turns over ,gets fuel,just not starting

quit two days ago want two reinstall another one and need your help.

I have already purchased the moog pitman and idler arm and would like to install it my self if it dose not require any special tool.

Runs really rough but if I unplug the tan and black wire for timing the truck runs fine. Then when I shut the truck off and plug the wire back in it won't start but if I unplug it, it starts right up.

Im having problems when i accelerate primarily up hill or accelerating quickly, it feels like something is popping and catching and my truck is very rough and it feels like something is just going to fall out or snap, transmission fluid just changed along with fluid, need to check the rear differential fluid but dont know where the plug is nor what it looks like

I have replaced the resistor but still have the same problem

we have changed it 2 times and still leaks rite after we start it

I'm replacing the cd player unit and need a little help on how to remove the dash. any ideas?

leaking getting worse since i did the valve case clean out and oil change

I am trying to replace the door latch on the drivers side door. It has auto locks. The door when shut wont latch. I bought a latch but cant figure out how to replace it. Can you help me?

My temperature gauge starts out fine and then it will quickly rises to borderline hot and then quickly return to normal several times on a 10 minute drive to work. i noticed this after i bypassed the heater core. topped off all the coolant and no leaks can't figure it out. the engine doesn't seem to be as hot as the gauge reads. please help.

First my heater only worked on high, so i changed the resistor. And it was working on all the speeds. Then I noticed that when i try to put it on defrost only or to change the settings it doesn't change, the heat just blows out of everywhere. About a month after we changed the resistor, I noticed the fan would work on all the settings except high. Now just a couple weeks ago it started to make a loud noise and it stopped working all together. You can hear it going but barely anything at all comes out of the vents. I let the truck run for about 45 mins and my windshield was barely defrosted.

I know there are no simple answers to this, but need a fix for pinion gear bind under load i.e. pulling or hauling. 1995 Chevrolet 4X4 pickup, 5.7L, 5spd tranny with 175,000 miles on original motor. Motor and tranny are awesome (I've owned since new) so would like to fix. This is a clean, good running truck.

put in a new transmission and now my speed odometer wont work at all.

I was driving all day with a freind of mine my truck was fine not a problem at all. Then I droped him at his house when I got to my rould, the truck stared jerking real bad. I was presing the gas but it would not go and I heard the mouter reving realey bad. Then it dieid and all the problem lights came on but the truck would not tern over. I tried jumping it but is still would not start. I repased the fuel filter. But I don't know what to do,can you help me. Thanks A. Evans

replascing the heads do you have to resurface the block?

brake job for 4 wheel drive chevy silverado


i changed the relays for the truck i also tryed putting my old lights in also tryed flipping lights around checked the ground wire also

Happens maybe once a week or so. Doesn't matter if it's cold or hot. Truck runs fine and no trouble codes. It does not matter what fuel grade I use and tried using injector cleaners and octane boosters with no change. Also the backfire will sometimes blow out the PCV valve and fills the engine compartment with smoke. I was thinking that it's a timing problem but the computer controls timing but not while cranking I suspect. Maybe some kind of carbon build up? I also use Mobil 1 oil. Engine has 93K miles. Thanks.

my truck seems hard to steer at times- fluid is fine- I had a mechanic tell me the front left wheel bearing is really bad and the right one is just bad after I had a tune up and he took for a ride due to the chugging I felt at 50mph. the tune up fixed that problem. how do i know if i have a wheel bearing problem?

Part by part I have replaced everything on the a/c system except the evaporator, after all pieces replaced including the clutch fan "new", I evac/recharged,oil per mfg.requirements and I still have excessive high side pressure enough to pop the relief valve on back of compressor and at times almost stops enough to make the serpt slip (burn smoke)....tried everything short of replacing evaporator?...

I have a 1996 Chev. 1500 with a 5.7 liter engine with 162,000 miles. The speedometer and tachometer having been working erratically. It starts working good and then after a few minutes the needles start jumping aroung and the quit working. The speedometer and tripometer will quit working. Then the vehicle will start off in second instead of first. The other gauges continue to work. I brought it to a mechanic and he had the instrument control panel taken out and sent off for diagnosis. The reply was that there no problem with the panel. The mechanic then said it was most likely an internal transmission problem.

Any ideas and on probable cause(s) and solution(s)?

I am looking for what the wires that plug into the heater/ ac controls do. I have a bad unit and need to bypass the hot cold switch somehow to blow heat. I cannot afford to buy another switch for a few weeks and need heat!! The fan works, the area selector does not, nor the recirculate or the ac on switch . i know i prob need a resistor, but what value and what wires?

My check gauges light comes on the tac and speedo dont work also the truck wont shift out of third gear?

the idle is very high some times its at 1500 rpms sometimes and it made my truck shift real hard that it broke my transmission what could it be?

i started it up the other morning fine never had problems starting ever. then after i shut it off it never started again just cranks over constantly. i checked if i was getting fuel and if there was pressure in the line and its good then i pulled the spark plugs and turned it over and they all spark,so i went and bought new ones to see if theres a differnce and the all spark the same also while the plugs where out it spit fumes of gas out of the spark plug wholes so im getting gas to the cylinders and theres spark. shouldnt it ignite the fuel and fire. i got it to fire up for a second a couple times but just went back to cranking for ever killed the battery trying so had to recharge the battery. now about 2 months ago after driving the truck wen it would warm up it would all of a sudden not shift into over drive on the highway it would stay n 3rd unless id slow down and also feel a lil hesitant wen id try to give it gas it would take a second to pick up speed but wen i turned the truck off and let it cool down i could start it and drive away and it would shift fine no problems till about 10 or 15 min. of driving it would start doing it agin do u think this had something to do with it not firing up any more? i read sometihng about if a crankshaft position sensor or ignition control module go out it would crank long with now fire cuz it would lag on the firing time and it also said it could have shifting issues also? so how do i check either of those??

The main rear engine seal is leaking as well as the seal on the end of the transmission. What is the typical repair costs?

happens all the time

going down the highway about 55-60, transmission will jump in and out of overdrive, the rest of the time it shifts fine.changed the trans. fluid and filter, no help, but after checking online forums going to check map sensor today.