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Blower and A/C working fine but no heat. Any ideas?
we already replaced the thermostat and the coolant sensor
When I come to a braking or press on the gas to pull off the car on the right side trembles and the ABS and Traction light comes on. After awhile of driving they go off. The check engine light is on as well. Problem occurs daily. Also check gas cap light comes on after readjusting.
the shifting problems occur sometimeswhen the car is warmed up. you dont have to drive it but 30 miles and it will start shifting extremely hard. it only has 85000 miles on it and the car has not been beat tranny tluid is full. please answer as soon as possible
blower motor only works on HIGH
Since 2008 of May I have had a persistent check engine light come ON then OFF only after the problem was thought to have been fixed by the Chevy dealer. Light would stay OFF for weeks or months with no engine light when car codes have been diagnosed and components replaced, only for the light to reappear again. This has stumped this Chevrolet dealership service dept. in Acton, MA. for the last 1 1/2 years with my 1998 Camaro Z28 5.7L with 150,000 miles but running good 20/21 mpg 50/50 city/highway on average. In the last 1 1/2 years I have replaced the left side cats twice, aftermarket cats by Custom Exhausts in Reading, and went thru 6 O2 new GM sensors, 2 new GM air pumps, and still my engine light remains on (not blinking), this after 3 complete diagnostic scans by dealer with valid codes worked on by dealer too. Unrelated back in 1998-1999 under the mfr. warranty, I’ve had 2 fuel pumps in tank replaced along with a bad Map Sensor, and did not have an engine light come on until recently in 2008. I recently tried going back to 93 Octane after 10 years of using 87 Octane with no luck in turning off this persistent engine light that currently remains on. After 2 tanks of 93 and no success with it turning light off, I went back to 87. I get no Knocking with any octane. Dealer says to just keep chasing down the codes until it’s finally fixed but this car is nickel and diming me to bankruptcy. Massachusetts has very strict annual car inspections. It’s a shame a simple engine light can do in a great car that goes thru regular routine maintainence. In self-diagnostic road tests recently I notice all the time now that when I accelerate hard the transmission stumbles as if the air pump has gone faulty again. The automatic transmission runs great and normal around town but seems it can’t get into high gear and stumbles and hesitates and is not smooth on hard acceleration only from 0 - 100, but the transmission will behave normally smooth when accelerating easily 0 - 100 mph. All fluids are up to level. Tranny fluids were replenished at 60,000. All 150,000 miles have seen only easy driving. With normal driving both city and highway the car runs great all around but with an engine light on. The general engine scans codes point back to the cat. If this is so, why did I run with no light for 7 months on this replaced cat. How can a cat be so out of spec that it plays havoc on the O2 sensors? New O2 sensors are also giving codes of low voltage too. If I replace the Cat with a G.M. replacement it will be a costly mistake if the engine light remains on and I've learned that GM does not make cats for this car anymore, so is there a way to bypass the cat or o2 sensors on diagnostic scans? some say I may have destroyed the knock sensors by using 87 octane since 1998. I do not hear any knocking noise. Can a pin hole leak in the Y pipe be welded closed too?
Doing a clutch pressure plate throw out bearing clutch fork and fork ball replacement when trying to remove trans input bearing at rear of crank shaft not enough bearing left to remove with anything I have on hand is it permissable to use a small die grinder to reach into the back of the crank shaft and carefully grind the remaining bearing into then remove over 3/16 of brass bearing left deep in hole
this scared the crap out of my wife, she lost acceleration, had to coast over while in rush hour traffic. Turned the vehicle off, waited a couple of minutes and it worked fine... there was not reason for any of this no rain, no reason, dry weather, not driving under any condition to trigger this.
also p1351 ignition control circuit high voltage also evaporative emission system code p0440. i would like too know how to fix those issues
SHUTTERS UNDER LOAD GOING UP HILL. EVEN ON SMALL GRADES.
LEVEL ROADES IT RUNS FINE. HAPPENS AROUND 45-60MPH
My car suddenly started to act like it's missing and going up hills looses speed and power, starts popping from under the hood like sputtering and is idleing very rough what could it be.
There is no power to the interior cab of my 1989 Camaro RS 2.8 L V6. No lights, radio, etc. Completely no power. What can cause this to happen. Found a cut wire at the stater and connected it back together, still no power. Could it have blown anything else?
How do u disconect the wire from the switch ?
where is horn relay located 1994 Chevrolet S10 pickup
driving along truck slow down and stop. starts again with no problen. check engine light on
replaced gas cap,changed oil,replace air filter
I have a squeal on the drivers front side , is it brakes or wheel bearings? starts at 30 mph stops when I put on the brakes
What is the average cost to replaced power steering hose, on my 1995 Monte Carlo?
But the light is not on. How do I replace the bulb?
A friend took off the battery and replaced an oxygen sensor and I thought the issue was resolved, but when I took it back to get it inspected after driving 300 miles, now they say the engine light is on but it is not. It also is giving a P0420 code. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks rkl
The wipers worked intermittently last year, then quit working altogether. I can purchase a replacement fairly easily, but I have very little mechanical experience, and only a few basic tools
i just replaced the optispark,wires and plugs twice
Have used at least 1 gallon of additive/injector cleaner has NOT made any difference. Took it to AutoZone checked the computer for codes NONE. Runs fine once you get away from Idle.
I've had the car a little over a year.....this is the first time this has happened, but I can't turn off the key and stop the engine from running.
Could this be a big problem?
the drive shaft seal was replaced and now it is leaking automatic fluid again.It seems like it was ok till we went over a bad dip on the road and then it started to leak again.
How can I do that quickly yet completely?
it will restart, when i put it in drive it stalls again,usually after five minutes it will start and drive again, the car had not been driven for 8 yrs only occasional starting it had a quarter tank of old gas i put in gas treatment& fuel injection cleaner and added twenty dollars in gas .It has had a tune up ,fuel injectors cleaned, new fuel filter. I saw the old fuel filter and it looked like small pieces of rust or dirt.
driving over bumpy roads cause a rattling sound in the front brakes. When I ride the brake pedal over the same stretch of road the rattle sound goes away. I pulled the front tires off, put load on the shock and tapped with a rubber hammer and couln't replicate the sound.
Where is the DRL relay located?
HORN DOESN'T HONK WHEN LOCKING WITH REMOTE KEY FOB. IS THERE A FUSEOR WHAT?