672
questions

200 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD won't start. Outside temp is not really an issue. Ran fine yesterday. This morning it cranked but wouldn't turn over. Tried turning the key three times and it finally worked. Now it won't start again. It sounds like it will turn over then it just doesn't.

I have had the worst luck with cars. Lately every single car I get into has broken in someway, shape, or form. I really hope it is just a dead battery.

If anyone knows anything or has an idea of what it could be please help!!

? Intermediate shaft, pitman arm? Someone suggested putting the expanding foam into shat and reassemble?

Or just glovebox less chance of rattling post repair

It also leaks out of valve stem used tool to tighten seems to have resolved valve stem portion of the issue

02 b1-s1 = 69% at 0.885v
02 b1-s2 = 51% at 0.655v
02 b2-s1 = 67% at 0.855v
02 b2-s2 = 63% at 0.80v
short term fuel trim b1 -31.3
short term fuel trim b2 -31.3
items new in the past year injectors #28,plugs and wires,MAF,MAP,and intake gasket

Before cat replacement not power and the p0300 at 70 miles per hour

Blue indicator light does not come on and dash light and reverse lights do not work. What could be the problem?

When I decelerate from any speed or I'm coming to a stop the truck makes a sound comparable to a plastic bottle in a bike spoke. I took it to a local shop and they told me the transfer case is slipping into neutral. I had another man look at it and he checked, with the truck on but not cranked, that the 4wd shifts on and off just fine. We are about to move across country and will be hauling horses. Can anyone tell me if they've had this happen and what it could be. It does have a new transmission.

My 2011 Silverado – Turbo, Duramax - diesel is having a problem with the 'Check Engine Light" coming on with error p20e2. I have taken it to a Chevy Dealership on 4 occasions, each time they tell me it is an error with one of the sensors and that there is nothing wrong with the exhaust gas temp.

Other than ignoring the ‘Check Engine Light” each time it comes on, what can I do to resolve this issue?

what would cause transmission fluid to leak from the breather on top of the transmission. it is not overfull.

I have checked grounds under the driver side door. Will not shift into 4wd. No lights on buttons

poor idle
new fuel pump and exhaust gasket
3 guttted cats
no spacer on downstream side

Recently changed my alternator now I have a code. Don't remember the ex act code, but the description is " generator terminal F circuit " any ideas on what this is and how I can fix it?

hey guys i just bought this truck and it seems too be a sensor is bad i just dont know what to go about checking first i am very mechaniclly inclined. truck starts from a traffic light fine until im going about 40-50mph if i go to step on the gas the rpms just raise and sit at one spot and the truck doesnt gain speed. i have to let off the gas then hit it again. only does it when my foot is almost to the floor going to pass somebody

in the haynes manual i can not even find mention of this part. the part itself mounts to the inside of the frame just in front of the wheel, and also just behind the wheel. it has two bolts, one on each end that enter the center of a large round rubber piece that sits inside of the frame with a nut and washer on the outside . the axle shaft tube has two bolts on the top that mount to the underside of this part. my problem is that i cannot find mention or even a picture to reference how this part is supposed to look when seated correctly in the mount hole just behind the tire. i need to know the name of the part and would like to know how far inside the frame the bolt behind the wheel is supposed to sit. on my truck this bolt and also the rubber piece, along with the metal tube it sits in look to be just about ready to literally fall out! if possible i would like to find out as much as possible about this part, like the name of it , correct seating position, what might cause it to come out, and mostly how to reset it or get it back in. this is the first time i have ever seen this part out like this, and i come from a line of mechanics, grandpa, dad , and uncles... none can help me. please assist!!!

Right now my truck shows less than half a tank filled. I went to 2 different chevron stations and the pumps at both stations clicked off prematurely at 1-2 gallons filled. When I got my trucks oil done they put a fuel cleaner in. could that have caused this to happen or are chevrons pumps the issue?

The left front is the only issue. I replaced two bearings and a speed sensor. I used top quality parts. Front end is tight. all new ball joints, tie rods inner and outer as well as front brakes.
The front passenger side was worn more than the drivers side because the ABS fires on that side every time when stopping.

truck shifts fine with normal driving,

has rattle noise at full rpm coming from exhaust, hard shift, let off throttle, then hit at wot, dead miss,

passenger side of truck is extremely hot on floor board

replaced:
injectors
plugs
wires
some coil pack
intake gaskets
knock sensor
maf
cam sensor
crank senor
oil pressure sensor
full 4wd service-flush
sway bar bushings
oil cooler lines
new cluster

I have no brakes and no power stering what can be the problem

Off and on after driving for several minutes at low speeds my engine suddenly stops. No lights come on and my repairman says there are no computer codes when checked.

It has 92000..would it help to flush it and replace filters and is this sound common in this transmission

Head a clank noise motor won't start