Chevrolet Metro QuestionsRefine by vehicle
My 1999 Metro just quit running one day. It is a 1.3L, manual trans. It has a distributorless ignition system. There is no spark. Engine turns normally, there is gas, there is compression. With the key in the on position it blows a 15A fuse. I'm pretty sure this fuse is the IG Coil fuse which powers the instrument cluster among other things. None of the lower indicator lights will work such as "Air Bag", "Brake", "Check Engine". Accessories such as radio work fine, starter engages with key in the start position. Alternator tests good, ignition switch seems fine, fuses and relays under the hood are fine, Wire from fuse to instrument cluster shows almost no resistance. Anyone have any ideas?
Where the dip stick is?
Checked electrical connections and vacuum hoses
This is an Airporter bus, 27 passenger. We have had it run for long periods of time, then for some unknown reason, it will shut down by the security system. This has happened several times and we hqave had 2 mechanics work on it and cannot find out the problem. We had it to a Chevy dealer in Juneau, Alaska and all they did was give us the procedure to reset it if it happens. We operate a tour company in Haines, Alaska and cannot use the bus because we cannot trust it. It is unacceptable to simply go through a procedure to reset it, if it shuts down because we would have passengers in the bus and it is a very uncomfortable feeling for them and embarrasing for our driver. Please help me. We can't even sell the bus with this issue.
I overhauled the engine five months ago when I pulled off the pipe it had RV Sealant on it over th eO ring.
We put it all back together and the coolant intake Pipe had a new O ring but when we started to fill it with coolant it leaked. I pulled the pipe off and gooped it up with high temp gasket sealant and it stopped the leak.
Now it is leaking again. It seemed either the O ring was not the right one or something is missing from the pipe to make it fit tight.
Does anyone know why the pipe does not seal with the required O ring?
Just stared but won't start at all seem like no fuel but my wife did put to much fuel cleaner in it at gas stations. Started running ruff then stopped running. But when it did start to act up it ran good at higher speeds
First noticed when I turned car off. Can't tell were it's coming from.
Loud grinding rattling noise from the alternator or something could it be the bearings
All I did was crank it up rolled backward out of my driveway and still getting use to clutch I let it stall going into first. It died I applied clutch again and while rolling tried to start. Wouldn't start and still won't start
You can move the shifter & engine sounds like it changed gears but it doesn't move. Is something not hooked up? Is new (used) tranny bad? Something else we can try?
I know where the oil dip stick is but what is the red dip stick
Engine cranks.. Has good spark.. timing is on..getting fuel.. did not ck fuel pres..though i feel fuel pump working..cyls has 140 +/- psi wet...what next ?
I own a 2000 Chevy Metro and the automatic transmission that slowly lost power over the period of 4 months. I would like to know any solutions that I should try in regards to transmission fluid, the solenoid, or any other fixes that would help solve the problem before I consider having to repair the transmission itself.
Worn engine mounts
Why is this happening? What's can be done?
Occurs when car is at an idle only. Stops when I press gas pedal just a fraction
My metro makes a noise like a clank clank noise when accelerating at certain miles, doesn't make the sound if going slower or when first starts,only when going fast.Does not have engine lights on. Recently where the wheel is attach on the passenger side that broke down I thought it was a tie rod or something related but it wasn't. I got it fix is weld and reinforce..I wonder if that might be something that got loose when it hit the floor or if it might be the fan..I can feel inside the sound like when the car goes faster..a not sure if when the car goes faster also the fan will acelarate too...I really don't think is the motor but not sure..I had a car before that used to make a similar noise,it overheated and broke down how ever the check engine was on..not on the metro..this is a well taken care car..it has only 84,000 original miles.. The inside is almost new the rugs the seats everything... Please help me at least some hints... Also all he's oils are on point ..like a said no check engine on and all the lights work fine...
And the gas is not even full
Could it be possible that the 02 sensor is not working . or the gasket for throttle body for TPI needs replacement?
How many start up systems does the ECM read when starting car.
And How do I check if all systems are being read during inital start up?
I can only get car to move by building up RPMs gradually to approx 2500 RPMS. I have to maintain these RPMs or the ENGINE WILL DIE.
please help me. I anxiously await your reply. Dee
Uncertain when the high-pitched buzzing sound started, it's my wife's car, but it seems she started to mention the noise some time after we bought new tires. It's difficult to explain the noise; I do have a recording of it but there's no option to upload the audio file on this web site. It appears the noise is coming from the front of the car on the driver's side. It is not grinding, scratching, growling, thumping, humming or any of the usual sounds I have encountered before. I have checked the structs and the brake pads for excessive wear, they're both okay. I have been under the car and have not found anything to be loose or missing. The timing belt and water pump were changed about four years ago. The car is basically for work commuting so only about 6,000 miles per year are put on it. The car does not have power steering and is a three speed automatic. As stated above, the sound comes and goes in both frequency and loudness, it is not predictable. Any ideas?
Overheat leaked all oil starts it tugs but no force from engine when I step on gas when I turn it on its ok Istep on gas Iit tugs a little but wont move
it acts like it's locked all the time.
the headlights still come on but the blinkers have stopped working.