I went to make a copy of my car key for my 1999 Acura 3.0CL 6 Cylinder at Pepboys. They told me that the key has a chip inside it so they cant make a duplicate and that I have to go to the dealership for that. They were busy and rude so I think they just didn't want to make me a copy of my key. However for future reference is it true that the ignition key for my car does have a chip inside it? I didn't think they started doing that until a few years ago and even then I though they were mainly on expensive cars? Please let me know if there is a chip or if they were lying and I can just go someplace else to have them make me a copy of the key. Thank you for your help.

What are the sytoms of wheel bearing problems and how soon do they need repairing?

I have been told that loud noise is wheel bearing problem in rear, could this problem have been forseen when brought in for the complaint of loud noise?

A very loud rumbling noise comes from the car when it is at 20-30 miles

would rotors be replaced without the pads???

just replaced the odometer censer still when it gets hot the transmission fills like its missing when i come to a complete stop it jerks

How to replace Belt for power steering drive



dose some one kno what side is the fuel on and how you would replace the fuel filter on a acura cl 2.2......thax

how is front brake rotor removed

Should I be worried at 165K mileage? Are these cars known for this problem

Next to the TCS light on the dashboard there is a light that appears to be the outline of the car's engine. It stays on when when car is started. What is it?

Initially, sporadic jerking. Month or so later, check engine light came on, then went away. Next time this warning came on, it was flashing, and the gears began to slip. The car drives but it cannot go up hills. I was told that I need a new transmission.

the car wont stay on could it be the fuel pump the plug are new

Have an intermittent no start problem. Engine turns over fine but will not start. Seems like it is not getting fuel or ignition unless you hold the accelerator to the floor. Could be coincidental. What are some things to check if it isnt doing it consistently. Please help!

My check engine light came on last fall and local auto store indicated that it was EGR valve. I had the part replaced at a NTB in Janauary. The check engine light has come back on, so I took the care back to Auto Zone to do a scan and they provided me with the code 1259. The local Acura dealer told me that the ports probably need to be cleaned. After reading on this site about the need to have an experienced tech work on these issues - I don't want to go back to NTB. Is there any potential that damage was done to the valve? How do i find a qualified technican?

both of my fans not workin whats wrong

Starting last week the temperature gauge in my car has been sitting at the 1/2 way mark which is not typical. Although it has been beetween 80-100 degrees here in DC! It usually sits at the 1/4 mark. When driving on the highway it stays just below 1/2 way mark. When using the AC it ran as high as the 3/4 mark. I stopped driving the car at this point as I did not want it to overheat. Checked the coolant and is good. I hope it’s not the fan? Thoughts please? Thanks Michelle

The driver's side seat will not slide back automatically.
What can be the problem? how to correct this problem?

How much should a oil change cost?

where is the input turbine speed sensor located ? Some one told me this is a fancy name for a speed sensors and that it would be located on the back of a hub ?

Oil, not transmission fluid, just started leaking from the torque converter case cover plate. Does anyone know what causes that and what the solution is?

840 pm friday, june 11th 2010 buying a used car needs replaced want to see what itd cost

My 99 Acura CL 3.0 MIL came on and read a P0740, which read that the TCC shift solenoid sensor was malfunctioning.
I replaced the solenoid sensor and reset the MIL.The light never came back on, but the shift problem persists.
When the car is first started or not at operating temperature yet, it shifts like a dream. When you reach operating temperature, the vehicle shifts VERY hard. It BANGS into reverse and first when shifting manually,and If you put it into drive4, it will not move.Only accelleration is the RPM's redlining.
I've been starting the car,putting it into first and waiting to feel the bang or "jerk" to depress the throttle pedal. I run it through first gear to 3500-4000 RPM, then pull my foot off the pedal before shifting into second.Then,when I feel the "jerk" I know I'm in second gear and can step on the throttle again.
Once in second,I shift manually and from there the car pretty much shifts normal.I mean, I can pretty much drive in drive4 and the car shifts up and down like it should, with no slipping.
Other than that the car is perfect!I can't figure for the life of me why this only happens while at operating temperature?Could it be a short? the PCM? the wiring? another sensor or solenoid that I missed? Could it be something with the TCC when it gets hot? Somebody out there please help me,as I am at my wits end with this diagnosing issue.PLEASE HELP!!! I DO NOT WANNA BRING THIS THING TO THE STEALERSHIP!!! THANK YOU!!!

i have a 2001 cl everything comes on but no start but when jump starts

My A/C compressor does not come on when I put the a/c on.
I check the plud that sends the power to the compressor there is no power, that is why I wonder is the relay is no good, but I can't find the locacation of the relay
Please you help me

When the weather gets warm, about 60F or more or cooler & sunny hot the passenger door lock appears to stick or struggle to open or close - kind of wiggles - cold out / no problems

When i speed up my car while driving over 40-45 it jerks very often and it loos as though its coming to a halt. I've also experienced slipping from D to 4, I felt unsafe so I called for a towing service, this guy took me to a newly opened garage service. They diagnosed and took for a test drive, told me that there was nothing wrong with the car. Then I opted to take the car along with the sales person for a test drive, my car jerked often, n in the middle of the busy road. The guy's heart was in his mouth, said he will refund the diagnostic money and asked me to take the car somewhere else, better at the Honda dealer in the city. The following morning I had to tow my car again which cost me over 200 bucks. The Honda dealer diagnosed it and said it was the Transmission which needs to be replaced. The sales person's estimated price was an arm and a leg (bet.5-6 grand). Presently I cannot afford an expensive repair or even buy another car. My Q...is this repair soooo expensive? Is there any place that can be done at a reasonable cost? The car works par excellent and is in good shape, it's just for this transmission assembly. You answer and help is appreciated.

i would like to install a transmission cooler on a 2003 acura cl 3.2. no cooler lines to the radiator. no obvious lines to use. thanks