Close

Buick Questions

Get answers to questions about your Buick at RepairPal. Find solutions, diagnose problems and get back on the road.

Refine by vehicle
×
Choose your vehicle
7,150
questions

My driver's side window will go down but will not go back up. At first, it went up intermittently and slow, but now it won't go up at all. My window is still on the track so I don't think it's the regulator. I am not sure if it is the motor or the switch. The other window switches on the driver's side door work. How can I tell what the problem is?

Have allready had the crane sensor change out.

had buick dealership look at it and thats what they told me

hello
were are the oxygen sensor located on a 1995 riviera buick

The tracking light goes off as soon as I start the and I am wondering if that could harm the car?

awhile what is wrong and what can I do to get it fixed

I went to the dealership and that is what they charge to reprogram the keypad

The temp is set the same on both sides, but hot air comes out of the passenger vents.

then had it manually bled.....emergency cable on brake is broken at adjustment under drivers seat on the outside...but did hook it up to r rear wheel lever ....seems to b in off position......when driven only short distance the wheel is very hot and smells.....

I just replaced the stock stereo in my Skylark and now the Dashboard and Tail lights are not working (brake lights and interior lights work fine). I checked the fuse and even replaced it with a brand new one and they still don't work.

i have taken my car 3 times to emissions and each time the test aborts. they tell me to drive the car more and more. I replaced the cat about 250 miles now and it still wont pass the test. does anyone know how many miles until the drive cycle resets for this car?

This has been an ongoing problem. First it appeared the engine would not run when it was hot. Was told it was the ICM so that was changed out. After the ICM swap, the car would not run cold or hot. Was told a shorted Cam sensor would cause it. Swap out the cam sensor and car would then crank and run but the return to the stalling after idling. Was told the crankshaft sensor could be bad. Replaced the crankshaft sensor and drove the car six miles when it stalled on me. Towed home, the next day the engine started and ran, turn it off. That evening went to move the car and it would crank but not start.

The next morning the car crank and started, noticed smoke at the EGR valve, thinking electrical, turn engine off, checked EGR wiring, found nothing, attempted to start car it would not start. Thinking stuck EGR valve, I removed the EGR valve and disassembled it. The solenoids did not appear to be sticking and there was not a lot of build up of gunk; just normal exhaust residue. I cleaned everything and reassembled the EGR valve and installed it back on the engine. I had removed the battery cable to clear out the code where I unplugged the camshaft sensor. I started the car and it ran rough for a bit but then smoothed out. As I was standing by the car it would stumble a bit at times and I noticed the serpentine belt tensioner was jerking and I could hear a bearing squeal at times. I turned the engine off to check the tensioner pulley and I could feel when turning it that the bearing is starting to go.

I then started the engine, or attempted to start the engine and it would not start, it would turn over and appear to fire but not run. The engine had warmed up a bit but not hot; I could place my hand on the radiator without it burning me. I tried spraying some starting fluid into the intake connector tube (through a split; will need to replace it later) and attempted to start the engine without any luck. It would be nice if I had a helper but I don't.

So I decided to let it sit a bit to see if it would run after cooling a bit. I hooked the fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail and later started the car and it ran fairly smooth, the RPMs did change a bit, slowing a bit and the fuel pressure as the engine was running was approximately 39 psi. The car only ran for a short time before it started stumbling again and I noticed the fuel pressure gauge swing up to around 50 psi and when the engine died the fuel pressure stopped at 46 psi.

To recap, the coolant sensor, the ICM, the camshaft sensor, and crankshaft sensor have been replaced. The Mass Air Flow sensor was cleaned and the TPS was checked with an ohmmeter and appeared to not have any opens, the ohmmeter needle swung continuously as the TPS was moved through its range.

past winter, one side blows hot and the other side blows cold as if I am running the a/c. Any ideas??

I am having trouble with a right side interior dash leak. I can't seem to locate the problem and don't know what is needed to fix the car. does anyone know what is wrong and what needs to be done to fix this problem?

its it doesn't try to turn over its like its of but if you wait 5 to 10 mins or come back in an hour the car starts right up, and runs great wwhat is it?

still has noticable leak that rests in the frame well where the radiator sits, there are small wells and the coolent is there. Had a mechanic put on the pressure "thing" it showed no loss, but I don't know how long he had it on, or how long it HAS to be on before it reveals a loss of pressure. The radiator was replaced two years ago, spark plugs, wires, all hoses connected with the radiator, BUT DID not REPLACE the water pump OR the thermostat. How effective would be having a diagnostic dye put in? IF it is the water pump, OR the thermostat, would the diagnostic dye reveal THAT? I am having a cow

Changed fuses and all the light bulbs. Still doesn't work.

ABS, AWD lights stay on, melting rearview mirror, front end shaking. Is there a website i can go to & type in vin # to find recall maintenance and repairs?

ABS, AWD lights stay on, melting rearview mirror, front end shaking. Is there a website i can go to & type in vin # to find recall maintenance and repairs?

Also, my rearview mirror is literally melting and has caused reflection to become blurred, what is causing these problems??

the key became logged in the ignition,replaced with new switch but the engine will not turn over,it was running fine until this happen, the switch came with two wires attached,can you bypass this anyway to make the car start or what is the next step to getting car to start,everything else has power, is it something to do with the key,because the new key does not have the the little code things on them,need help must be able to get to work, i had ohm the old key and the code 3 is 677ohms, thanks, i really need help.

I read 5 volts on one and 13 on another I presume those to be right and the third wire must go to the ECM?

I'm trying figure out why my A/C is not working correctly. It works on normal while driving, but not setting still. The compressor cluth does not engauge.

Where do I find a power window master switch and how do I replace it?

Need to know about front power window switches and wiring.

Need to know about front power window switches and wiring.

Front power windows were working fine, then both just stopped working at the same time.

Front power windows were working fine, then both just stopped working at the same time.

Will re-charge system. But, can't locate problem with blower. I assume it's the resistor. Please advise

Losing oil from the intake gasket. Also, the coolant tube right below the intake on the passenger side leaks.