1,680
questions

Not sure if the problem due to bad actuator, switch, or something else. What would this cost to fix in labor and parts. Can this be done myself?

have electronic door locks, Will not open from inside or outside, key does not work. was able to partially remove inside door panel and checked both horizontal rods which seem to be intact. checked fuses ( seem ok ).

It won't move after you put it into gear front or back. do not understand why.

Passenger blows cold. My rear defrost won't work and the hot and cold controls don't work. The speed of the fan is the only thing that does work

change rear brake shoes n silinders now they blow out when bleeding or not till the truck is runing

trying to remove and replace the fuel line assemply runs from tank to injectors

Back light is dim on each end( looks like a bulb out) and oil gauge sticks works than won't, same with speedometer. On and off operation.

cuando lo acelero a fondo no responde

engine light was on and that is the code it threw so I replaced the part. Light goes off-truck screams down the road. Yesterday afternoon get in the truck drive about 5 miles light comes back on so I pull over hook up my Actron and it gives me the same damn code-Accelerator pedal position sensor. So I get under the hood, jig and shake everything, fire it up, light still on. About 5 miles down the road light goes off and hasn't come back on since. What the heck? What's your opinion? This is driving me nuts.

My chevy silverado rear brakes have single calipers (plungers ?). I replaced the pads and rotor on the left rear (this is the wheel that came off as I was driving 57 mph). My plunger was leaking before I torqued it back in with a 'C' clamp. I lost a fair amount of brake fluid on the ground. My brakes are on, I put the wheel back on and when I drive it, I have brakes but the pedal goes down close to the floor when I brake. It stops me all the way and I have room to stick my left toes under the brake pedal when I am completely stopped. So I need to bleed this rear brake. I can't find a bleeder valve on the caliper.

when I turn on my left turn signal, the emergency flashers come on. It doesn't always happen but does seem to be getting worse, any ideas? I looked for a turn signal relay and can't find it?

Codes for tps/pedal position come up. I need engine light off.

s so I can drain the radiator. Please advise? Sorry I ask so many questions--I'm a girl trying to do most of this by myself. Thanks

cleared p0507 code relearned truck holds rpm below 1000rpm then rpm jumps up check engine light comes back on.

all four wheel on the ground it fell lick the transfer case is still on 4 hi

I see the spider gears wore out but no other damage so trying to get by inexpensive as possible

Service 4wd message Diagnostic code CO327 and CO379

I CHECKED PCV SYSTEM ALL LOOKS GOOD IS THE VALVE COVER WHERE PCV HOSE CONNECTS THE PROBLEM I READ THAT THIS HAS A BAD DESIGN AND CAUSES THIS ISSUE I HAVE 117K MILES AND ALWAYS USED VALVOLINE SYN. OIL

p0507 did relearn no help.

is the brake light switch connected to brake pedal

Had relay switch for heater replaced last year. only use heater in winter time as it is usually warn here in spring and summer. lately i've seen vapor coming from vents when heater is cut off. windows have fogged up, seen water/liquid leak slowly in passenger floorboard. truck ran hot once last week, but after i pulled over and let it cool down 20 min, temp went back to normal. monitored and added antifreeze to vehicle and vehicle runs in normal temperature range. currently saving money to have core replaced, but truck is my only vehicle. worried about engine going out by prolonging repair. any advice? only been seeing vapor from vents for about a week.

lts and maybe somebody could figure out why I have been having all these starting problems for so long.

-Key turned to "ON" position-no pressure
-1st crank-no start
-2nd crank-starts hesitantly and chugs until pressure is built.

This test was run on a cold engine.

sure regulator. Where is it located? Haynes, Chilton, Yahoo, Google and every parts store in Houston have given me a different location for the fuel pressure sensor and different instructions on how to replace it! please help

what do I need to do to fix it?

i have pin hole in exhaust manifold, need to replace('03 f-150). should i replace with stock manifold or upgrade to header type? what's ur opinion.

p is hesitant to start except on cold days or the first start of the day. After a day of stop and go errands or when the weather is really hot it may take as many as 4 cranks before it kicks over. It runs like a scared rabbit once it starts. No engine light, no hesitant acceleration, no engine light on, no codes when scanned. Do I get bad gas mileage? Well, gas prices are out of site, I drive a V8 crew cab and live in Houston, Texas. Anyway, I do not or have not seen any huge fluctuation in my fuel consumption. Here's the kicker--it has been doing this for 5 years. I had one vacuum leak-fixed it, I've changed all relays, fuses and the ignition switch. So I decided it must be the fuel pump but after 5 years it seems like it would have quit on me by now. I've been every where and talked to everybody about this and still have no solution. What do you think?

I never had static in my Bose sound system. I bought a bug guard and installed it, I now get static in the sound system. Even with the system off, the static still comes through the speakers. Remove the bug guard, static goes away. What would cause this. Thanks.....

I replaced the infamous stem mounted switch that controls the haul/tow function and the tranny still will not go into haul mode. The new wiring appears intact. The original switch when removed had the wires broke as is common on this failure. Prior to replacing the switch I tried jumpering the 2-pin contact to see if it would go into haul mode. This was not successful in getting the tranny to flip to haul mode. I replaced the switch anyway. Is there a module mounted on the tranny that I can jumper or troubleshoot? If the switch is operating what next to check? Also, could my jumpering the switch caused a problem?
Thanks

When I turn on the left turn signal, both left and right signals come on. It doesn't always do it,it seems to be intermittent but I've noticed it works well for a few weeks and then acts up a few times before fixing itself. Thanks for any support.41000 miles is all my truck has on it.....

Fuel tank is full but gauge reads empty. No low fuel light just gauge reads empty. I have power going to the tank, I checked that. Any ideas? Could my gauge be bad? I know silverados have gauge cluster issues. My truck is a 04 and only has 41000 miles on it. Thanks for any support....
P.S. no codes have come up ......