Chevrolet Impala SS QuestionsRefine by vehicle
PUMP IS NEW AND JUST PUT NEW WIRES IN THE TANK. PUMP WILL ONLY PRIME ONCE IN AWHILE. NOW I AM GETTING A RUNNING RICH CODE
The key turns and the features come on but there's no turn over. She was having problems with the remote and after I changed her battery due to the cold and it being almost dead. When I hooked it back up the alarm was going off and the remote wouldn't disarm it so I turned the key and it came on but after shutting it off, it hasn't came back on since.
Start then stalling happens at ever attempt and the 2 to 3 sec. run time seem to be equal on every attemp
The problem normally happens if I have to make multiple stops which causes me to start and stop the car frequently. I know the problem is about to happen because when I apply the gas the car hesitates for about 2-3 seconds then vibrates; shuts off with the keys still in the start position and then finally the check gauge & oil pressure lights will come on. I know it has to do with something electrical or overheating because if I leave the car sitting for over an hour after this occurs, it starts right up and drives like nothing happens. when i take it to the shop they never find anything even though i explain when and how this happens. What could be the issue?
I have a new engine spark plugs also bought a new opti crank sensor and also have a brand new fuel pump I'm not understanding why when I accelerate on the gas it stall and it will cut off and it takes a while before it cranks back up the car was sitting for a little while but I don't understand what could possibly be the reason
I bought the car used. Ever since I bought it my traction control light stays on, my ABS light stays on, and the information center of the gage cluster says "service suspension system" the blinker also blinks really fast although all bulbs work. Also my power steering just suddenly stopped working wit no warning. And last thing is that the check engine light stays on and the code reader said misfire on cylinder 7.
My heater is shutting off intermittently as are my directionals (both). The heater seems to shut off when i go over a bump. The directionals seem more random.
Generally my directionals work when I first start the car but then fail at different points during the day. Both directionals fail and I have tried replacing the fuse.
the car hesitates to start and Once it starts 30 minutes later the car will cut off also I notice that the tachometer needle is not working properly the needle will pop up slightly and go back down while the car is still running and when I rev up the engine no response from tact needle.
spark plug? I was told I would need to use a 10mm socket in order to get to the spark plug. Any guidance would be appreciate.
About 6 months ago it started making a noise when I turned on the heat or air. It did not do it every time but it is now and it is getting worse. It is now staying on the whole time I am driving and even after the engine is turned off. It is a clicking noise
Car has 123,000 miles, Occasionally I feel a very slight shudder or release at a stop sign. Today was more pronounced and disticnt. I've been reading about tranny solenoids and or transmission replacement. Where do I go from here? Fluid looks dirty, not low but could use replacement.
When I am on a slight incline or even a hill and start to accelerate the car will pop real hard, almost like its going into gear but the transmission mech cant find anything wrong with it. It will also feel like its caught slightly when I am making a sharp turn from a stand still. also the radio will pop off everytime I hit a bump. I can even pop the steering wheel and make it go off. Any suggestions?
the car will crank but wont start
I'm currently getting low oil pressure and "check gauge" light when idling. What do i need to check oil pressure. I'm assuming if oil pressure is fine then i need to replace the sending unit. Has anyone had this problem?
This also happened last week and it seems to be fine on the drive home. i checked and the coolant is not low. It also appeared as if the temp gauge was not working. when i got to work the engine was not hat at all. the car has 103,000 miles on it and has never given any problems. hope it is an easy fix.
my oil somehow ended up in my coolant. i didnt have symptoms, no overheat or drivability issues. i had just decied to check my coolant and saw chocolate ice cream layer in the reservoir. so i drained the coolant and there is thick sticky oil coating everything...the reservoir, the hoses to and from the radiator, the water pump hoses, etc. it is a layer of gunk and so how do i get it out or flush it out of the system?
no overheat, no drivability issues either. I just happened to check the coolant and the reservoir was full of chocolate sludge. My engine oil leaked in to my coolant somehow. I have drained the coolant and the coolant looked new other than about an inch thick of oil sludge floating on the top of it. How do I clean the coolant reservoir and the entire cooling system of all the sludge that is stuck to the walls of everything, ie. hoses, recovery tank, radiator. Am I going to have to replace it all or is there a way to clean it? how can I verify if the oil cooler is the problem and not a head gasket
I am install an engine and need to know what is the easiest way from the top are bottom.
If the car has been sitting overnight and I start it the trans will not engage till I run it till running temperature is reached and I turn it off and come back in 15 minutes and then it is fully functional.