The problem started this morning 05/27/2016. The car has 0ver 1000 miles to go before next service is due.

58000 on motor One of the ignition coils has been changed That I can see dont see any vac leaks plug wires dont look old

Replaced headgaskets seals, and a few other seals, then replaced fuel filter and she started again. But now she has white smoke out the tail pipe, and squirting water in the engine and sounds rough. Any ideas? Didn't happen when I first started her and driver her for an hour. She did ride rough but not that bad. Gauges are messed up and the check gestures light stayed on. Then I replace fuel filter and this happens. Please help


The security light has come (back) on. Local mechanic replaced the ignition lock cylinder when the light previously came on. Since then the key will not go fully into the off position and cannot remove the key. I have tried using graphite which gives temporary relief but this is an everyday issue.

2003 Buick Regal
Symptoms include:
-started studdering in idle at long lights last week
-2 days ago, lost get up and go at acceleration, studdered, and not able to get above 30mph.
-was told its misfiring, changed spark plugs. Timing is off slightly
-overheated, wouldn't turn over
-smoke coming from where oil goes into, ONLY!
- found mud in radiator, flushed it out. Haven't blown it out tho.
-idle and drives rough, studders, stalls when slowing to make turn or at a light
-recently had a oil and oil filter change, and new fuel pump put on.

I need to replace the vent valve located on top of the canister and I cannot tell how to remove the whole assembly. I see no bolts holding it on just a white clip type thing that seems to keep it in place. The canister moves freely from the clip but with it being in such a tight area I cant see how the remove it.

I have a 3800 series II supercharged version. The past few winters I've had the problem of the rpm gauge fluctuating from below 1000 to 2500 and sometimes shuts off if the gas pedal isn't being pushed. This only happens during the winter and normally only when the car hasn't heated up yet. Today it also shut off while waiting on a light and when I turned the key to start it did nothing at all. A few minutes later it turned back on.

My car drives normal then it starts to stall and shuts off. Immediately I restart it and it has strong gas smell threw out the car like it is dumping to much gas and it runs rough. I turn it off let it sit for 2 mins and it runs fine for a couple of miles. I took it in too the shop and they said the ECM is not reading the car.

Unsure how this relates, but headed out of town, stopped to fill up using E85. Still had 1/4 of 89 oct in the tank. 70 miles later engine light comes on and car starts smoking.

Dealer says #4 injector is stuck open & #4 plugs is fouled. Dealer replaced #4 injector & all plugs.
Dealer says #3 injector is now dumping fuel.

What else could cause this problem? I don.t want to pay dealer costs to replace each injector just to find out is was caused by something else.
I'm not familiar with direct injection, but this sounds like it'd have some to do with the engine management system?

My fuel gauge stopped working about a year ago, so I have to calculate my mileage so I don't run out of gas. Next my odometer light started fading and went completely out, but sometimes it comes back on as bright as before. Is there a cause and fix for both of these issues?

Can a broken a/c pump on a 1995 cutlass supreme prevent the car from being drivable?

Could u drive the 95 buick while the ac pump is broken? Will the car start up & drive while the a\c pump is broken?

there is no ignition, the wont get any signal.
the battery is functional and all lights are functional.
i tried to hot-wire the ignition part then the car started then it stopped.

location to add fluid

While all this happening the speedometer, and odometer not working either.