window on driver side jumps off track

codes as follows: 22 1/4 TP volt low reading is .77-.80
24 2/4 VSS no signal
33 MAP sensor high reading is 29 KPA volts.97-.99
45 O2 high volts reading is .07-.99

we have also installed a new MAP and TPI sensor and run Sea Foam thru both fuel tank and and injectors on top of motor.

we are trying to track down cause of a lean O2 sensor,a bad maf is listed as one of the possible causes. does this even have one? I see them listed in the Chiltons as on only a 3.8 motor.

fans will not come on

The #1fan won't come on. #2 fan comes on at 230 temp. Air conditioner clutch doesn't kick in either at idle

replaced fuses in glove box. replaced relays and breakers in electrical box under pass. side dash. is there any others i'm not aware of? Any diagrams of what relays/breakers are needed in fuse box under dash?

when i start the van i have to rev the engine to keep it going or else it will stall. i have to keep my foot on the brake while keeping the RPMS up so that the engine will not stall. on the freeway there is no problem as the van RPMS are up and the alternator is suplying juice; however when i slow down or take my foot off the acclerator it will want to stall and i see my voltage meter drop. i am at my whits end with this van. i replaced the battery and alternator yesterday,i have resealed upper and lower manifold gaskets, new spark plugs in the past 3 months, new fuel filter in the past year, new MAF sensor, new idle air control valve. i have no idea what would be causing this. please help me resolve this it is my only vehicle.

Hello, I have a 1990 Lumina APV van that periodically after running a little while, the Temp starts going halfway up and if I accelerate more heavily it will get really hot! The big problem while driving will happen when I come to a stop. The engine just goes dead sort of like if you can imagine driving a manual transmission car coming to a complete stop and not engaging the clutch....This is how my van feels when it starts heating up and I come to a stop...Then I will have to put it out of gear and crank it, But then when I put it back in gear it will go dead again... If anyone can help me figure out a fix for this I would be so thankful! Thanks!

I want to change it. The coolant fan runs sporatically at best. I want to connect it somewhere so that the ignition turns it on and off and with a separate relay. Where can I connect it?

We had the gas pump, gas filter, and battery replaced but won't start.

window motor was replaced by friend and came loss and swinging in door. I need to fix it myself

Leak terminates at bottom of oil filter adapter. But all mounting surfaces are flat and new gaskets. Possible leak originates in intake manifold or valve cover?

They will not move from the inside or outside. I have no idea what the problem is.

Trying to replace brake light bulbs. Looks like a clip inside and don't want to break it.

While driving, my high beams were on, the lights went out,(Side lamps, blinkers hazards all sill worked) I franticly jerked the high/low switch on the steering wheel they came back on went out again and now they dont come on. The switch turn the inside lights and side lamps on they are all fine. DOnt know if it needs a relay and where that would be, or if the problem is in the high/low switch on the sterring column and how to replace that thanks

I've replaced both temp sensors and relays to fan. Replaced switch on the steering column and checked all wired connections i can see.. Any ideas?

Some one suppested hatch switch might be on or something like that but dont know where it is located.

they all started auctioning up at once. I replaced the alternator. then the battery. but that did not fix the problem. the alternator is showing discharge and the warning buzzer is going off when you turn on the lights.

I can trying to figure out the problem with my electrical system. Battery is new. Alternator is charging when running at 14+. When I let the car sit over night, the battery is dead in the morning. I disconnected the alternator and did this overnight and the battery is still dead so I know it's not a guy owed on the alternator.

However when I try to check the parasitic draw, it shows no amps. Is there something wrong with my meter? I know I have a good connection.

I haven't had a chance to jack it up and take a closer look at it yet, but my front end makes a lot of noise. It pops when I put the car from park to either drive or reverse, it creaks and groans when I turn the wheels with no gas to them (not a power steering pump/fluid issue), and squeaks when driving down the road.

My mechanic said in July he was getting a code related to the throttle position. When accelerating or in stop/go traffic it is starting to act rough. Any ideas where to start? The TPS sensor was changed over a year ago.

i have changed the engine control computer the electronic spark control module the ignition coil all to no avail i have an inline spark checker that i have hooked up from the coin to the distributor cap and get no spark at this point im completely at a loss before i made the decission to change the computer i had gotten a trouble key and checked the codes wasnt anything that would tell me where to look

I've opened the panels and see that one of the many bars has come off! The problem is I can't see where it should be attached? It's the one that runs directly from the outside handle! Is there a place online where I could find the scamatics?