1,707
questions

a c and heater only comes out the bottom will not come out vents

Driving in 2wd transfer case slips to neutral but 2wd light stays on.(I'm assuming neutral bc the truck quits pulling). If I reverse, it slips out immediately but driving in foreward it may take some time. If I try to lock it in 4 low, it clunks loudly a few times then quits trying. (4 low won't engage.) I brought it to the mechanic who scanned it for codes and there are none. This is a remanned case replicating the exact problems as the old case. I tried an encoder from the mechanics shop but it did the same thing.

have a 5.3L motor serial #XJB10XJBW983451315 and need to find out it I can use it in my '05 Silverado 1500

drove for 3 hours let it set for 8 hours starts shuts right off then wont start just cranks let set for few min starts shuts right off wont stay running

4 wheel drive
5.3 V8 engine
66000 miles

2003 K1500 4WD
Vortec 5300
5.3 liter V8 Engine
Fuel Injection
Automatic 4 SPD
Electronic Trans Catalyst
Feedback Fuel System

Light bulbs not burnt out.

It has a rough idle at cold temperatures (below 10°F), I tried replacing the pcv valve and fuel line filter, as well as checked the air intake sensor, and the problem still exists. Any suggestions??

This is the second time changing the blower motor and blower resistor with parts bought from O'Reillys. I am unsure at this point if I need GM parts and if it would solve my problem. Currently in the mornings when starting my truck the fan will not kick in. After driving or letting the truck run for 10 minutes or more the fan will kick in and give me heat. It seems like with the colder temperatures this has become worse. I have replaced the blower motor, blower resistor, check for moisture, and I'm just puzzled.

I have failed inspection because of evap monitor not ready have no light on, had replaced o2 sensor and disconnected battery but completed drive cycle after wards. since repair put on over 300 mile not ready still reads on evap monitor.

it idles normal then slow then back to normal? and when I stop it wants to l like lunge forward? I have to hold the brakes! 5.3 ltr engine v8. my dtc code says faulty knocking sensors? not sure if there is something else wrong before replacing sensors never had this issue before?

I have a link to my video of what my truck does when I start it. I don't think it is the gauge cluster, I think something is shorting, and causing the dash to get power, then stop, then get power and then stop. The overhead seat belt warning light also flashes. The turn signals work, but sometimes the clicking of the flasher doesn't sound. This only happens for about 3 - 4 minutes and then the rest of the day the truck works fine no matter how many times you start it. Go to you tube and type in 2009 Chevy Silverado Dash Lights. Let me know what you think. Battery and both battery cables have been replaced with new.

Truck does not start in A.M. without jumping it. Starts fine the rest of the day. With ALL systems turned off, something is drawing over 700 amps from the battery. What is drawing the amps?

morning startup will start right up but very ruff idle rpm's up&down step accel up let off still ruff after engine warms up idle ok

Ive replaced
coil-ign crtl mod-cap & rotar
Plugs n wires-
cam shft sen
crank sensor-
mas flow sen
Fuel pump
After all that show po300 code...
Can some one enlighten me please

We are not sure what the problem is, when we got it bluetooth didn't work and no sound coming from speakers, radio worked and that was it. Dealer fixed it and now today ontop of yesterdays voltage dropping, radio on its' own switched to aux mode and wouldn't exit mode, even after turning radio off. About hour later, drove it again radio worked fine, have not had any issues with voltage dropping, but only been driving a mile or so today and everyother day. Except yesterday I drove it 2 hours out of town and back, afyer 20 minutes thats when voltage dropped and remained dropped. Also, I have no dash engine/problem lights. Was told my truck should have had a battery indicator light that was suppose to have triggered yesterday. Has not thrown any codes or any dash indicator lights. Any ideas what's wrong? It has fact dr34 alternator, was told to switch to dr44 and we think the ECM or BCM might be another problem.