Car is engine light is on and running like crap, since I got stuck in the snow today. I had to rock it out using the trans reverse and drive. What could possibly be wrong and how much does it normally cost to repair or reset/correct?

1998 Plymouth Neon, following a collision, it will not start. Turns over just fine. Is there a reset switch for the fuel pump? If so, where?

does the bottom part of the motor need to be taken off to get to the water pump or can u get to it from the top

The auto starts ok but has a rough idle, stalls after warm up on let off at 30mph. Has strong gas smell. Stalls at idle post warm up. Codes 33 EGR not closing, 42 rich fuel,41 oxygen sensor.--Changed sensor, cked EGR-- clean,closed & no vac. applied

Problem has been occurring for several years. GM dealer tech removes panel and manually rotates dial counter-clockwise to empty...then charges me $75 for 1 hour time, their minimum charge. Keeps occurring over and over. Dealer tech can find no help in their GM factory computer repair program.

Problem: Rear of interior does not have good air flow. On the passenger side, no heat/ac distribution for the back seat. Cold air flows along the right end of the seat, but no heat. The driver's side gets a good flow of heat from under the driver's side. Same problem in the summer only worse, the only way to provide cold air to the rear passengers is to turn up the fan full blast and point the front air ducts to the back.

A compression test was done and no leaks were found through the doors.

We do enable the interior air flow button, which has to be done manually.

Heater has occasionally smelled like exhaust coming through the heater. Now the heater will not shut off.

Two things have occurred simultaneously; the driver's seat gets hot after driving only 10 minutes or so and when I go to put on the brakes the engine acceleration greatly increases. It is very scary.

The last smog in 2009 it failed, and I need to know what I should fix to get it to pass this year.

It only failed at the 15mph, NO (PPM) MEAS at 1242, and the MAX is 778.

What needs to be fixed, and can I do it myself?

My mom has a 98 Buick LeSabre and in Oct '10 the head gasket went out so my mechanic replaced it. When we got it back, it ran fine for a short time and then it would stall while driving on occasion. Now it is almost undrivable, yesterday it stalled on my mom at least 60 times within an hour span, the check engine light is on and there is now a bolt light lit up on the dash. My mechanic has been looking at it but can't seem to come to a conclusion on what is happening and of course, does not have a scanner. He did replace some vacuum hoses that were bad but it didn't make a difference. Anybody have any thoughts on this? Sick of paying more money to have it looked at and starting to feel like he is taking advantage of 2 females.

My brake lights will not go out even when the car is turned off

wont start!! jumped the post and battery is good. Running board lights work and no juice anywhere else except two little red lights on dash that are comming on when you open the drivers door. Also there is a humming noise comming from the dash as well. checked grounds and seem ok Any help?

could this be the temperature control switch

I replaced a new battery in my c240 mercedes and signal lights, fuel
tank will not open , backtrunk release etc all not working.

Can someone give me the answer to this problem.

Engine runs rough at start up, check engine light comes on, sometimes flashing. Dealer findings are misfire or dirty fuel injectors. Just had spark plugs, wire and coil packs replaced in July '10. Problem still occurring about every 3 months.