104
questions

i just bought my lumina apv and the sliding door has to be tied shut cuz the rear striker and mounting hole is busted off and the front doesnt even look like it has a locking mechanism does anyone know where i can buy an aftermarket striker and backing plate to weld onto the rear so the door works thank you for your help

Interior lights will not come on when you open the door, how is this repaired without taking it in for repairs at the shop?

Replaced IAC. Car now pulsates when idling between 900 and 1700 RPM's. Car has now been running like this for 25 minutes.

Changed fan switch but still won't work,radiator is over heating

Looking for a very ballpark estimate on replacing a transmission on this thing. Only has 1st gear. Just trying to figure out whether I should even bother towing it somewhere for an estimate.

Have a Low coolant light coming on when I first start the car and the coolant level is OK, It turns off after 1/2 hour or so of driving, mechanic tells me it maybe the sensor but does not guaranteed it,tells me cost of changing sensor with part is $150.00, is this about right?
Thank you
Gonchi2

How do you correctly install a IAC valve

when I turn the ignition on the lights do not come on. What kind of ignition switch do I need. can I get the wiring diagram for it?

How does one remove the rear bumper cover from the above car?

Car starts but you have to pump the pedal to keep it running, hot or cold.

it has [ TBI ] and happens every time. 3.1 V6

I changed the engine & transmission out, replacing the engine & transmission seals & the PCM. Now it idles high in park and neutral. It also shifts rough in and out of those gears.

When driving, the ABS light came on after two stops and stayed on until I shut the car off. Pumping the brakes with the engine running in the garage does not turn on the light.

WAS RUNING FINE GOT UP ONE DAY STARTED IT AN MOTOR WAS SHACKING SO BAD THOUGHT IT WAS GOING TO FALL OUT AND HAD NO POWER CODES READ 26 22 43 56 SO REPLACED COMPUTER,TPI,MODUALE,PLUGS,WIRE,COILS,THEN IT RAN OK FOR 20 MILES STARTED DOING SAME THING EXCEPT NOW AC WONT WORK EITHER BLOWS BUT JUST HOT AIR THIS IS A ONE OWNER VAN WITH ON 90 THOUSAND MILES ON IT TAKE VERY GOOD CARE OF ANY AND ALL HELP WILL BE GREATLY APPRICATED

roy here informed me there is not a back up release for gas lid in case one by drivers seat fail---so then how would one get it open if needed to in case of primary handle failure

is there a back up gas lid release in case the one by drivers seat fails

this is the first occasion of this problem.When i turn the key there is nothing: like the battery is dead, yet battery charger rates it charged and ready?

Can not get door unlocked.It seems tobe loose and key won't open it

this is the first time I as the new owner of the van am putting oil in the van. It won't come off no matter which way I turn it PLEASE HELP!

My van keeps blowing relay switches..I can't keep it running...I have put new fuel pump in but it still blows the relay switch..What can I do?

when you take the gear shifter from park to drive, reverse or even nutral it acts like it is still in park. but when you rock the van back and forth it goes into gear and will work for a little while but not long what could be wrong other wise the trans works and shifts fine.

I recently replaced the radio/head unit that was installed by the previous owner. It wasn't the factory head unit, just a sony casette player. The aftermarket radio adapter harness was already installed so it was a seem less install. The radio unit powers on and is able to pick up reception, however it can get extremely distorted with bombarding static noise at times. When this occurs I'm not usually under power lines, trees, or any other cause of static interference. I believe that it is the antenna itself, I just need to know where the actual Antenna itself is located within the van. I have checked for an exterior antenna, but had no luck. So please answer my question of the Antenna's location.

I had a leak at the lower radiator area that caused low coolant light to come on.I replaced the radiator two years ago thats not the problem.So I supposedly had a Manifold gasket set , valve cover gasket, some hoses and t-stat replaced. As soon as I put it on the interstate going to work the low coolant light comes on. I had it purghed and it was fine for 4 days until it started again. I put a new radiator cap on it and the problem still continues. The garage says I need a head gasket now but it runs fine , doesn't smoke out the rear and the oil is not milkey. I had another mechanic look at it and he says he wouldn't replace the head gasket either. We found that it's pumping out of the radiator but not back in.The hoses are clean too. The fans working but the reservoir is full of coolant and the tempature gage never runs hot but stays at medium. Thanks, I went and had it pressure checked and found it was working fine but it appeared to me that it wasn't. The radiator shop found that it was a bad censor in my radiator, and nothing more.

Evening,
I was driving my 95 Lumina APV yesterday & had thought I had the check engine light problem solved with replacing the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator. I pulled the ECM fuse put it back in drove her a good 20 miles at all speeds. Before it would come on with in 2-5min. of driving her.
So I turned the heater on & the fan kicked on (i have noticed this in past so not sure if this is normal) anyway as soon as I put the heater on the CEL went on & stayed on. I turned the heater off the fan kicked off but the CEL stayed on. There was no hesitation or anything running wise. I just don't understand why the fan would kick on when I turn the heater on & more so why the CEL came on then?.
As I said a good 20 miles at all diffrent speeds & no CEL until I put the heater on!.
Thank you!
Will,

i have a 1996 chevrolet lumina van, recently it was overheating come to find out the heat gasket was blown. after i got that repaired now the van can barely move, you have to push on the accelerator hard for it to move and its still dragging and will not switch gears. do i have a bad transmission or do the transmission need to be reset. there is plenty of transmission fluid in the van. thanks

So I looked under the hood & it says OBD1 certified. So were is the B pin so I can run a jumper wire to get the codes out?
Looking at the plug the A pin top right the B pin should be right next to it on top nothing. Under the A pin there is a pin but I don't want to jump that as I don't know what it will do.
There is a total of three pins? If it is an OBD1 I should be able to get the codes but what pins do I jump?
Thank you!

Hello,
I'm going to buy a code reader but when I looked for one all the ones said 1996 & latter for OBD2. My van being a 1995 I thought great OBD1 I can jump the A & B terminals to get the codes.
Having said this I went out to do this & yes my plug had 8 pins like the OBD1's closer look I saw the A pin but no B pin it was empty. Although she does not have 16pin plug & looks like an OBD1 plug it must have the OBD2.
My question is she is a 95 the plug looks like the OBD1 but no b terminal this must be an OBD2?
I just want to know so I can buy the right code reader.
Thank you!
Will,

i need the drivers seat fixed it won't say solid

Afternoon again,
As I stated earier today my check engine light comes on about 15 min. into driving her & stays on this has been going on for some time now.
What I noticed just now is the cooling fan stays on & does not shut off I checked the temp. with an infrared gun & it's runing the normal temp.
Where is the switch that causes the fan to kick on?.
Thank you!

Good Morning,
My check engine light has been coming on for about 6 months now but she has been running great. It comes on after about 5-10 min. of driving her no matter what the weather is.
Having said this she has the 3.8L in her about two week ago I noticed a what feels like a miss at about 40 mph she has a miss but when I step on it she has great power no hesitation.
Today when I was stoped at a light I noticed what seemed to be a miss. As I said this light has been coming on for a good 6 months or longer with no problem.
Anyway what I would like to know is what sensors set off the check engine light?.
I know I should bring her to a garage but being out of work I was wondering if someone could just tell me what I might check?.
I collect old cars (Chevy's) no computers so I would know where to lok

My friend's minivan has a problem whereby it will stall when you come to a stop only after it warms up. Runs fine when cold. You can restart the minivan, but have to pop it into gear at a higher rev (auto trans), otherwise it'll just stall again. If you allow it to cool down for an hour, it'll drive fine until it warms up again.