There is a tick/click noise like a mechanism isn't engaging; coolant is overflowing into the cab thru the floor. It overheats after 10-15 min at idle. I believe it may be a heater line blockage or a radiator blockage, just not sure where to start looking. The radiator hose coming off radiator is pressurized after motor has been turned off also. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. T

The trans also winds out changing from 1st to 2nd and doesn't cut off on me all the time. Has low power going uphill also. Thank you!

Everything works except speedometer

The high side has access and the dryer filter I'll need to get an conversation kit the compressor cuts in and out I need to charge system just purchased this van few weeks ago thanks!

anything else we can replace?? Or its the dreaded head gasket??

By me turn the key so much the claps on the wire harness broke off. Itry put it back in but still the key just turns

I was told that because of the year of my vehicle, it's not a good idea to change my transmission filter or fluid. Is that true? Would my ses light turn on if either my fluid or oil were low?

And how can I tell if it's bad? Where's my odometer sensor? That stopped reading thousands of miles ago.

Does the length of the wires affect the way my van starts? The new set is way longer than the old ones, but does that make a difference? How can I test the wires and the cylinders?

My van likes to shut down on the highway and at green lights. I've changed the starter, alternator, battery, IAC, tps, sp/ws/dcar/ff/af, and had to mess with the timing because the distributor was loose. I can't read the codes because my data link connector won't give them. After changing the rotor, it started up, no problem. Next day, back to square one. Changed the fuel pump. Started up just fine. Turn it off to try again, back to square one. What is the problem here? I've tested the ignition control module off the van, and it always passes. I need help.

Right tire rubs fender when I turn right sometimes. Have new coil spring, shock, air bellow, and ball joints on right side. Left side has new shock only, and bellow is flat- but it never happens on that side. What could be out of adjustment?

Fan is fine, made sure all ducts are clear, flaps open and close properly, replaced control panel, heater core is not clogged. Still, air barely floats out of vents even when fan is at full blast.

1995 G-30 HD High Cube Van. No illumination of Check Engine Light. Have replaced all emission parts including fuel pump, rebuilt throttle body, removed catalytic but still shuts down when accelerator peddle is depressed, will idle for hours and occasionally will not idle for 5 to 10 minutes. Problem is intermittent but more often then not, continues to shut down when accelerator peddle is depressed. At my wits end. HELP.

i need to replace my water pump and i have decided to buy the pump for it online but the mechanic did not specify if it was standard or reverse type rotation in the pump. i want to get the right one. thank you

Problem is constant now but it was intermittent and would switch after a few minutes.

Does the computer on the 1996 6.5L diesel engine in the G30 vans have a port for connecting a scanning tool?

Under the chassis between the transmission and fuel tank there is a large box with what looks like fuel lines coming and going through it. There is also a small round what looks like a
an electric motor, could be wrong about what it is.

horn wont work. fuse is good and horn works when jumped to the battery. do not hear an audible clicking sound that happens when relay is activated

has a 7.4L , has new map and egr, shows 34 code but runs bad when plugged in