1,226
questions

IT ACTS LIKE THE BRAKES ARE KEEPING THE ENGINE FROM REVING UP. WHEN PLACED IN FIRST GEAR IT WILL USUALLY RUN OK, THEN SHIFTING UP MANUALLY IT WILL BOG AND SOMETIMES DIE COMPLETLY.TRANS HAS FLUID.

oil gauge always reads passed 80 but runs fine and oils level good

My heater only works in High mode and the blowe fan is very noisy. How do I get to the blower motor to change it.

i have changed pump and fliter still only reads 20 psi witch is why i replaced them in the frist place it cranks but it will not start . however it has spark to the coiles and i have inspected the charging sistem to check the voltage to the new pump.i can not check the regulator do to the assy and the fact that it has medal lines this truck will turn over it was working 20 day ago. dose any one know what else i can do or another way to check the regulator?im stumped and dont know what to do thanks to all who can help

Came out to truck, battery was dead. Had someone jump me and it ran till we disconnected jumper cables. Had battery checked, it was low but good after recharged, had alternator checked and it was okay. Finally checked sparkplugs for spark and there seems to be no spark. What should we check next?

turns over ,gets fuel,just not starting

quit two days ago want two reinstall another one and need your help.

I have already purchased the moog pitman and idler arm and would like to install it my self if it dose not require any special tool.

Runs really rough but if I unplug the tan and black wire for timing the truck runs fine. Then when I shut the truck off and plug the wire back in it won't start but if I unplug it, it starts right up.

Im having problems when i accelerate primarily up hill or accelerating quickly, it feels like something is popping and catching and my truck is very rough and it feels like something is just going to fall out or snap, transmission fluid just changed along with fluid, need to check the rear differential fluid but dont know where the plug is nor what it looks like

I have replaced the resistor but still have the same problem

we have changed it 2 times and still leaks rite after we start it

I'm replacing the cd player unit and need a little help on how to remove the dash. any ideas?

leaking getting worse since i did the valve case clean out and oil change

I am trying to replace the door latch on the drivers side door. It has auto locks. The door when shut wont latch. I bought a latch but cant figure out how to replace it. Can you help me?

My temperature gauge starts out fine and then it will quickly rises to borderline hot and then quickly return to normal several times on a 10 minute drive to work. i noticed this after i bypassed the heater core. topped off all the coolant and no leaks can't figure it out. the engine doesn't seem to be as hot as the gauge reads. please help.

First my heater only worked on high, so i changed the resistor. And it was working on all the speeds. Then I noticed that when i try to put it on defrost only or to change the settings it doesn't change, the heat just blows out of everywhere. About a month after we changed the resistor, I noticed the fan would work on all the settings except high. Now just a couple weeks ago it started to make a loud noise and it stopped working all together. You can hear it going but barely anything at all comes out of the vents. I let the truck run for about 45 mins and my windshield was barely defrosted.

I know there are no simple answers to this, but need a fix for pinion gear bind under load i.e. pulling or hauling. 1995 Chevrolet 4X4 pickup, 5.7L, 5spd tranny with 175,000 miles on original motor. Motor and tranny are awesome (I've owned since new) so would like to fix. This is a clean, good running truck.

put in a new transmission and now my speed odometer wont work at all.

I was driving all day with a freind of mine my truck was fine not a problem at all. Then I droped him at his house when I got to my rould, the truck stared jerking real bad. I was presing the gas but it would not go and I heard the mouter reving realey bad. Then it dieid and all the problem lights came on but the truck would not tern over. I tried jumping it but is still would not start. I repased the fuel filter. But I don't know what to do,can you help me. Thanks A. Evans

replascing the heads do you have to resurface the block?

brake job for 4 wheel drive chevy silverado

I CRACKED BOTH HEADS ON MY TRUCK

i changed the relays for the truck i also tryed putting my old lights in also tryed flipping lights around checked the ground wire also

Happens maybe once a week or so. Doesn't matter if it's cold or hot. Truck runs fine and no trouble codes. It does not matter what fuel grade I use and tried using injector cleaners and octane boosters with no change. Also the backfire will sometimes blow out the PCV valve and fills the engine compartment with smoke. I was thinking that it's a timing problem but the computer controls timing but not while cranking I suspect. Maybe some kind of carbon build up? I also use Mobil 1 oil. Engine has 93K miles. Thanks.

my truck seems hard to steer at times- fluid is fine- I had a mechanic tell me the front left wheel bearing is really bad and the right one is just bad after I had a tune up and he took for a ride due to the chugging I felt at 50mph. the tune up fixed that problem. how do i know if i have a wheel bearing problem?

Part by part I have replaced everything on the a/c system except the evaporator, after all pieces replaced including the clutch fan "new", I evac/recharged,oil per mfg.requirements and I still have excessive high side pressure enough to pop the relief valve on back of compressor and at times almost stops enough to make the serpt slip (burn smoke)....tried everything short of replacing evaporator?...

I have a 1996 Chev. 1500 with a 5.7 liter engine with 162,000 miles. The speedometer and tachometer having been working erratically. It starts working good and then after a few minutes the needles start jumping aroung and the quit working. The speedometer and tripometer will quit working. Then the vehicle will start off in second instead of first. The other gauges continue to work. I brought it to a mechanic and he had the instrument control panel taken out and sent off for diagnosis. The reply was that there no problem with the panel. The mechanic then said it was most likely an internal transmission problem.

Any ideas and on probable cause(s) and solution(s)?

I am looking for what the wires that plug into the heater/ ac controls do. I have a bad unit and need to bypass the hot cold switch somehow to blow heat. I cannot afford to buy another switch for a few weeks and need heat!! The fan works, the area selector does not, nor the recirculate or the ac on switch . i know i prob need a resistor, but what value and what wires?
Thanks

My check gauges light comes on the tac and speedo dont work also the truck wont shift out of third gear?