Any suggestions. Sounds like its coming from the engine or the overhead cam.

couple weeks ago, my car start giving me some knid of problems like:

I can't get to gear "2" and the shifter wasn't smooth.
The reverse lights stay on even if the car is on "D" driving.
I can change gear even I do not ahve my foot on the Break. The shoe icon by the shifter is not iluminated more.
In "D" position my car sounds like I am driving in "2" position , if I take off my foot from the Accelerator the car will almost stop as if I am pushing the break pedal.

Please help me I believe is something from the Shifter, but can damage my transmision.

Thanks guy!!

happens as soon as car warms up . most pronounced when turning steering wheel to the right. Stops when you turn off automatic heating/cooling and reduce fan speed manually.

told I needed an exhaust sleeve to repair the exhaust pipe connected to engine. The clamp
was rusted and hanging. I looked up this part in Audi parts and could not find one. They mentioned that the exhaust system had some welding done to exhaust system at one time and a sleeve was put on the pipe verses a clamp.

Does this sound correct to you.

we changed the key igniton cylender and now when we start the car the gears are stuck and it does'nt move

when i first start the car it turn on for a couple min. then it die. and when i try to start it again it wont start

turn key to on position and the blower motor works.but when you start the car the blower motor will not work

Hi! I have been told by a local machanic that I may need to have the carbon removed from my engine. How can I verify this and is there some where I can read about it online? Also what are is the procedure for this problem? Is there an estimate of the amount of time it would take as well? My check engine light is on and when a put on the tester they found a vacuum error. They thought this may be a leak... Where would be a good place to start looking for the leak? Thanks Kate
you can email me at flywithkate@yahoo.com

My car turns on, drives, parks, etc. The problem I'm having is the key doesn't come out when we shut it off. I have tried turning the wheel back and forth, turning the car on and off, pulling the key and even called road services to see if they would know what to do.

about 3 times now in past 2 months my tailight warning light illuminates and the drivers side taillight stops working and the same tailight turn signal stop working. after sitting overnight, the light and signal work with no problem.

all of my lights are pulsating. i have replaced the alternator and battery. but i have a check engine light that as yet is unexplained. could this be the problem??

i have no manual and do not know what this display means..(O)

There is no sign of overheating0-gauges looks fine

my check engine light came on and I was told by a service machinic that it has to do with the cat not warmming up what do I need to do next.

First my keyless remote stopped working and I figured it was the battery and I wasn't in a hurry to replace it. But just the other night the actual key wouldn't open the door. What can it be?

want to know where the timing marks are on 2.8 engine

ABS light on freekwently / only one time with the burning smell /could the rear brakes be lock?

Audi slips/shifts roughly when shifting into drive. Diagnostic codes are 18232 and 18227. Suggestions?

This has been going on for about 10k miles. Engine light has been on. The car will not restart easily until atleast 15 minutes.

The problem is that I lost my only key. took the door panels off looking for a key number - none, then took the whole lock to a locksmith and not much help there. any ideas?

would a 2005 audi a6 3.2 engine fit to a 2006 audi a6 3.2


I am in DESPERATE need of some help here. I have been given the run around by at least 10 mechanics (I do not exaggerate.)

I have had nearly every component (Including the engine) replaced in my 99 A6, with exception to the transmission. I took my car to get repaired at a local Audi specialist where they replaced my engine and many other components, adapted the throttle etc. I then took my car to my local Audi dealership where they diagnosed my car for the surging/jolting. Audi first told me it was due to my fuel pressure regulator and would cost $280 to fix, I agreed, they did the repair. I test drove the car right off the lot of Audi and bam! I did a complete stop on an uphill slope, gave the car some gas, the RPMs revved to 3, while the car is still (mind you I still have my foot on the gas) then BOOM the car jolted harshly forward. It is even worse now! It only happens in 1st gear, then as I get going to higher speeds, it is fine, drives perfectly fine. It is 10x worse when I am on an uphill slope at a dead stop then get going. It's almost as if I am throwing the car in neutral, gas real hard then throwing it back in drive. This is not only unsafe as it happens to me when people who like to ride my tail try to speed up and I cannot go anywhere for a few moments then suddenly fly forward, but it's also very aggravating.

Both catalytic converters have been replaced, reason I state this is because one of the 10 mechanics stated this was a probable cause. Audi is now telling me it is the transmission, but that was only glance of their eye, they apparently are not allowed to look inside of a transmission due to liability issues?

There is no check engine light/codes, car was recently fully serviced before a road trip. I recently took the car for a road trip to Las Vegas from Colorado. The funny part is, the car BARELY surged, and when it did, it was not as harsh while in Vegas. Now Colorado is alot higher in elevation than Vegas. Could this be due to lower altitude? 02 sensor issue? I am at a completely dead end here and I am tired of throwing money to mechanics to try and figure this out.

Any help is GREATLY appreciated.

Thank you!

Hi so I found a 1997 Audi A6 quattro at a dealer for $995. There are a few problems with the car it needs a battery, thermostat, water pump, and belt. How much should I be spending on parts and labor? Is the car really worth it?

my park and tail lights stop work when i pluged a trailer in to the car. i checked all fuses i could find and they where ok, where else do i look.

what is the repairment estimate for a burned valve?

where are the vacuumhoses located? must replace/leaking

First symptom was heater only putting out cool air, engine temperature normal. After 1 1/2 days heater was putting out hot air again but engine temp. gauge periodically going from normal to cold then back to normal with a short time period. This has been going on for an additional 4 days of normal driving. Service shop first recommended core flush then recommended thermostat replacement. Core and system flush $200. Thermostat replacement around $600 but it is prudent to replace water pump, timing belt and other belts at the same time resulting in $1000 + in cost. Wondering if a coolant system flush should be tried first. A bit concerned about spending over $1000 and not resolving the problem. Car has 20K miles to go before timing belt needs replacement.

Car won't start, it was turning over normally but just would not catch, after continuing to try to start it turns over very fast when cranking. Come to find out didn't have any oil so I put some in the car, still won't start. Someone looked at it and told me that the belt was broke. Should I take my chances and replace the belt or does it sound like my engines gone.

time for a new one.

my computer box is not sending back the signal to give fire to my plugs what can i do to get that fix