Car now has 94K miles. Seemed to occur after an extreme cold spell that was so cold my car wouldn't turn over without a jumpstart

Is there a special tool for this?

does this model have an anti theft system? i dont have the manual for the car

My '01 325xit has been nearly trouble free for 189,000 miles. (Two window motors replaced as stated in the other comments.) It was running great, until I brought the car in for brakes and an alignment, and they found the oil leak (mentioned in previous comments), told me I needed a new compressor (a/c was working fine), coolant hose replaced, oil pan leak (in addition to the one above. This was $4274.92. The next week, 140 miles later, the alternator went out. They admitted it was partially their fault because of the solution they used to clean the engine, but that the alternator was "old". $500. Two weeks later (and 400 miles) , the car started "chugging" and could barely accelerate: new spark plugs and ignition coils on all 6 cylinders. $1095.00. Now the "Service Engine" light goes on and off, the car "chugs" again on and off, and it seem to slip/miss/or backfire at times when I accelerate from a stopped position (but it has also occasionally done this on the freeway). Are they screwing up my car?

the reverse light pins replaced by dealer I think all lights on rear of car recalled but not reverse lt.

I have the run flats but it is still noticeable.

The above and power windows are out. Is there a common fuse, other? that could account for this?

Is there a fuse common to all of these systems, and if so which and where? Thanks.

when i try picking up speed in my car it feels like my car wont pick up speed and it starts to shake really bad. I have all new tires and my rims arent bent i just got a wheel allignment. It doesnt do it all the time but it does it enough for me to notice.

tried to get boost just clicking with all lights on.

1. when the speed goes above 60mph, the front of the car starts to vibrate. i can also feel vibration beneath the car.
i even got the balance and rotation test done recently. but one month after the test i have this issue that came up.what could be the reason for this vibration.

2. the other issue is when i start the car, the rpm needle goes close to zero and i fell jerks in the car as if its going to stop.

please reply


It's intermittent and tough to replicate, but it's audible with the windows down and it sounds as if it's coming from the passenger side as well. I can feel the noise slightly through the steering wheel as well. Also, when braking the steering wheel shutters at highway speeds when getting off an exit.

Could this have been damaged when my transfer case and rear drive shaft were replaced under warranty?

I went to my car one morning and it wasn't starting I then realized it was the. Brake switch so then I repaired it and drove it for 2 days then it didn't start again I'm getting all power in my car everything works just won't start my mechanic said it can't be the starter so I don't know what else it would be after that

the light just illuminated today after i had not driven the car for about 2 weeks is this serious and do i need to get the brake system all checked

I just purchased my BMW 325xi. I know the chassis number is E-90, but I don't have the Engine designation for the 3.0. I haven't been able to find it. Can you help??

The car stops running after a few minutes of driving, it will re start and drive again and stall again, all light come on dash including pdf indicator..

iv looked to see if anyone else has but i can't find any online only of the 325i

i have driven car city 5 miles city about 40 t0 60 kmh hyghway 10 miles at 100 kmh did about 3 cycles with cold starts here temp outside is -10 6 to 8 hours apart

had code 2096 but could not find nothing so reprogrammed computer with upgrades now driven car for over a week of city and highway but evap cat and air not ready any idea how long this would take

It will eventually start if I shake the steering wheel and/or the steering column while I am turning the key. Sometimes it starts right away other times it takes several tries. Occasionally I only need to mess with the gear shifter to get it to start. What do you think is the problem?

I also replaced the fuel pump relay switch as well. Please help me I just bought this car.

into the fuel system and causing blue smoke to come out of the emission pipe. We were told it would take $2200 to repair it. They also said since it is a BMW they recommend the engine be replaced since it is so difficult to take apart and piece back together and that would be around $5000 or more! This car is the most comfortable, easy, smooth control in any road condition as it is all wheel drive I have ever had. I don't want to sell it but don't know if replacing engine is worth doing.


A couple weeks ago I took my car for an oil change and the next day when turmning on my car the car started shaking, trembeling and car would turn off when came to a complete stop. So I took it in again, they said it was the gas cap that was lose and that air went in and reacted. However I kept getting a the signal of a red car on my dash screen. I told them about it and they said it was because I need back rear breaks. well weeks later TODAY, I turn the car on starts, proceeds with a tremble and stops with a check engine signal. Obviously the dealer is pulling a game, but it's more than that. Your guidance, pointers, are must needed and appreciated. Thank you

The car still handles good on dry roads. When you hit slush or snow it feels like it all over the road like the rear end is loose. Had it checked everything seems ok. Do I need an alignment? Most threads indicate not necessary after spring install.

Outer cv boot covers are ripped. I was told that it was just as easy to replace the entire axel assembly as it is to replace the outer cv boots. Is this really necessary and is it cost effective? It seems to drive well.
Thanks again, Bill P.