My horn has stopped working three times now. When I double tap the fob I hear something click near the fuse/relay box under the hood. My temp gauge quit working for a week and mysteriously started working again. I have to tape the shifter for the letter to illuminate. And most recently the volume has begun to stick. If I tap it, when it gets stuck it will work. Also, I just replaced the front and back brake pads and when I applied the brakes at speeds over 35 the car shutters and I can hear a slight nocking.

A few months ago, my drivers side window would stop rolling back up every once in a while. It rolls down fine, just doesn't want to go back up. After a few minutes of repeatedly pressing the button, it would go back up. Then one day, it went down and refused to go back up so I took it to a shop and they replaced the motor and regulator. It worked fine for a month or so and now the problem is back. Not only that, now the passenger side window will not roll up from the driver side buttons. I have to use the passenger side buttons to get it back up (Rolls down fine). What's the matter? And if I take it back to the same shop will they charge me again??

Any others experienced this?

Cleaned rust on plug; some rust on connector plate--sprayed cleaner. Originally only 1 light out. It keeps changing but right now my parking light and turn signal is working where my turn signal is supposed to work; neither parking light slot is working or backup light. Replaced connector plate with after market Dorman plate--plug would not fit and put old plate back in so I would at least have some light on that side. Noticed turn signal light on dashboard is faintly green and blinking slow only when car is running. What is your suggestion or should I just take it to a repair shop? It blew one fuse and a relay and I replaced both. Recently my door locks also started acting up as well.

Engine light came on 24 hrs ago and is still on. checked gas cap, it is secure. Had engine checked at Advance Auto

It will start and stall after few mins idling. Sounds like a tapping the higher it idles the faster it taps and I saw puff white smoke come from the valve cover as it stalled. Was thinking bad valve cover gasket and oil on spark plugs. Has been very reliable car until just recently. Now stalls sometimes when it's put into gear. Not sure what to start with!

Fuses are all good. All other vents work, just not the console.

is it possible I might have a blockage in my heater core,cause there's no heat blowing from the fan.

My car hesitates when pressing gas, car starts n shuts down at stop signs, also wheel n brake becomes stiff as in hard to turn n brake depress hard as well

I've had the thermostat changed and I think someone did something to the radiator or water pump a while ago, but so far, no fix has worked, or at least not for long. It only overheats in hot weather in stop and go driving or low speeds. If I put the A/C on, this fixes it. If I'm on the interstate going fast, the temp is generally stable, at least for shorter drives. I'm tired of paying people for fixes that don't fix the problem.

just this time new battery

my check engine light my ABS warninglight came on along with my reduced power engine message came on at the same time. . so I take it to a mechanic shop and end up replacing the throttle body the fuse box andthe brake pedal .. sensor.. after almost $900 I finally get my car back after 2 weeks later and my air conditioner is not working at all and was working perfectly fine before I got there what could it be?!

All the buttons on my remote stopped working except for the panic button. I know it's not the battery and there are no broken components in the remote. I'm thinking it's a fuse but I could use some help.

Yesterday I got in it and it started up like it always does, went to work. Got in it at 5:00 and tried to turn the key and it sounded like it wanted to turn over, but wouldn't. Called AAA had it towed to my mechanic who was closed by that time. This morning I stopped by my mechanic and told him what happened. He just now called me & said it's the tumbler-anti-theft ignition switch. The entire assembly must be replaced. I can still use my keys however. $272 for parts & $200 labor. Approx. 3 hour job @ $65/hr. labor. I never had any type of warning at all, no lights came on...nothing. Not happy at all ~

I think the sensor/bulb just fall inside, so I want to know how to put it again on its place

I had the face plate replaced. Now the air only comes on when I have the fan switch on #4, but even then after a while it turns off and I have to turn it back on.

I need to replace the ignition coil for Cylinder one and cannot find a Cylinder map.

The antitheft light doesn't stay on or blink
But I'm not getting fuel to fuel rail tank is half full so iknow there's gas should I replace fuel pump or what? I'm a do it myself type person so ill do the labor is there anything else it could be?

ok i sunk my 07 malibu 2years ago in water i put in a new motor new ecm bcm new fusebox under the hood passangerside fusebox car will not turn over with key but if i take the boostcables and clip it on the positive side of the batt and the otherend to the starter the car will start right up and if i turn the key to the acc position on the ingnation it will start if i turn key completly off it won't start but can hear a clicking noise comming from passangers side fusebox everytime i turn the key and my rpm's gauge speed gauge needles not moveing and odometer reads error just woundering whats going on with it i know its something electrical but cant find the sourse of my problems i need help

A/C worked fine until my battery died and I had to jump start.

We have one working remote and would like to revive the other one. It has a good battery, but doesn't work.

Replaced rear calipers pads and rotors the same on front when removed line no fluid came out ''thought was weird'' replaced, bled out fine.Also replaced master cylinder still locks up. started driver side rear now driver side frontlocks up

This just started yesterday after I filled up my car and went to the store and when I came out and cranked the car up then the gauge went down to empty, what could cause this problem ?

About three months after I got my car the fuel hand would work half way and then stopped working it says low fuel all the time. The check engine light came on and stays on. I have taken it to have the scan run and it says something about a vapor sensor and something else. Don't remember what it was. Then I was told the gas cap thing went through 3 gas caps now and nothing worked as far as that. Then was told to check the fuses and I am not sure what fuses and which sets to check. I have checked the ones in the trunk and the ones on passenger side of car. Is there a fuel fuse under the hood? how much would I have to send taking to a dealer ship to get this done?

How much should it cost if a repair shop does the work?

Recently rear ended, told trunk, bumper, and muffler plus addtional things needed to be replaced.

I think that is what is wrong. When shifting from low into second, second into high, it makes a jerking, clunking sound and feels like the bottom is going to fall out of the car.

air conditioning, fuel gauge, radio cruise control, temp gauge wont work what do i do

The engine light in my mom's car came on again after tightening the fuel cap and having a mechanic check it. She is in her 70s and cannot afford a big repair. It has been very humid around here and she hasn't driven the car more than a few miles a day for about a month. Any ideas? I really hate when she gets ripped off for car repairs. Thank you.

My steering has Always been Horrible since I got the car. I kept going back to where I bought it & they said nothing was wrong. If I'm at higher speeds & I brake my car Vibrates & Shimmies like crazy! It's NOT my Rotors & it's NOT my Brakes!