Chevrolet 2500 Pickup QuestionsRefine by vehicle
Not so long ago when I would turn on the turn signal, the speedometer dial would jump up and down while sitting still.
Now it is doing it even without the turn signal on.
What's the problem?
I changed the Maf, Map, Tbs, Iac, and idle starts out correct then rises from 900 to 1800 rpms. How can i fix it?
i changed the intake gasket on my truck. i put it back together and aligned the distrubutor. now when i try to start it, it just pops out of the carbuerator. i need to know if im doing something wrong
I replaced the MAF checked for torn boots and vacuum leaks and everything looks good. I replaced my stock air intake with a spectra cold air intake system which required me to lengthen the wires to the MAF. All the connections look and feel good and are hooked up properly. Could to big of a gauge of wire cause more resistance than typical? Or did I just make a big mistake by changing air intakes?
how to take out dome lite
need cost to replace motor mounts
This problem is really on a 1985 Chevy 2500. I am having problems getting the pressure differential valve to reset to turn off the brake light on the dash. I changed out the master cylinder, then bled the brakes but I cannot get the light to go off. What is the trick to resetting this. I also still have a low pedal on the truck. The brakes seem to be working fine other than a low pedal and the light stating on all the time.
i had to but the battery charger on my truck, somehow the speedometer quit working it now reads 180km how can i fix this
no start changed crank sensor fule pump cap roter will start for months and then nothing good pressure spark sounds like timing off
It started with the Speedometer not working and the Buzzer going off. Battery died and and wouldn't charge. tested Batt./Alt. Batt. was bad changed it. It seems I've stuck my meter just about everywhere. And every time I turn the key to just "ON" !POP!
I have by-passed the core hoses and need to replace the core.
Twice now when I go to start my truck the starter clicks like the battery is dead. Then, when I release the key from the crank position immediately the wipers come on,the gauges flip to pointing down, and the heater control panel goes to default. While this is happening it will crank if I turn the key but not start and wipers continue to run. One time I jiggled the battery cables and all was well. I changed the cable ends, thinking it was a ground issue. This morning it did the same thing immediately after starting. I backed out of the drive and after about 10 seconds the wipers started, engine stalled. After about 30 seconds the wipers stopped and it restarted with no intervention on my part,(battery cable wiggling etc.). Ran fine the rest of the day. Showed about 13 volts on the gauge and started 4 more times with no issue. Battery is less than 12 months old and holds a good charge. Theories??
my engine is a6.0 fleet truck the security system has the fuel pump shut down how do i reset
Actually, it's a 350 cu in chevy motor in a 1984 boat with less than 200 hrs on engine. It starts, runs 5-10 min., then dies when you ease back on the throttle, then won't start again for 30 to 45 minutes. What could be causing this?
A few days ago I stopped at a store & when I started to drive again, I noticed that my engine was overheating. Just as I noticed it & was getting ready to pull off the road to stop I noticed the temp. was rapidly decreasing, so I continued to drive. This happened a couple times, so I thought it was only happening when I slowed down or stopped & started driving again, but then the next day I noticed it doing the same thing while continually driving around 55 MPH. What would cause it to rapidly over-heat & then rapidly cool down while driving a steady speed, over & over again? Would it more than likely be the water pump or possibly be something more serious, like a cracked head?
Btw, I havent noticed any fluid leaking anywhere either.
how does the relay work
heater blower works but defrost doesn't,speed control is working
Can anyone tell me where the starter relay is on my truck? My problem is that the truck runs fine, cranks fine except the other day I drove the truck cranked and killed it several times. After just turning off the engine I went to crank it again and nothing. I checked everything battery ok, connections ok, beat on the starter nothing. I left the truck overnight, n ext morning it started fine making me think that possibly the starter relay may have stuck open not making the connection. I am sure that everything checked out even tried repositioning the gear shift. when the key was in the on position fuel pump was on. Any suggestions?
Truck surges when stopped and in gear what could be the problem?
Truck is actually a 2003 with 68000 miles on it. Truck has never had a problem, never over heated. Started ticking, took truck in - needed an exhaust manifold gasket. The dealer calls back and says two bolts also need replacing and water pump and thermostat need replacing. Cost - a bit over 2 grand. Pretty depressing as original problem was just a 25 gasket and time (if you do it yourself). What is the average cost for these repairs?? I think I am being squeezed....
no power to fuel pump checked fuses replaced relays unless there is one im overlooking
I need to know what the abbreviations stand for on the fuse that is out, they are RWAL TCC ESC ECM thanks
This is actually a 1989. I don't think it should matter...but 1990 was the earliest option. Anyway...standard chevy truck with the digital temp adjustment. I'm about 50% on being able to adjust it up or down. Some days it will move...some days it wont. When starting and stoping the engine there is also an odd "whirring" noise from the mid dash area. That seems to happen about 100% of the time.
Anyone have any ideas how to start troubleshooting this.
will i lose much fuel when i take the filter off, thanks
My truck has been running great ! Today it started and then quit. It would run for a couple of seconds and then die. It finally started but cut out after a few miles [ I was going home from work ] and the check engine light came on and is still on. I did replace the fuel filter. Checked wires at the distributor. Need the truck to get to work. HELP
i need to know what kind of transmission i have in my truck its an automatic 4x4 with overdrive
front end shakes radically even at low speed.
i am working on a chevy 6.5 turbo diesel. the pump is now removed, and being tested for repairs by a reputable shop. my question is: is it possible for the gear that attaches to the front of the pump w/3 bolts, able to have the timing changed on removal, or is the clearance in the timing cover limiting the ability of the gear timing from being changed?
turn signals are not working but hazards are working properly. is this a short in the wires or a switch or plug or fuse? checked all fuses and they are not blown
is there a way to re-seal intake manifold between the two vavle covers by the distrubitor without removing entire assembly? also what is the correct timing setting on this moter V8 350 5.7L please.