pressure goes to a higher pressure reading how do i repair and what happened just changed oil now this happens any help would be greatly appreciated

Mechanic advised to trade/sell the car because of aluminum and possible cost of repairs. Thoughts?

recieving code PO303

receiving several codes...po128, po303 and po449

cost to replace tensioner only

car is a ls with electric steering

it only happens now and agian but its getting a little worse think its something to do with the fuel injectors but not really sure.

I'm DYI-ing a coolant flush, just need some help per this specific car, I get how to do it, just need help looking for the right things, ie the lower drain.

Had fixed while still under warranty. No longer have warranty. What could be causing this. Also, when the green light goes off, the a/c does not work. Fan does, but not cool air. You might guess, it is worse when weather is hotter. LOL

When I accelerate the car sputters and can't seem to shift to the next gear. The ESC is out is display and service traction control. If I ease off the gas it shifts and accelerate slugishly. I had it plugged in to read the error codes. I was told the O2 sensor or the cat converter need to be replaced.

Everything is working fine when I plug a little device used for music into the power port (the second cigarette lighter). It turns on but I don't have time to fuss with it. A minute later I notice it's turned off. I check my main cigarette lighter and it isn't working either. Then I realize that worst of all there is no air coming from any of my vents! I try turning the knob off and moving it 1 through 5, but no air is coming out at all. Not hot or cold.
When I press the button for A/C, the indicator lights up and I can hear the engine working a little harder the way it normally does when the A/C is turned on but still no air from the vents. The indicator lights for the buttons to switch from outside air to inside air also seems to light up. JUST NO AIR FLOW & CIGARETTE LIGHTERS DON'T WORK.

I figured it was just a fuse so I checked them all (except the larger, gray, square ones - I don't know how to check those) and they were all fine. There haven't been any symptoms that this system was having trouble, it just stopped working exactly as I described. And of course this happens when it's 100 degrees outside every day.

PLEASE HELP! I absolutely can NOT afford to just take it to just blindly take it to a shop It seems weird to me because I thought the cigarette lighters were different systems than the HVAC, but what do I know? I just pray it is an easy fix and not a major part replacement with a lot of labor involved.

Thank you!!!!

do i have to remove the motor mount all the time

It was the water pump on my blazer that first broke down

air conditional not blowing cold. mechanic said that the electrical system is out on air conditioner. how much would this repair cost. and it is worth it for a car with 150,000 miles

the water is bubbling in the reservoir bottle but its not hot the car is not overheating. once the water gets pushed into the reservoir bottle it goues out onto the ground.

I ordered one and it doesn't fit. The mechanic says mine must be after-market, but I bought the car in early '06, there are no after-market parts on my car. They've tried several different sensors and none match the one in my car. They even looked it up by the VIN at the dealership, and no luck. The car has been sitting for 8 months now. I NEED HELP!!!

I was told that the fuel tank pressure sensor was bad on my car. The part costs about $40, but the repair shop said it would be about $350 because he had to drop the gas tank. I am just trying to find out if he is being honest.

I bought a 98 malibu which ran great, new battery, new front strut assemblies and a 2.4 engine with automatic tranny. IN JAN 2012
I knew it needed a brake line and drove it home 16 miles on the e brake without a problem.
long story short I registered the car and decided that all the brake lines and fuel lines were to be replaced. The rear spring was broken so grabbed a pair from a near by bone yard.
Since the 10 day NYS temp sticker was expired (by 5 months) we used a flatbed to get the car to the inspection station this morning. Picked it up and went to a local store about 6 miles, low oil pressure light came on idling in the parking lot, when the gas pedal was pressed it went off. Then got it back home ( 1 mile)and when we went to swap out cars in the driveway lost forward gears ( reverse works fine but all forward gears feel like they slip but move the car)..could it be sensor issues from disconnecting and removing the battery? have to drive it 75 miles for the computer to be ready and pass the emission part of the inspection.
I bought this car for my wife originally, but having second thoughts. any input or thoughts would be appreciated. I have worked on alot of older cars when I owned my shop from 1995 - 2002 kinda stumped with this one.


Went out this morning started it up reverse worked forward worked. When it got up to temp forward would hesitate then engage after a second and go. I'm still thinking sensor

The other day i parked my car and the next morning i tried to start it and it wouldnt start. i replaced my coil.packs my control module plugs and wires and nothing worked. eveything spins and moves it just doesnt turn over. im getting gas to the engine but im not getting a spark to my plugs or packs.

Both of my low beam lights didn't work. I checked my light bulbs and the passenger side low beam bulb was burnt out so I replaced, checked the 2 fuses and they both looked good so I bought a new relay and installed. Still not working. What do I check next?

i had a prblem with my power windows, seats, radio, gages,a/c heater they told me it was my ignition switch so had it changed and its doing the same thing

I only get a rattle noise when I turn left into a drive way or if the right wheel hits a bump or pot hole. any suggestions would be helpful.

Left turns in driveway or bumps on right front side.

What is the repair time for a heater core?

same as above

i'm driving along and all of a sudden the steering wheel starts to shake and i almost lost control of the steering .it just started a couple of days ago. i don't drive it often and short distance

When I push the "a.c." button you don't feel it kick it. The blower works but the air doesn't get cold.

I drive my car no at the most 50 miles a month, and have only driven it 5,000 miles in the past 5 years (the car has 93k miles total). Because I hardly ever drive it, I rarely have any maintenance done until a problem shows itself. I very rarely change the oil but use synthetic when I do. Any time I have had anything done I ask them to look at all systems, but the only real maintenance I have had done is have had the front brakes replaced. I did not complete the 90k mileage service because the list of things they do is all "Check", and it costs $200-300 and it seems they don't much of anything (also every mechanic seems to try and charge me for stuff I don't need). I only get about 14 miles to the gallon, but all my driving is short, city trips with a lot of rapid acceleration.

I would be concerned to take the car on any long trip, but I would like to feel confident that if I want to drive a long car trip that I won't have a serious problem. So, I have two questions:

1) Should I have the 90k service completed?
2) What maintenance's are the most important that I should consider?
3) Is the "penny test" for the tire tread legitimate?

Thanks so much for any help you can give me. I am disabled, which is why I don't drive much and don't have a lot of money for car maintenance.

3 times in the last 6 weeks when turning on the A/C or defroster, I assume some computer problem occurs b/c the temp gage goes to 0(does not), the A/C does not blow cold air and on 1 occassion the engine check light came on (the time my wife turned on the defroster). and also I beleive the radiator fans automatically kick on.
So far when i have disconnected the car battery and re-connected the battery the temp gage and A/C will work. No other problems with the car at this time.

What is causing this? Sensor, the computer? How can it be fixed? i will go out and disconnet the battery a 3rd.

I did not check for the diagnostic code when the problem happened the 2nd time. 1st time and the last time the service engine light did not come on

Had ERG valve replaced and map sensor replaced. light was off when I left shop. Light came on as driving home. Does this mean repairs were not done correctly?