Chevrolet Camaro Questions

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putting new seat covers on and would like material behind the lever that allows the front seat to go down for access to back seats.

seems to go away and come back, only seems to affect car when first starting car and does not happen when car is running, and only happens when car is in park after sitting. the button on the auto shifter acts as if it cant go down until i play with it or push very hard. have tried to lube area best i can but doesnt help much. an ideas?? 97 camaro rs well taken care of...

after I clear the caods P0128 it works fine for a day or 3 then it stops working again until I clear the coads again.

have been losing small bits of coolant for some time, seeing recently oil was very milky and has foam buildup in the crankcase. one mechanic said it has to be a headgasket but the other place i asked said the v6 models never blow headgaskets and manifold is common because its plastic?? anyone had similar issues??

if I jump across starter selinoid it cranks, jump starter enabler relay it cranks, but no fuel to injectors.

the ignition key is the right one with the chip on it but the security lamp on the dash stays on when the engine is running

Reason: a bolt broke (couldn't find the answer to this question in the self help)

to watch out for?

my 1994 camaro will turn over and act like its gona start but it will not keep fuel pressure and we have just replaced the feul pump with a brand new one and cleaned all the lines and we have no leaks so please help me because i dont understand whats going on

Motor is installed in a 58 impala, check engine light can be seen glowing in total dark. During the day you can not tell its on. No codes are set when checked with a reader.

turned over did not start turned key again nothing secruity light is on

getting a overhaul have kuhmos now ,,any suggestions on something better ? hows the firestone firehawk indy 500 ?? would apprieacte some feed back !! thanks guys !! 1998 z28 ls1 camaro .. please let me know soon if poss. thanks !~!! rob

i changed it about every three months its a factory motor and horse power

I've been having problems with stuttering and loud popping when I change gears as if there is something wrong with the exhaust or O2 sensors. I put off having this fixed. Now my stick is sticking and won't go into gear no matter how much I push on the clutch. This happens on and off. I haven't heard the gears grinding much until now I have to almost punch it into gear. 1st and reverse are the hardest. I'm afraid to drive it because I got stuck and had to start the car while already in gear to move the car. Is this a fluid problem?

I can feel the hole the water is leaking out of but cant see it

my car stalls at traffic lites & speed bumps. i have to press the accelerator while in park just to keep it running at traffic light. also huge amount of smoke comes out from under the hood. not a good xmas for me. last week on my 40th birthday-to look cool, i revved the engine real high to burn or smoke out the tires. this may have had something to do with this prob. please help, im thinking of junkin this car and am heartbroken. i replaced the spark plugs, air filter and fuel filter and sparkplug wires. i also cleaned fuel injector with that stuff u add to gas tank. still a problem at idling stages--car shuts down. i have to turn ignition several times and pump accelerator to start car. can u make my xmas decent by telling me how much it'd cost to fix? maybe there's still a chance? any help would be appreciated. thanx

It has a oil leak at the rear of the motor.The valve cover gaskets are good,Im pretty sure the intake manifold is leaking at the block,but it is hard to see.I removed the intake and resealed it,the block to intake doesnt have a seal according to the dealer they said to just put a 3/16 bead of a silicone at this area wich i did, but the leak is still there/Also the intake manifold rests to low.The intake has half of the valve cover surface area attached to it,the head has the other half of the surface area.The intake half of the valve cover seal area rests 1/8 of an inch lower than the head valve cover seal area,the valve cover gaskets sealed despite of this but i thought this may be causing a problem with block to intake seal.Is there anyone who knows about this problem. Having alot of trouble.

I have a oil leak where the lower intake meets the block at rear of motor. I got a seal kit from the dealer but it doesnt include a gasket between the block and motor. The dealer said to put a 3/16 bead of silicone at that area but it didnt stop the leak,is there anywhere i can get this seal or any ideas on what i can do to stop the leak?

