that this was the problem. So, I pop out the fuse for the ABS.... This left my ABS & traction control, panel lights on and indicating the ABS is disabled.
The problem still occurs from time to time. So now I’m thinking there is something wrong with the computer which governs the whole braking system.
I would like to have some insight in to the possible problem. I have been to many auto service and dealerships service centers over my 45 years of driving.
Just to get jerked around by folks who can’t figure out a problem, and just starts to replace very expensive parts trying to eliminate the issue at a high cost to me.
I can’t afford this route. Just need to know what other possible reasons could cause my issue.
Only the passenger seat is affected and the up/down and seat back functions still work.
Why would the tie rods be in such terrible condition?
Is there a history of this problem and is there a recall?
When I drive over a speed bump I hear squick come from the left wheel
its only happened one other time, and it was also cold out then as well, aftre further investigation i found that the bolts on my plastic valve cover were loose. could this happen all the time? and how do i keep it from happening again?
For about 6 months now when I first start the car and go to take off the stability light with wrench comes on along with the traction assist light, if I turn the car off and restart it the light will go off, the last few days it will just come on while I am driving. I have read some post that talks about the steering wheel sensor may need replaced, is this a possibility, how do you know for sure and how do you change the sensor, I have found the sensor at autozone for about 120.00
Mechanic said it had 4x4 troubles. I put it on ice and throttled up, seemed solid. Lil grease on lft front rotor may cause excess abs noise ? are these ok outfits? We need a vehicle and i believe we can get a deal on this one.
I took my blazer in because my instrument cluster failed, they replaced it, and we noticed around 1500rpm it would make a noise I can only say sounds like a cow mooing. We complained, and left our TB with them for over a week, and they say they tried 6 different instrument clusters and all of them made the same sound. I find it hard to believe that all GM remanufactured insturment clusters make the same sounds. The sounds is driving me nuts, any answers?
Some told me about thermostat but gauge shows normal
I asked a friend who works on vehicals everyday and he said it was the EGR valve, but the model I have dose not have a EGR valve, what could be the cause, I do have a check engine light on. This only happens at Highway speed, when the trailblazer has made it's final shift, and we are cruzing. Just want to know a little before I get the run around at the shop!
i need change the valve cover gasket, already loso all bolt below but nothing is coming off do i missing something
all gauges are irradicate
OK HAD A DEALER REPLACE THE ECM ON MY TB A LITTLE OVER A YEAR AGO SAID IT WAS JUST OUT OF WARRANTY AND SO ON. SO ABOUT A MONTH LATER STARTED THROWING CODES IN AND OUT OF SHOP SEVERAL TIMES WITH NO FIXS ABOUT TWO WEEKS AGO IN THE FIRST COLD SPELL CAR SHUT OFF AND WOULD NOT RESTART AFTER TROWING PARTS AT IT ON SEVERAL CODES WAS RUNNING FINE UNTILL TEMP DROPED BELOW FREEZING AGAIN. NOW THROWING A P0601 CODE INT CONTROL MODULE MEMORY CHECK SUM ERROR? AFTER RESEARCH EVERYTHING POINTS TO REPLACEING THE PCM. IS IT AND THE ECM THE SAME THING AND DOES IT NEED TO BE PROGRAMED AFTER BEING REPLACED IM BEING TOLD THAT I CAN GET A ECM AT AUTOZONE AND THEY CAN PROGRAM WITH MY VIN # TO THE SPECS. IT NEEDS TO BE BUT I THOUGHT A PCM AND A ECM WAS TO DIFFERANT MODULES?
ONLY DOES IT WHEN COLD LIKE BELOW FREEZING AFTER IT DIES TURN THE KEY AND THERE IS NOTHING. CHECK ENGINE LIGT IS ON POWER DOWN LIGHT AND TRACTION CONTROL LIGHTS ARE ALL ON WHEN IT WILL NOT START. BATTERY GOOD NEW ALTNATOR CLEANED THROTTLE BODY. I RECENTLY CHANGED MY WHEEL HUB ASSY. THATS WHEN THE TROUBLE STARTED. BEFORE I CLEANED THROTTLE BODY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WAS ON AND THROWING CODES P0014, P0506, P1400 AND WAS IDELING RUFF AND STALLING CLEANED THROTTLE BODY AND RAN THE BEST IT EVER HAD THEN TEMPS DROPED IT STARTED THIS AND ITS NOT LIKE ITS LOSSING POWER AND DYING IT JUST SHUTS OF I WAIT A FEW SEC. WITH THE KEY REMOVED THEN REINSERT IT WILL START AND MAY RUN FOR A MIN THEN SAME THING. ANY LEADS ON WHAT TO CHECK WOUL BE APPRICIATED.
can i do it myself, does it have to be programed or is a junk yard one ok
The check engine light is on and then it blinks and runs bad then it goes on solid after a few seconds and runs fine again
I cannot pass inspection due to a cracked neck on my gas tank. The check engine light was reset to off. I was told to drive the car another 100 miles and to bring it back in. The check engine light was off, but I failed inspection again. The car has 95,000 miles on it and I want to sell it versus putting out $1000 to replace the tank.
Any recommendation is appreciated. Is their anything that I can add to the gas tank which would seal the leak and allow me to pass inspection?