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lately car is either rattling or shaking upon at park at red light or parking but while driving car is smooth !! why?

At any time, day or night, whether engine is cold or warmed to operational temperature, whenever the truck is moving, this noise occurs. Its not always constant, but rather mostly broken into inconsistent intervals of serveral seconds. When I touch the brake pedal (whether or not any actual braking or slowing), the noise abates for several seconds, then continues as described. So my mind leads me to vacuum booster on the power-assist braking assembly, or perhaps the turbo blower. I visually checked, but all appears normal. Odometer reads 155k miles. Serpentine belt appears in good shape. Performance is normal, nothing indicates a problem, except this noise.

my 1989 cadillac eldorado has 4.5 engine that seems to get hot very quickly and the idle run at 1000 or better when the car is in park.the driver information come on saying coolant fan fault when i check the reading the temperture is at like 224 or 226 sometimes it goes little higher and the stop engine light comes on. after all that the information center starts reading the temperture is 185 or 190 which should be normal. but when turn the car off sometime it doesnt start back up? can anyone help me with this?

Car is in my garage and will not come out of park. All other functions appear normal.

Ive got two wires under the manifold that burned. I need to know where they tie in. I've done everything short of pulling the intake to try find the other end. I don't have much to go on except thje truck will not run and the wires made my tach and speedometer jump eratically the popped a fuse. Then caught on fire diesel spill helped that.anyway The truck has a new pump and fuel pumps and relays now. Been chasing this ghst sometime now. Would intermittantly die and maay or may noy start. I'm hoping that the wire short has been the prob. all along

I want to change my waterpump on my 1997 mazda 626 2.0 L but don't know how or what it takes to change it. What are the steps to do this?

I can't find anyone to tell me what this code means
It states loss of serial communication between modules.

This is the only code that appears. The car runs and shifts properly.

i cant seem to get my cam sprocket marks lined up with block marks what am i doing wrong? i have a brand new timing kit. i get it to run but i have to keep the gas on it or else it dies.

I am looking for the fuel pump on my 98 528i. Some are telling me it is in the fuel tank, but it looks like it may be under the car, near the left front tire by the fuel filter. Which is it?

I bought a used 2002 Nissan sentra B15 automatic transmission for Christmas. It was given to me after it was fully painted until the third week of January. Since then I have had problems with the car when in drive or reverse it all of a sudden turns off when you press the brake and come to a halt. Three mechanics have seen it and I'm still not paying the last past to the guy that sold it to me because of this problem.
1. The guy that sold it to me took it to his mechanic were all the injectors were cleaned.
2. I still had the problem and then took it to my mechanic. He changed the positioning sensor which is very specific for these types of cars. He then replaced the gasoline injector pump with a brand new Bosch type pump which is located inside the fuel tank. And the last thing he did was change the catalytic muffler which he says that this type of Sentra is unique and carries 2. One on the exhaust pipe, and one right in the motor.
I picked up the car this weekend and it no longer is shaking when i come to a stop. The ride and the motor noise is smoother, but once I have been driving for 10 minutes it suddenly dies on me for no apparent reason on a red light or stop sign. It even dies on me in reverse. It sounds to me electrical or it's not receiving enough gas through the chambers or pistons. Both mechanics have told me that the 4 spark plugs are fine and the there quality is superior made out of Iridium?
Please help me. Buying my first car has been a nightmare due to what seems a simple dumb problem to fix.

everytime i try and start the car

Belt does not completly

i took my car to a local shop because the check engine light is on they told it was a small evap leak is it somehing easy to fix and is it expensive

Audio books keep moving forward when the player or car is turned off so you have to search for where the book should be every time you start up the car. This is caused by the fade feature that started in 2009. Dealership can't fix this problem and refuses to give me another CD player. I almost hit a mail box when searching for where the book should be while I was driving. Dealership claims dealer representive contacted engineers and there is no software fix available. No other car we have ever owned has this problem. We have owned Fords ad Honda's all of the CD players stop when turned off.
Please help.