I read on this site that this year of camaro with 3.4 liter motor has trouble with extension housing seal leaks. does anyone no what extension housing seals are? the motor has a oil leak at the rear in the center at top i cant find.I could see some kind of cover over a hole at rear that might be a option if the motor had a distributor but i cant see the whole thing.

replaced pump but it still seems wrong i have 45 pounds of pressure at the fuel rail please explain the regulator and how to test it

the light has been on for about 2 weeks now.

had oil changed less than 2 weeks ago, radiator keeps leaking water out and now oil smells like gasoline what is going on??

Recently i gave my car to the valet in N.Y. and when i picked it up the security light on the dash was on , now it stays on no matter what i do .Cant seem to shut it off . whats up? what did he do?? and how to i shut it off...btw car starts and runs fine

front components and cover must be removed. drop exhaust, starter, raise the engine three inches and drop the pan. need gaskets, seal, pump kit, pickup tube and screen, oil, filter and antifreeze. estimate seems way off. depending on mileage, add timing gears and chain, tensioners, water pump, belt, spark plugs, and a new starter. how do you arrive at the estimate?

what looks like a low fluid level light in upper left of dash always seems to come on when the car is warmed up ..but my fluid levels all seem to be fine ..whats up with that??? thanks

i have about 150,000 miles and the car seems to be losing its power .Im hoping with a complete tune up my baby will be on fire again!! thank you ! rob

we tried a yellow wire but it kept blowing a fuse

abs light has been on for approximately 3 months.

Since 2008 of May I have had a persistent check engine light come ON then OFF only after the problem was thought to have been fixed by the Chevy dealer. Light would stay OFF for weeks or months with no engine light when car codes have been diagnosed and components replaced, only for the light to reappear again. This has stumped this Chevrolet dealership service dept. in Acton, MA. for the last 1 1/2 years with my 1998 Camaro Z28 5.7L with 150,000 miles but running good 20/21 mpg 50/50 city/highway on average. In the last 1 1/2 years I have replaced the left side cats twice, aftermarket cats by Custom Exhausts in Reading, and went thru 6 O2 new GM sensors, 2 new GM air pumps, and still my engine light remains on (not blinking), this after 3 complete diagnostic scans by dealer with valid codes worked on by dealer too. Unrelated back in 1998-1999 under the mfr. warranty, I’ve had 2 fuel pumps in tank replaced along with a bad Map Sensor, and did not have an engine light come on until recently in 2008. I recently tried going back to 93 Octane after 10 years of using 87 Octane with no luck in turning off this persistent engine light that currently remains on. After 2 tanks of 93 and no success with it turning light off, I went back to 87. I get no Knocking with any octane. Dealer says to just keep chasing down the codes until it’s finally fixed but this car is nickel and diming me to bankruptcy. Massachusetts has very strict annual car inspections. It’s a shame a simple engine light can do in a great car that goes thru regular routine maintainence. In self-diagnostic road tests recently I notice all the time now that when I accelerate hard the transmission stumbles as if the air pump has gone faulty again. The automatic transmission runs great and normal around town but seems it can’t get into high gear and stumbles and hesitates and is not smooth on hard acceleration only from 0 - 100, but the transmission will behave normally smooth when accelerating easily 0 - 100 mph. All fluids are up to level. Tranny fluids were replenished at 60,000. All 150,000 miles have seen only easy driving. With normal driving both city and highway the car runs great all around but with an engine light on. The general engine scans codes point back to the cat. If this is so, why did I run with no light for 7 months on this replaced cat. How can a cat be so out of spec that it plays havoc on the O2 sensors? New O2 sensors are also giving codes of low voltage too. If I replace the Cat with a G.M. replacement it will be a costly mistake if the engine light remains on and I've learned that GM does not make cats for this car anymore, so is there a way to bypass the cat or o2 sensors on diagnostic scans? some say I may have destroyed the knock sensors by using 87 octane since 1998. I do not hear any knocking noise. Can a pin hole leak in the Y pipe be welded closed too?