Chevrolet Metro Questions
Get answers to questions about your Chevrolet Metro at RepairPal. Find solutions, diagnose problems and get back on the road.Refine by vehicle
My boyfriends friend got mad one day and slamed oir trunk that had a sticky latch, and it wouldn't click. He slamed it so hard at one point that he snapped the latch off. We can't get in thru the trunk but the back seat. Its kinda hard when you have a bunch of baby stuff and you can't pile anything on too of ea ch other so the car is rather cramed
While driving, the ability to accelerate disappeared. At first I thought it was the engine, but when I pulled over the engine was still running. There was no noise at all when this happened just a loss of acceleration. No movement in drive or reverse or L1, L2...
Which Mark on cam do you use for timing belt. There are two marks. Didn't disconnect any electronics. Please help. Thanks.
i have a 98 metro 1.3l 4 cylander
When my 98 geo 5speed with 1.0 gets real cold it won't start just cranks over after u push it inside and it warms up it starts fine enyone have an idea
I just wonder if any of these sensors are bad, but i don't have a check engine light on it just they dosen't finish their cycle still flashing in the obd II reader and dtc present. thanks
I was told I my starter is going out even though it's new
NEW ALTINATER AND IT STILL LOOSES POWER I CHECKED FUSES UNDER THE HOOD AND THE FUSE BOX BY THE DOOR.
I stoped at stop sigh and when i started to drive off,it sounded like it jumped out of gear and started to grind.Grinds in all forward gears and reverse.Also while in park the car is like it is in neutral and will roll
looks like a bearing race on my torque converter keeps dumping trans fluid on ground.. ive pulled motor 3 times do to this what do i do now?
We had the battery checked and it is good, even bought a new battery and tried that. While the engine was running, we have removed both battery cables and the engine continues to run. If we turn off the engine, it will not crank unless jump-started again. What else can I check?
What type of fluid to use, Can you drain the converter, how many quarts of fluid with the converter drained and without, how to properly check the fluid level.
Thank you: Modocker
a few days ago I went to start my car to go to work but it would not start the engine is getting electrical power and the starter is doing its job but it does not crank. It has 88K miles.
The main pulley on my metro moved about a quarter inch out and now the belts wont stay on. I tried to move it back into position by loosening the bolt, but it wont budge. The car only had 120k on it and runs great besides now
2000 Chevy Metro LSI 4cyl automatic. While driving, engine slows like it's flooding, the Service Engine Soon light starts flashing, then suddenly surges foward and accelerates normally. May not do it again for days. If this happens at a stop sign, the engine sometimes stalls, but always cranks back up with no problem. Is it the oxygen sensor needs replacing? Thanks.
just need to know how boot under coil pack comes off ,, if just held by a lip or what
It seems like it always starts when it's cold in the morning. Then we'll drive it for 5-10 miles, then let it sit for 15-20 minutes or more, try to start it and it just cranks. Just turns over and nothing happens. At first it wouldn't happen every time, but now it is happening most times we drive it. It seems like then, we let it cool down for about 5 or 10 minutes and then finally it starts. The temperature outside here in Tucson is about 75 degrees. When it was cooler out it didn't seem to happen. Now maybe it has nothing to do with the temperature. Maybe it is just getting worse. Any advise, please.
Recently our Metro would not start.Even after an attempted jump start...no luck. Our mechanic diagnosed a failed starter and recommended replacing and older and weakening battery.Both items were replaced. One week later it is acting the same way. Any help would be appreciated.
my car is loosing speed going uphill, and the check engine light is on.
Ok I got a two part question for anyone who can anwser them first i have a 98 metro and when the vehicle is warmed up, I get in to start it and it turns over but will not start I turn it off and continue to try it for a couple minutes before it will start I've replaced fuel pump, strainer, spark plugs, wires, distriputor cap, and rotor what else can i do? Second question is when i'm at high speeds on interstate whenever my foot slips off gas peddle I loose all power to the engine The car slowes down and after a few seconds it kicks back in any suggestions
where is the crank sensor located
this is the 1.3 sohc 16 valve engine. The owner said the cam reluctor was damaged and replaced. But there is no key pin or marks to show proper alignment on the cam. What is it timed with and how?
I have a 1999 Chevy Metro Lsi with 1.3 liter four cylinder. I have an after-market hood without the stock information, so i do not have the spark plug gaping info which I need. I also would like a recommendation on which brand of plug to use and the reasons for it.
my car has this sound coming from the brakes,sounds like gravel in it,I take to my macanic,he says theres nothing there,any idea any one?
Code p0300,random misfire.The car has new coil pack,new wires and plugs,new timing belt,all sensors have been replaced except for crank positioning sensor,I have my doubts thats the problem or the code would be different.
headlights not coming on - highbeam work/running lights work/replaced bulb and fuses. Is this an electical problem, radio works, heat/air conditioner works. Car drives fine.
When i bought the car, my trunk lock was broken. I haven't been able to find one anywhere online. Does anyone know where i can find one at?
Idle started going up and down worst when head lights in on position. Then service engine soon light came on. took car too jiffy lube hooked up to computer came up p0400
I was in a accident that caused my engine to overheat, and stall. I took it to the shop and they informed me that they would need to change the thermostat in order to see if there is any internal damage to the engine. I understand this process, but was told it would cost around $305 to do so. According to repairpal.com, it would only cost around $120 at most. I am trying to see if there is a reason for the large difference in cost. Whether it has to do with them doing more tests, or they are just trying to rip me off.