173
questions

it happened when I punched the gas

When driving over 35 mph the engine temperature seems to be fine. Once I come to a complete stop the temperature starts going up. Once the temperature gauge needle reaches the half point the fan noise gets very loud when I accelerate & the truck looses a lot of power. Slowly the needle starts creeping higher and higher until I start driving over 35mph again. There are no leaks. Coolant level is at its normal level. I also checked the radiator cap & looks fine. The thermostat seems to be working as well. Also there is no white smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe. The Suburban has 45,000 original miles on it. Please help thanks

Hi,my rear heater is blowing cold air.I took it to a shop,they told me it's the heater core,so i change it,a $ 300 job.
But it's still not working all the time.They told me to press on the gas pedal to send hot coolant to the back for it to work but still it's not working.Does anyone know what's wrong with it?
Winter is very close now and i have small kids.i would really appreciate if someone could help.
Thanks
Krish

I'm looking for a replacement power booster and I don't know which it is. When looking up parts it's states for use with a particular JH system. How do I find this? I have a 2004 Chevrolet suburban 2500 4x4 6.0l.

Would the crank positio sensor stop it from starting if it got that hot. Pwm was relocated to front bumper long ago. New heads,waterpump,fan clutch,radiater, coolant temp sen,air intake temp sensor all before this overheat suggestions on why it won't start. It turns over and there is fuel no codees on scan gauge iii

I turn it on and it turns on then off in like 30 seconds

My speedometer stop working on me

any advice on changing it also

I have a full floating axle. As far as i know i need to reamove the tires then i have to take off the 8 bolts around so i can pull out the axle. what i dont know is if ill have to get into the differential to remove any types of pins or locks.

no error lights

The ABS light is still on after replacing brakes.

truck will start fine, but will not shift, like the lock is still engaged, also when it will not shift the key will not turn off. This started about a week ago and is getting progressively worse. I see fixes for trucks with tilt wheels, mine is a non tilt base truck. any fixes for this?

Ever since the dealer replaced my instrument cluster, the engine light will flash above 65 MPH if driven at a constant speed (random misfire). If I drive at various speed going from 60 to 70 back and forth, its fine. I took it to the dealer (another), and they can not find anything wrong with it. I had them replace the wire and plug, still no help. One old mechanic told me that when they replace the instrument cluster, they did not recalibrate the crankshaft. Could this be the problem? Been driving below 65 MPH for the last year. Can anyone help?

you can feel it drop in but don't move

I need to buy an actuator and gear for the defrost blend door. What part numbers and how do I do it?
Thanks

Is this engine fuel injected?

transmission wants to slip periodically

fuel pump is good every couple days its starts surging in park it work little better always plenty of gas never dies when cold cathlya cconverter egr 0nly 100,000 miles old wash state prison truck maybe old booty in gas tank starts

My 02 Suburban has a buzz/hum when i take off from a stop and @2500-3000 rpm. It has 111000 miles on it. A buddy if my said it may be the cats but it sounds metal-on-metal.

So any advice would help, thanks.

am mech have own shop been at this for days

I bought the truck used and the DIC does not work, checked for dtcs and none were found except for the auto ride, maybe some one disconected the lamp? Lamp burned out? all the gauges work and the truck runs great!

INSTALLED A NEW TRANSFER CASE AND THE CODE THAT COMES UP IS CO306-MOTOR A/B CIRC MALFUNCTION. CO 321 T/C LOCK CIRC FAULT .... AND CO 327 ENCODER CIRCUIT MALFUNTION. THE SUV JUMPS AND HOPS ALMOST AS IF THERE ARE DIFFERENT SIZE TIRES OR THE WRONG GEAR RATIO IN IT . USEING THE SCANNER TO ACTIVATE THE 4X4 SWITH EVERTHING APEARS TO TO FUNTION PROPER. THE TRANSFER CASE OUTPUT SPEEDS ON THE HOIST RUN ALMOST PAR. WHEN YOU GO FOR A DRIVE ON THE PAVEMENT THE REAR READS 1080 AT 40 KM AND THE FRONT READS 850 AND HOPS AND JUMPS . ANY HELP FOR AN AREA TO LOOK AT OR IF ANYONE HAS HAD A SIMILAR SITUATION WOULD BE GREATLY APREACATED. THANKS FOR THE TIME.

It is in the lock position and won't turn to the start position, so i can't push the release pin

i have replaced the pmd 3 times still shuts down could it be the lift pump? i also know it could be the oil sending sending unit.

We have already diagnosed the truck with starting fluid Ignition works but immediately quits. Incidentally no headlight power to the main switch? ODB port also has no power, I suspect it is through a power circuit short or relay problem but i also suspect the shifter itself, i tried finding neutral in it and turning motor but wont engage started. There seems to be excessive play in the shifter on the tree... 2-3" in park, i havent driven or worked on a chevy of its like since 2000 since then ive stuck to 1990-1993 fords with straight six's any inpuit would be appreciated

solo lo hace cuando llueve y la camioneta se moja al otro dia no arranca y si llueve todo el dia pues no arranca mientras no se moje funciona normalmente pasan dias o meses sin llover y la camioneta no falla espero pudieran orientarme que hacer gracias.