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which mark is the correct mark for timing gear alignment? the intake gear has a mark on the front and rear sides in different places and the exhaust gear has 2 marks on the front side 180 degrees apart.

I had a valve job done , now the motor is smoking and loosing oil motor has more than 200,000 miles on it

5 years ago I had the muffler and exhaust pipe replaced at Monro. The muffler had a lifetime warranty on parts and labor (warranty code 10).I currently need both replaced again. I got an estimate at Monro 6/29/11.The first estimate was 379.00 which included the muffler and a 39.00 dollar shop supply fee.(I guess for clamps).When I told the service manager that I had a lifetime warranty on the muffler, he crumbled up the first estimate and redid a new one which was 277.00.The new estimate was:

Descrirp. WARR LIST NET LABOR AMT
MUFFLER 20 212.99 FREE 46.00 46.00
EHHAUST PIPE 40 266.99 266.99 0.00 266.99
DISCOU(ON EXH.PIP)0.00 66.75 0.00 -66.75
EXHAUST SUPPORT 40 19.99 19.99 24.99 44.98
EX DISCOUNT -22.02 -7.10 -29.12
TOTAL EXHAUST 262.10
SALES TAX 15.73
The difference was 102.00. On the "first" estimate I only took note of the total, muffler,and shop supply fee.I didn't notice the discounts or the price of the exhaust,labor, etc.But it seems like even if the muffler was discounted in the "first" estimate the second estimate should be about 70.00 to 90.00 lesser.Also theres no shop supply fee in the second estimate. When I inquired he said this is the correct estimate and you still have to pay labor on the muffler.My first thought was he just upped the price on the exhaust pipe when I disclosed I had a lifetime warranty on the muffler which he could not find.I was just going to let the "free" muffler go and go someplace else even if the price is the same or a little more because of the difference in the 2 estimates.Thanks for any help.


been having to fill resivior every week, week and a half with only water , low coolant level finaly started coming on and water underneath the back of the engine , left side , poured water in and went for one day and then coming up a steep boat ramp car coolant level light came on and shut off , had water . upon driving about 15 miles then stopped and noticed water all underneath the car , water had to put in it again . then droveit the next day about 12 miles then stopped for 3 hrs and then in firework traffic and noticed the car was getting hotter to the middle line of temp gauge , was in traffic about 15 minutes and then about 7 miles down the road coolant light came on and i stopped resivior was empty filed it and went on maybe 2 miles empty again and water underneath car ,let it cool off about 1 hr and then filled it and left went about 3 miles light never came back on and water still in resivior but some gone and water underneath car again uopn arriving at my house , had temp gauge replaced about 3 months ago , any suggestions . sorry so long just wanted to tell you everything , thank you donna

I HAVE TO CHANGE THE INNER RINGS.

i cant go more than 15 mi8le per hour if i am accelerating

the tempature gauge never went up past 1 fourth of the way now it sets at half way and goes up to 280 when idleing or the air in on high.

engine light flashing,car jerking CodePO300 replaced #4 coil. Five days latter doing the same thing again everytime you start it. Will this damage the cataletic converter to drive to mechanic 3 miles away?

does anyone know

i want to fix my horn myself without paying a high price to dealer repair shop. i understand there is a simple way,but must becareful of air bag comming out.

I want to convert my ac. my car is not making cold air when I turn on the ac..it's blowing, so i know it's not the compressor.

its for a 2004 chevy trailblazer 4.2 2wd.

recently i found out the rear side marker bulbs were missing, so i installed them. about 2 or 3 weeks later my air bag light started coming on. when this happens battery light comes on then turn signals would not work this was intermittent. this went on for about a week, then car would not start. found if i put the car in neutral it would start. that lasted about a week. now car will only start once after that have to let it sit for hours

I CHECKED THE FUSE AND AND IT IS FINE

shaking gets worse as the speed increases. At first thought it was the tires and replaced the front tires. The shaking went away for the most part but was still happening around 50mph to 65mph. Now the shaking is back and is very bad. the steering wheel also shakes when the car shakes. Is this just an alignment issue? Fingers crossed I hope thats it..

my a/c belt broke so when i replaced it, i also went a head and changed the tensior pulley and now when the a/c is on and i hit the gas to pass, it makes a loud noise. when i look, it appears that when the gas in pressed and the RPM reve up that the pulley hits the bracket that is is on and i do not know what to do.

we drive @ 10,000 miles a year,we dont know if it needs ailignment or shocks ans struts fixed, it does not make any noises or vibrations when we slow down or drive.

While going up a hill I had the cruise on and lost power. The reduced engine light came on and the cruise has quit. I pulled over and turned off the motor and restarted and the the was out but the cruise still didnt work and then the light came back on after a couple of miles. It comes on everyday and most times if I run the air conditioner it sputters. I have learned to deal with the service engine light but I dont know what to do about the reduced engine power and the cruise.

Thought it was the burnt rotor and possible crack in cap but upon replacement , problem still there . Added water remover & dry gas to fuel tank , problem still there . Could it be a fouled plug , bad coil ??? Dont know what to inspect to try and find the problem !!! Any suggestions ???

it dosen't want shift from 1st to 2nd

i bought the coolant, but not sure where to attach under the hood.

had hard starting problem. now it wont start. applying power to test terminal for a couple seconds powers up fuel pump, then car will start. sometimes idle speed is erratic. does the same with spare PCM. no codes. ignition functions fine. that was all replaced about a year ago.

Started Friday after traveling about 300 miles. Sounded like a lifter rattling, but its not in the engine. It's down low and in the front.

have replaced the motor, and relay

have had the head replaced

Have a wet passenger floor board, so think this hose is plugged.

I have 1990 K1500, 5.7 L, 4WD. , Ext cab/bed, 720R4 trans.
Diff. cover has 10 bolts. I'm not sure on the gear ratio. I'd prefer to change out the entire rear end. Do I need an exact match or do I have other options. I understand that gear ratio is specific? Can I find the same ratio on a different year model, or one with a 12 or 14 bolt pattern . What about an upgraded RE if there is such a thing, Are there ways to improve performance, would I want to? For what reason? I just had to have the trans. rebuilt and my diff. goes bad a week later, so cost is an issue. Thanks in advance for any input you can offer!

When I move the air flow control to defrost, the tapping sound stops. When I move it to direct air flow to any other position (i.e., front vents alone or front and lower vents or just the lower vents), the taping sound returns. After a long (and annoying) time, the tapping sound eventually stops. Fan speed has no effect on this. A/C on or off has no effect on this.

It seems like a solenoid but I don't know. Anyone have any clue? I haven't found a repair manual that addresses this part of the air cooling/heating controls in the dash.

Thanks.

I is worse when it is hot outside and when I ride the brake it stops. Also the rear rim is substantially hotter than the rest when I get out to check them.

I have no oil pressure reading on my gauge.