Chevrolet Suburban 1500 Questions
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at midnight on two consecutive Thursdays, my horn has gone off and stuck. I had to disconnect battery to stop it.
When I try to turn the signal or the flashers on I get nothing. dome lights used to come on when the door opened now it does not come one at all not even when I push the buttons for them. Is there one fuse that would cause all of these things to stop working? I checked all of the individual fuse and they all seemed fine.
when started for the first time morning loud clicking sound. It sound like the valves but let it run for about 3minutes it goes away.
the evaporator (leaks radiator water coolant)i bypassed heater coolant hose temperarily.need instructions on how to replace evaperator coil
engine code p405
I am trying to find the exact location of an oil sending unit on a 1991 Chevy Suburban Siverado with a 5.7 L 350. I recently had a major oil leak that we found and replaced. It was leaking from the top of the oil filter housing that is attached to the bottom of the block. The o-ring had busted and was replaced fairly easily. We took filter off, drained oil, two screws holding adapter and housing to block. Now I need to locate the oil sending unit to replace it because my gauge is going crazy with wrong readings as well. Can anybody show me with pics where the hell this unit is? Thanks!!!
Only while accelerating.Quits when coasting
no power when taking off
I've encountered a knocking noise. At first I thought it was the transmission but have found out it's coming from a section of the exhaust pipe; after it comes out of the engine, in an area that appears "flattened" before it goes on down to the muffler. It rattles when idling and at normal speed and lessens during higher rpm. I've read somewhere that it could be a loose baffle, but I'm not sure. Is this easy to replace? I can turn a wrench, but I haven't been able to find any information online regarding the 2001 exhaust so I'm not sure specifically where/what to look for. Thanks!
price on parts and labor for rear and front brakes, pads, and brake rotors,
My Service Engine Light in yellow comes on along with a message to Tighten Fuel Cap. I have replaced the fuel cap. How do i get these to stop?
seemingly simple question, on the v8 in my chevy truck, which cylinder is cylinder 3 ? How are they numbered ? Is it standard in some way, like: odds on right, evens on left, ascending toward the front of the car ?
The high and low steady speeds work all the time when turned to that position....intermittent setting does not. If you turn it to intermittent it wipes once and stops..kick it up a notch or down a notch..works once and stops. Yesterday came on all by itself and washed the windshield 2 or 3 times by itself. Simply you have lo and hi speeds...no intermittent.
when i put it in four wheel drive it wont engage
Oil leaking at rear of engine
i have 3 codes showing
c0267 pump motor open circuit
c0265 electronic brake control module motor relay circuit
c0223 right front wheel speed signal erratic
whatdo i do
I got a 2010 Chevy Suburban, I got after market rims (22) on it and got the tire sensor put in the aftermarket rims also. I need to go on a road trip, can I put the stocks back on without the tire sensor? Someone told me without the sensor I won't be able to drive over 40 mph. Someone else told me the check tire light will come on but it doesn't effect anything else. Which is correct?
my suburban is having problems with the braking system. recently only the front bakes are operating on my vehicle. Subsequently I took them to a repair shop to bleed all lines and had the master cylinder replaced and the rear drums adjusted. I thought this would take care of the problem but it did not. Can anyone help.
When I first start the engine in the morning the truck starts to make a loud knocking sounds, like lifters are not getting any oil. the gauge reads "no pressure" after a 5 or 10 seconds, the noise starts to die down and the oil pressure gauge shoots up to 35, 40 and stays at around 45 lbs of pressure. I replace the oil regularly, and use the same oil weight the manual recommends. The truck only has 134 thousand miles. I'am thinking of just replacing the oil pump see if that will solve the problem but i can't just go in there replacing parts to see if that will fix it. Just want to replace the bad part if possible. Thanks
Just replaced the diode for the DRL on thecross bar under the dash, the lights havent been working for some time.
Brought my sub in for inspection. Shop called and said I need to replace the idler and pitman arms. Time-2 1/2 hrs, cost- $450.00. Does this sound correct?
my turn signal lights just started to freeze up and stop clicking when I apply the brakes, they work ok as long as I don't use the brakes, sometimes you can move the signal bar up and down quickly when the brakes are applies and it catches on but only for a couple of blinks then it freezes up again- does this have anything to do with the relay switch? I changed out the fuses and this did not help.
Can the heater hose connected to the rear of the manifold be connected to the water pump top outlet instead ? The other hose is connected to the Radiator.
Will it interchange with 1989 Silverado?
Every time I shift out of park, into any gear, the fuse for the dome lights and the back up lights blows out. We've replaced it and replaced it. As soon as you put it in gear, it blows again. We have replaced or checked every single fuse inside and under the hood. Any suggestions
repacking my front 4x4 manual hubs, I have two castle nuts and one locking washer... castle, washer, castle or castle, castle, washer?
elect/locks will not open rear doors or hatch, will open front(2). I replaced & reprogramed the remote batteries, no change. Is there a recall? How can I open the rear hatch manually? How can I repair the failing parts? thanks, chuck
K1500 Suburban with 220K miles. Starting to have some issues but has been a problem free engine for 10 years. Local mech. ran quick diagnostic - P0300 (random misfire), P0420 & 430 (Cat. Converter below threshold)
All good and well but his recommendation was to replace ALL of the coil-packs and plugs. - Seriously??
Prior to having test run, rough idle was occasional, check engine light was on, so I took it in. Since test, rough idle is constant and worse than ever. I can feel the misfire, sometimes bad, others hardly noticeable. Has not progressed to the point of stalling, but it won't be a surprise when it does. At 220K miles, I am not prepared to spend a fortune with a dealer/mech., but love this truck and want to keep it on the road. Can someone help me the "try this first" list of things to consider?
My ABS light came on in my truck, this caused the vehicle to slow up when I hit a bump or even stall the vehicle on occassion, then the engine the check engine lights comes on and the reading says reduce engine power and the vehicle loses power can the wheel speed sensor on the rear cause this problem.
My truck is an automatic with a 4L60E tranny, it slipped out of gear today and will not move now. A couple months ago it had started making a tapping and grinding type sound. That sound had stopped a couple weeks ago. The truck was running smooth and today, it quit. What should I check first?