Chevrolet G Series Van (G20) QuestionsRefine by vehicle
5 o v8 it acts like it starving for fuel at take off then it runs great after it picks up speed? New air and fuel filter, has 60 thousand miles.
It has power to switch when off its 12v on shows 4v and to starter, but doesn't engage when cross jumping the sealenoid
This Chevy van has the side-by-side 4 headlight system. I could swear that I'd seen all four lights on when the hi-beams were on before, but noticed recently that switching on the hi-beams turned off the low beams. A mechanic told me that some 4 headlight vehicles are designed to do that, but as I say, I could swear all four lights used to come on. Maybe I'm simply wrong. Can anyone confirm one way or the other?
It acts like it just loses all power.
and how to perform best resolution.
wont shift out of first.will manually go in second. and speedometer doesnt work. checked sensor and changed for the spedo pretty much checked everything ,so I thought
I read there may be wires connected to things on the Dashboard and elsewhere on the front seats, as far as I can see there is not much the passenger seat does as compared to the driver's seat and it does not have the electrical buttons the driver's seat has.
Do you think it is safe to remove the front passenger seat? Thanks!
I have tightened the battery cables once and it came back on.
Linkage doesn't engage reverse. Drove 600 miles w/ no problems,slipping or noise. Reverse just went out. Need to know how to diagnose or what trans fit this van or how to fix it. Please.. thank you
It will not start back up until it sets for a while
I replaced the ignition modulator, rotor and cap
Been having some issues with rear end noise when shifting from P to D and while driving from 1st to 2nd gear. The u joints are good but there is play in the driveline. Has 150,some odd miles. Should I replace the whole rear or just the gears and bushings?
Am having a problem with the brakes on my van. Had new brakes installed about a year ago so they are in good shape. I don't use the the van that much so there is not much mileage on them. Just recently my pedal slowly started to go down to the floor and the brakes were not working properly. I took it to a friend of mine who is familiar with doing repairs on trucks. The first thing he suggested was to replace the fluid. At the time he said that the valves to drain the system were kind of rusty so we slowly started to drain the fluid from the filler cups. He did this several times while sucking out the fluid and putting new fluid in it. The old fluid was black. I left van at his house so he can work on it in his spare time. He has a garage with a lift in it. When we took the van for test drives as we periodically changed the liquid to see if the brakes would work. One thing I forgot to mention was when we step on the pedal it would go down to the floor and then all of a sudden the brakes would suddenly catch all at once and stop the van. My friend bought a master cylinder figuring that that was the cause. There was not much of a change at all. So the problem is somewhere else.Since then my friend sprayed the drain valves and was able to loosen them up.
We plan to drain the whole system and put in new break fluid.
This van break system has two parts.One for the front and one for the back.one filler cup is small and the other filler cup is larger.
Chiltons Manual says 5 3/4 gallons seems high, maybe I am reading it wrong? 350 ci 5.7 a/c 700~trauto trans tbi
i already replaced the map sensor and that seemed to fix it for one drive (7-8 miles) sat rest of the day then on the drive home it did it again after about 1 mile what is going on with it all vacuum lines look fine and secured distributer is tight and on TDC this was so random i drive it every day no problem till out of no where
When I turn in the switch the pump runs for about 10 seconds. I was told that the pump should run for 2 seconds.
If the 2 seconds is correct, should I worry about running 10 seconds.
What will cause this.
I was on my way to work, my van didn't want to shift out of 1st. When it finally did, the speedometer quit working. A co-worker said, "check the v.s.s.
this does not happen every time I try to start vehicle
The air was blowing cold one day and not the next so I put a can of refrigerant in it and it still won't blow cold.
coolant line is needing replacement. fluid levels low. reverse but not drive or very little. will a fluid drain and change along with filter screen cleaning correct the problem?
will a filter/screen and pan gasket help this ? the fluid level check shows dirty ATF and some rust flakes.
mostly when fist get in it but will stall when stop quick any time no codes being stored.